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Old May 19, 2015 | 02:23 PM
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I have a 2012 GS,bought at 17K miles, now have 24K on the C6. Great car, and haven't had any issues.

Just had my first wheel alignment and balancing checked by a Firestone dealer I trust. Dealer reported that my left rear wheel is slightly bent. Saw this by wobble on balance check. Dlr said this is slight, shouldn't affect handling, but may affect tie wear. Michelin tires with 8K on them don't show unusual wear.

Chrome Wheels are pristine, with no apparent damage. I've been to 145mph and no felt vibrations.

I'm past factory warranty. Does anyone know if there is an issue with 2012 chrome wheels? Any factory recalls? I searched for bent wheel, and didn't find anything.

I may ignore this, as it doesn't seem to have any noticeable effect. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks
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Old May 19, 2015 | 02:29 PM
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If you can't feel it at hwy speeds don't worry about it. I had a bent rim and felt it at 30 and above. Bought a new one, and new tires.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 02:34 PM
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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If you can see a wobble on the balancing machine, then regardless of whether you can feel any vibration, I would strongly recommend that you get the wheel straightened. Do an internet search for wheel repair shops in your area. And notwithstanding another posted comment, the wheel is "broke" if you can see the wobble.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave S
If you can see a wobble on the balancing machine, then regardless of whether you can feel any vibration, I would strongly recommend that you get the wheel straightened. Do an internet search for wheel repair shops in your area. And notwithstanding another posted comment, the wheel is "broke" if you can see the wobble.
I agree...it will also affect the life of the wheel bearing.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 04:03 PM
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Call me a worrier, but I'd side with caution and agree that no wheel is supposed to wobble. Period. You can decide to do whatever you want with it, but I'd get it taken care of if it was mine.

Recalls, not that I recall reading about (no pun). Anyone can easily bend a wheel touching a curb just so, going over railroad tracks, hitting a bump in the right (wrong) way, etc.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 05:03 PM
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I'd have a wheel repair shop take a look at it. There's probably one in your area somewhere.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 05:17 PM
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a slight wobble won't cost much to fix. under a hundred bucks.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrodln
a slight wobble won't cost much to fix. under a hundred bucks.
Ditto, get the rim trued, and keep the information; since its very easy to bend a Vet rim on even a small pot hole, as well as have it re straightened.

P.S, Find is strange that the tire shop did not sugest that the rim be straightened, since most of them have a repair shop that straighten rims for them (most are mobile services that will come to the shop to straight the rim there).
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Old May 19, 2015 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Ditto, get the rim trued, and keep the information; since its very easy to bend a Vet rim on even a small pot hole, as well as have it re straightened.

P.S, Find is strange that the tire shop did not sugest that the rim be straightened, since most of them have a repair shop that straighten rims for them (most are mobile services that will come to the shop to straight the rim there).
Thanks for all the responses. I'll find a straightener, starting with the alignment shop.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 10:26 PM
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GM's official position is that aluminum wheels should not be straightened, only replaced.

It's easy to say they are just trying to sell more wheels, or it's easy to say that aluminum is more prone to cracking and so you really should replace instead of straightening.

I've got stock painted wheels, so replacements in good condition are cheap. Chrome, not so easy or cheap.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 10:46 PM
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First pull the wheel to check for foreign junk on the wheel mounting surfaces. If you found crap, clean it off and remount the wheel. Check for lateral runout of the tire by positioning the dial indicator to the last smooth tire surface closest to the tread. The spec is .060".

If the previous check passes, then check the wheel off the car for lateral runout. The spec is .030" You can also check the tire off the car for lateral runout The spec is .050"

If you don't have a dial indicator, you can still do a rough check by mounting your rear wheel on the front spindle and with the tire off the ground, place a block of something fairly heavy next to the tire near the tread (as above) and rotate the tire. The tire should push the block away if it's not 100% true. Then find the spot on rotation where the tire touches the block and rotate the wheel 180 degrees. If you can drop a penny between the tire and the block at that point, it's at least out of spec and should be more thoroughly checked with a dial indicator. If a dime easily falls through, it's more likely the problem was dirt on the wheel mounting surface or a slight mis-fit on the balancer when the wobble was first noticed.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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If the tire store you trust said leave it alone then leave it alone. With the roads today you ll just be buying or repairing rims constantly.

If you can't feel it and the tire expert in your area said leave it alone....leave it alone.

Buying new rims for a little run out that's within gm guideline tolerance I think your setting your self up for ongoing ridiculous expenses..

If the runout was beyond gm guidelines then yes I would buy new wheels...


Within guidelines ....just enjoy your car as is....

No vibration at all? Leave it alone.

I tend to buy practically new preowned take off rims every time or every other time I buy tires...the roads around my neck of the woods do eventually take the wheels beyond gm tolerance levels...

Chrome rims are not on my list for just this reason....they look good but can not as easily be repaired in my opinion.

Leave well enough alone...jmo
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Old May 20, 2015 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by JerriVette
If the tire store you trust said leave it alone then leave it alone. With the roads today you ll just be buying or repairing rims constantly.

If you can't feel it and the tire expert in your area said leave it alone....leave it alone.

Buying new rims for a little run out that's within gm guideline tolerance I think your setting your self up for ongoing ridiculous expenses..

If the runout was beyond gm guidelines then yes I would buy new wheels...


Within guidelines ....just enjoy your car as is....

No vibration at all? Leave it alone.

I tend to buy practically new preowned take off rims every time or every other time I buy tires...the roads around my neck of the woods do eventually take the wheels beyond gm tolerance levels...

Chrome rims are not on my list for just this reason....they look good but can not as easily be repaired in my opinion.

Leave well enough alone...jmo
Jerri and others, thanks for your comments and advice.

I don't have the equipment to remove a wheel w/o risk. (I do change my fluids, though, on friend's drive-on lift - that and cleaning is the extent of my mechanic work on this car)

The Balancing shop (local Firestone) had the wheel off the car, and checked for dirt; also said it's the wheel, not the tire (Michelins). Unfortunately, I wasn't available to see for myself.

The tire has about 8K miles, and didn't show abnormal wear, which leads me to suspect don't fix it may be the way to go.

I've talked with the recommended wheel shop, who will check both the wheel and tire (separately, off the car) and make a recommendation. Wheel shop said if wheel can't be straightened, or after attempted straighten, isn't in spec, there's no charge.

I'm not trying to be **** about this. I occasionally drive brief bursts over 100, but I want some piece of mind. And, I don't want to replace the wheel, unless absolutely necessary.

I'll report back on what I learn - maybe this experience will help someone else.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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Had the same thing in a BMW. Their shop recommended a new wheel only. The service advisor did say try the low profile runflats with their stiff sidewalls combined wuth soft aluminum alloy wheels cause more bent rims now then he ever saw years ago. Good luck.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 01:17 PM
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If you decide you need a new wheel I have a brand new Grandsport Speedline chrome rear wheel in the box for sale.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RC4G
If you decide you need a new wheel I have a brand new Grandsport Speedline chrome rear wheel in the box for sale.
^ there you go.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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When I was younger I did my time in tire shops. Several. I don't think I EVER balanced a single wheel and tire that didn't wobble a little. Having OCD this always bothered me but every time I asked about it, they said it was normal and you would always see a little bit of wobble. For what its worth guys.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KalonBarnett
When I was younger I did my time in tire shops. Several. I don't think I EVER balanced a single wheel and tire that didn't wobble a little. Having OCD this always bothered me but every time I asked about it, they said it was normal and you would always see a little bit of wobble. For what its worth guys.
Just for information's sake, about when was that? If it was back in the steel-wheel days, I'd say that's a different time. Today's components in suspensions are somewhat different and, to some extent, a little more finely-tuned. And the wheels are a little more sensitive, too, such as in the post above yours by csf.
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Old May 20, 2015 | 04:23 PM
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I had my bent rim straightened by ALLOY WHEEL repair.$100. 2005 base coupe.

Discount tire rebalanced all 4 after installing new TPMS. They said the bent rim did balance out but the runout was significant. No vibration up to 70mph, but it still bothered me.
So, I met repair guys at Mercedes dealer (they travel around and try to do several wheels at a time for dealers) and in 45 minutes they had the wheel back on .........runout was .020 after repair. Clever how they did it.
Dave
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