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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 07:00 AM
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Default Spark plug wires

Have an faint intermittent miss at part throttle so I figured the car was ready for fresh plugs which I change out annually anyway. We're heading up to Watkins Glen( 5 hr drive each way)in two weeks for the race so I want the car tip top. After changing the plugs the tiny miss is still there. No codes so now I'm going to swap out the plug wires. They're the original wires and the car has 40K miles on it so it's about time for them also.
The car is an 06 has LG long tubes and a vortech T-trim. What plug wires are you guys using? Where are you getting them? I'd like to order tomorrow and have them within the two weeks.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:49 AM
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I ordered my MSD wires from WCC (forum vendor ) West Coast Corvette. But you can get them most anywhere. Don't forget a dab of dielectric grease inside the boot to help slip on. And make sure you hear and feel the connector "snap" on.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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Good advice.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:22 AM
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I put on some MSD wires as well when I did my cam/header swap. Happy with them so far.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:45 AM
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Just took a ride to my local Chevy dealer, they want $150 + tax for a set of OEM wires! Must be 14k gold core. FU Chevrolet.

The MSD sounds good, you guys with headers, did you order the straight or singled versions and did you get the insulator socks? Thanks.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 12:07 PM
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I'm running straight boots. I just pulled them all off a few days ago and there were no burns or cracking.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by NYC6
Have an faint intermittent miss at part throttle so I figured the car was ready for fresh plugs which I change out annually anyway. We're heading up to Watkins Glen( 5 hr drive each way)in two weeks for the race so I want the car tip top. After changing the plugs the tiny miss is still there. No codes so now I'm going to swap out the plug wires. They're the original wires and the car has 40K miles on it so it's about time for them also.
The car is an 06 has LG long tubes and a vortech T-trim. What plug wires are you guys using? Where are you getting them? I'd like to order tomorrow and have them within the two weeks.

Hmmmm. A miss should really set a code.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by scottaolsen
Hmmmm. A miss should really set a code.
It's very slight and intermittent only a mid throttle. It stumbles just a bit and hard to pick up. Having had the car since new(06) I can feel it.
I tried to make it code but it won't flash for me. I hope it's a wire(s) and not coil.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ttx350z
I'm running straight boots. I just pulled them all off a few days ago and there were no burns or cracking.
Thanks.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NYC6
It's very slight and intermittent only a mid throttle. It stumbles just a bit and hard to pick up. Having had the car since new(06) I can feel it.
I tried to make it code but it won't flash for me. I hope it's a wire(s) and not coil.

Engine dead cold!!!!!
Pull the fuel rail covers,
Pull the spark plugs
Pull the spark plug wires.
Unhook the spark plug wires coil connectors.

Start with the plugs, hence clean them and check the gaps (should be .040). Now install them, and it up to you if you want to use anti-seize grease on the plug threads or not. The spark plugs get torqued to 11ftlbs only, and again, do not pull or install the spark plugs unless the motor is dead cold to room temp!!!


On the plug wires, and the coil sockets and connectors, break out some spray electrical contact cleaner, and clean all the connectors. Also, take a multi meter to them to check resitance across the wires.

Now a dab of dielectric grease on the coil connectors, on the plug connects both ends, and inside the the plug boots, then reinstall all the connectors. The coil connectors are straight forward, but on the spark plug wires, make sure that you feel and hear the connectors click in place as you are installing the boot ends in place.

Now with the spray contact cleaner still in hand, pull the MAF and clean it as well. Only use a dab of dielectric grease on the wire connector to the socket, and leave the inside parts of the MAF bone dry.

Also to point out here, the stumble/mis-fire could be coming from an after market air filter system!!!! All the after market companies love to go on and on about how they system will outflow the stock air filter (which the stock filter system is already out flowing the motor already), but what is missing, the after market system has to do that without creating disturbances to the air flow across the MAF a well!!!

So if the problem is a MAF one, let just hope that it a over lubed air filter that has fouled the MAF sensor only (what cleaning it will resolve).

P.S, if the car has been turned, then the tune may need to be checked as well. Forget DIC fault codes, and just pull a data log on the car to look at the knock sensor read outs instead. With the temps getting hotter, and E-10 now common place, could be a problem with either spark advance, or injector lean out problems for mid throttle caused by the E-10 in hotter weathers.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Engine dead cold!!!!!
Pull the fuel rail covers,
Pull the spark plugs
Pull the spark plug wires.
Unhook the spark plug wires coil connectors.

Start with the plugs, hence clean them and check the gaps (should be .040). Now install them, and it up to you if you want to use anti-seize grease on the plug threads or not. The spark plugs get torqued to 11ftlbs only, and again, do not pull or install the spark plugs unless the motor is dead cold to room temp!!!


On the plug wires, and the coil sockets and connectors, break out some spray electrical contact cleaner, and clean all the connectors. Also, take a multi meter to them to check resitance across the wires.

Now a dab of dielectric grease on the coil connectors, on the plug connects both ends, and inside the the plug boots, then reinstall all the connectors. The coil connectors are straight forward, but on the spark plug wires, make sure that you feel and hear the connectors click in place as you are installing the boot ends in place.

Now with the spray contact cleaner still in hand, pull the MAF and clean it as well. Only use a dab of dielectric grease on the wire connector to the socket, and leave the inside parts of the MAF bone dry.

Also to point out here, the stumble/mis-fire could be coming from an after market air filter system!!!! All the after market companies love to go on and on about how they system will outflow the stock air filter (which the stock filter system is already out flowing the motor already), but what is missing, the after market system has to do that without creating disturbances to the air flow across the MAF a well!!!

So if the problem is a MAF one, let just hope that it a over lubed air filter that has fouled the MAF sensor only (what cleaning it will resolve).

P.S, if the car has been turned, then the tune may need to be checked as well. Forget DIC fault codes, and just pull a data log on the car to look at the knock sensor read outs instead. With the temps getting hotter, and E-10 now common place, could be a problem with either spark advance, or injector lean out problems for mid throttle caused by the E-10 in hotter weathers.
Boosted engine gap is usually .32 - .35 gap.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 08:26 PM
  #12  
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I just installed a set of Taylor 79613 409 Pro Race LS wires and they fit great. $66 at amazon.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 08:28 PM
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Normally you would get a code for this, but I had a similar situation with my Cadillac and it ended up being a coil pack. Good luck.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike's LS3
Boosted engine gap is usually .32 - .35 gap.
Missed the part about boosted, and depending on his boost levels and current gap, could be too wide and blowing out the spark.
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Missed the part about boosted, and depending on his boost levels and current gap, could be too wide and blowing out the spark.
I figured you did because your posts are very thorough.
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 11:55 AM
  #16  
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My 2012 Grand Sport had a slight miss from day one. It never set a code and the dealer was quick to point out that all corvettes do this. I have my own Tech 2 and showed them the misfire display and they said it did not set a code there was nothing they would do. They did not see a problem and did not try to correct the problem. I pulled the spark plugs and number five did not look as clean as the rest. Checked the plug wire and it had excessive resistance and I replaced it with a used GM plug wire from the race car just to verify and it confirmed the wire was bad. It drove like a completely different car, sound and smooth to drive. It used to buck in 2nd gear (25mph school zone) from the misfire and now it's gone. I did go back to the dealer and they told me that a bad plug wire would set a code. They did not care if the car ran better, gas mileage up 3 mpg to over 20 in town driving and implied it was normal for the high performance engines to run rough. Strange thing is my LS7 runs smooth so I must be mistaken thinking that was a performance.

Lesson learned is check plug wire resistance and do not let appearance determine serviceability. The dealer was Landers Chevrolet in Huntsville Al.
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 12:26 AM
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So I have to ask.....the car is an '06 and you have had it since new, so have you actually changed the plugs 8 or 9 times in 40,000 miles?
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Sorry, late to the thread. I could be wrong, but over the years, haven't there been some issues w. MSD wires---something about length or some such?
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