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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 06:49 AM
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Need ideas! After installing my HUD the dash doesn't work. HUD is working perfectly, however dash is dead, no lights, & no gauges. Rechecked plugs, they are all seated perfectly. Is there a power wire or fuse blown? I have looked for fuse but can't find any that say dash. Any input would be apprectiated.

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Rich
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 63Korvette
Need ideas! After installing my HUD the dash doesn't work. HUD is working perfectly, however dash is dead, no lights, & no gauges. Rechecked plugs, they are all seated perfectly. Is there a power wire or fuse blown? I have looked for fuse but can't find any that say dash. Any input would be apprectiated.

Thanks
Rich
It is easy to pinch wires when putting it back together. Check fuses, look at owners manual, it might give you an idea what fuse for dash. Lot of nerve to pull dash! Not sure about c6, but most were labeled (instr). Connectors too, if you do not hear a solid click, they are not seated properly.
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 09:11 AM
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Here is an additional link of fuses it is for a 2005, but it might help.
http://www.costartech.com/pb/Vehicle...02005-fuse.pdf
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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Power for the dash computer comes from a 15A fuse inside the BCM computer. But you said the HUD is working and power for that not only comes from the same fuse but also from the same connector on the BCM. Therefor the only thing left is connector C2 pin 3 on the Instrument panel. That is one of the 16 pin connectors. Looking into the female end with the latch on top it is the third from the right on top with the RD/WH wire.
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 12:05 PM
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Thanks for info hopefully one of these are the problem. And by the way much easier to remove 2010 dash as opposed to 1963.
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 05:20 PM
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Heard that in some instances of having the dash apart some of the pins in the various connectors come out when you pry the connector apart.....
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 06:09 AM
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Well got home last night and hopped right on it. Unwrapped wires, recrimped all of the wires. And there was lights. Unwrapped second set and found that I must have crimped the grey wire poorly and cut it in half. After splicing it there was gauges. Want to thank everyone that replyed to this post.
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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You found it.

But if you are using crimp connectors, then there is a significant probability you will have more issues in the future. I would always solder connections in areas that are hard to access.

From the people who make crimp connectors - http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/TM-640160065.pdf
Today, many OEM companies are using Statistical Process Control (SPC) to continuously improve their crimp terminations. Crimp termination is a complex process and to ensure consistent quality it is necessary to understand the variability and inter-relational interactions that the technology involves.

Without a thorough understanding of the crimping process, and all the factors that can affect it, the result may not meet expectations. The three key elements in the crimping process are the terminal, the wire, and the tooling.
Vibration will loosen crimp connectors that are not done right.
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by FortMorganAl
You found it.

But if you are using crimp connectors, then there is a significant probability you will have more issues in the future. I would always solder connections in areas that are hard to access.

From the people who make crimp connectors - http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/TM-640160065.pdf
Vibration will loosen crimp connectors that are not done right.
I was thinking the same thing, never liked crimp connectors, temporary fix at best. Fortunately his connections are not exposed to weather. Eventually they will cause problems.
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