Drivers door latch replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 4
Drivers door latch replacement
Folks,
This is a follow up on my previous post. I definitely need to replace the door latch. On line they are about$170. Anybody done this? I saw a video and it doesn't look too hard but the video didn't show how to remove the trim . The piece you need to remove on the door pillar is below the piece above it and below the piece that runs along the sill. I tried some gentle prying here and there but nothing is unsnapping like it is coming off. I don't want to break anything. Like I said the latch replacement looks doable If I can just get the trim off to get at it.
Thanks, Dave
This is a follow up on my previous post. I definitely need to replace the door latch. On line they are about$170. Anybody done this? I saw a video and it doesn't look too hard but the video didn't show how to remove the trim . The piece you need to remove on the door pillar is below the piece above it and below the piece that runs along the sill. I tried some gentle prying here and there but nothing is unsnapping like it is coming off. I don't want to break anything. Like I said the latch replacement looks doable If I can just get the trim off to get at it.
Thanks, Dave
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 462
From: Southern Utah
Others who know more will chime in, but it looks to me like it starts with removal of the two torx screws that hold the latch mechanism. I am not seeing where trim is involved at all. It is not a part that commonly goes bad, but a few here have done the replacement...hopefully one of them will reply here.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 4
Yes the 2 torx screws remove the latch but you need to remove the trim to actually get the latch out and disconnect the wiring and the 2 mechanical pulls and reconnect the wiring and pulls. I don't think you can get the latch out without removing the trim.
Dave
Dave
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 268
Likes: 13
From: Palmdale Ca
Just found this on another thread. The first 3 steps cover the panel removal.
This was written by BullittEV:
Once determined the door latch is the issue:
1. You need to remove the door sill trim on the rear end (closer to the latch, where it overlaps with the door trim itself, a plastic piece that runs up the door jam.)
2. Once you lift up that door sill trim, you will start to see where the tension is at, it's a pronged-type tab, you need to keep pulling up on it with one flathead, and using another flathead and pushing in on the metal tab until it completely comes out, you'll know it.
3. This will allow you the room and maneuverability to now slide down and out the door trim and give you access to the door latch.
4. Once the door trim is out, you will see a covering of the hole that is glued, just pry it off with your flathead.
5. Now go and unscrew the two torx screws from the door latch from the door itself, (not sure of the size)
6. Now you can manuever the bad door latch assembly out into the cabin, from here, the electrical tab holding in the wiring is pulled up away from the tabs sticking out on the bottom and it will pull the wiring out. Now test it on your new latch and make sure it works.
7. Now theres a small cover on the old door latch assembly, you need to use a smaller torx head on two of those screws, and that uncovers the mechanical switches(for the trunk and door release)
8. Take these mechanical switches and put them exactly on your new latch the way they were on the old one. Screw the cover back on (this can get tricky, but just wiggle around with it)
9. MAKE SURE THE LATCH OPENS WITH THE MECHANICAL SWITCHES, <B> BUT</B> WHEN YOU CLOSE THE LATCH IT DOESNT COME UNLOCKED WITH THE PUSH OF A FINGER.
10. Once everything is good just reinsert the way you took it off, including the door sills/trims.
Thank you BullittEV for taking the time to write this up.
This was written by BullittEV:
Once determined the door latch is the issue:
1. You need to remove the door sill trim on the rear end (closer to the latch, where it overlaps with the door trim itself, a plastic piece that runs up the door jam.)
2. Once you lift up that door sill trim, you will start to see where the tension is at, it's a pronged-type tab, you need to keep pulling up on it with one flathead, and using another flathead and pushing in on the metal tab until it completely comes out, you'll know it.
3. This will allow you the room and maneuverability to now slide down and out the door trim and give you access to the door latch.
4. Once the door trim is out, you will see a covering of the hole that is glued, just pry it off with your flathead.
5. Now go and unscrew the two torx screws from the door latch from the door itself, (not sure of the size)
6. Now you can manuever the bad door latch assembly out into the cabin, from here, the electrical tab holding in the wiring is pulled up away from the tabs sticking out on the bottom and it will pull the wiring out. Now test it on your new latch and make sure it works.
7. Now theres a small cover on the old door latch assembly, you need to use a smaller torx head on two of those screws, and that uncovers the mechanical switches(for the trunk and door release)
8. Take these mechanical switches and put them exactly on your new latch the way they were on the old one. Screw the cover back on (this can get tricky, but just wiggle around with it)
9. MAKE SURE THE LATCH OPENS WITH THE MECHANICAL SWITCHES, <B> BUT</B> WHEN YOU CLOSE THE LATCH IT DOESNT COME UNLOCKED WITH THE PUSH OF A FINGER.
10. Once everything is good just reinsert the way you took it off, including the door sills/trims.
Thank you BullittEV for taking the time to write this up.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,374
Likes: 62
Just found this on another thread. The first 3 steps cover the panel removal.
This was written by BullittEV:
Once determined the door latch is the issue:
1. You need to remove the door sill trim on the rear end (closer to the latch, where it overlaps with the door trim itself, a plastic piece that runs up the door jam.)
2. Once you lift up that door sill trim, you will start to see where the tension is at, it's a pronged-type tab, you need to keep pulling up on it with one flathead, and using another flathead and pushing in on the metal tab until it completely comes out, you'll know it.
3. This will allow you the room and maneuverability to now slide down and out the door trim and give you access to the door latch.
4. Once the door trim is out, you will see a covering of the hole that is glued, just pry it off with your flathead.
5. Now go and unscrew the two torx screws from the door latch from the door itself, (not sure of the size)
6. Now you can manuever the bad door latch assembly out into the cabin, from here, the electrical tab holding in the wiring is pulled up away from the tabs sticking out on the bottom and it will pull the wiring out. Now test it on your new latch and make sure it works.
7. Now theres a small cover on the old door latch assembly, you need to use a smaller torx head on two of those screws, and that uncovers the mechanical switches(for the trunk and door release)
8. Take these mechanical switches and put them exactly on your new latch the way they were on the old one. Screw the cover back on (this can get tricky, but just wiggle around with it)
9. MAKE SURE THE LATCH OPENS WITH THE MECHANICAL SWITCHES, <B> BUT</B> WHEN YOU CLOSE THE LATCH IT DOESNT COME UNLOCKED WITH THE PUSH OF A FINGER.
10. Once everything is good just reinsert the way you took it off, including the door sills/trims.
Thank you BullittEV for taking the time to write this up.
This was written by BullittEV:
Once determined the door latch is the issue:
1. You need to remove the door sill trim on the rear end (closer to the latch, where it overlaps with the door trim itself, a plastic piece that runs up the door jam.)
2. Once you lift up that door sill trim, you will start to see where the tension is at, it's a pronged-type tab, you need to keep pulling up on it with one flathead, and using another flathead and pushing in on the metal tab until it completely comes out, you'll know it.
3. This will allow you the room and maneuverability to now slide down and out the door trim and give you access to the door latch.
4. Once the door trim is out, you will see a covering of the hole that is glued, just pry it off with your flathead.
5. Now go and unscrew the two torx screws from the door latch from the door itself, (not sure of the size)
6. Now you can manuever the bad door latch assembly out into the cabin, from here, the electrical tab holding in the wiring is pulled up away from the tabs sticking out on the bottom and it will pull the wiring out. Now test it on your new latch and make sure it works.
7. Now theres a small cover on the old door latch assembly, you need to use a smaller torx head on two of those screws, and that uncovers the mechanical switches(for the trunk and door release)
8. Take these mechanical switches and put them exactly on your new latch the way they were on the old one. Screw the cover back on (this can get tricky, but just wiggle around with it)
9. MAKE SURE THE LATCH OPENS WITH THE MECHANICAL SWITCHES, <B> BUT</B> WHEN YOU CLOSE THE LATCH IT DOESNT COME UNLOCKED WITH THE PUSH OF A FINGER.
10. Once everything is good just reinsert the way you took it off, including the door sills/trims.
Thank you BullittEV for taking the time to write this up.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,374
Likes: 62
Thanks Augie, Mine is on the way as well.. I am more concerned about removing the trim than the actual latch itself.. I have watched the videos, but some are lacking detail.. I am a pretty good DIY'r but would rather not break anything.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 268
Likes: 13
From: Palmdale Ca
LS14ME2 I just finished my latch replacement. It took me about an hour (55 min to be exact). And like you the only item I was worried about was the trim. I used the Replacement Steps listed about and they worked pretty well for me.
However I would add a step prior to Step 1, Apply tape over the door sill paint and over the carpet behind the seat (near the trim panel).
Reason: You need to pry against the paint while removing the sill trim. I didn’t remove my sill trim completely, just the aft 3 clips. The very aft one is also common to the door trim panel, so you have to pry both the sill and door panel up to see the clip.
In Step 4 you remove the plastic weather cover that is over the access hole. This cover is held in place with a very sticky gummy putty. It could be hard to remove if it gets on your carpet so I suggest protecting the carpet with tape.
I don’t like removing trim and haven’t had a lot of luck in the past. But I didn’t brake anything this time! I used a putty knife to lift the sill and a small common screwdriver to push the clip release in, then applied a little more force to the putty knife and the clips came out of their holes. Just like in the video.
The door panel trim takes a little effort to slide down. There is a plastic support that is glued on I believe, and if the panel has never been off this bond has to be broken. It didn’t take a lot of effort to separate mine, but it will take less next time. Just pull it towards the center of the car and then down.
Last small item, after you have the new latch hooked up completely and are ready to insert it back in the door, insert the top in first.
My door works better than ever now. Good luck!
augie
However I would add a step prior to Step 1, Apply tape over the door sill paint and over the carpet behind the seat (near the trim panel).
Reason: You need to pry against the paint while removing the sill trim. I didn’t remove my sill trim completely, just the aft 3 clips. The very aft one is also common to the door trim panel, so you have to pry both the sill and door panel up to see the clip.
In Step 4 you remove the plastic weather cover that is over the access hole. This cover is held in place with a very sticky gummy putty. It could be hard to remove if it gets on your carpet so I suggest protecting the carpet with tape.
I don’t like removing trim and haven’t had a lot of luck in the past. But I didn’t brake anything this time! I used a putty knife to lift the sill and a small common screwdriver to push the clip release in, then applied a little more force to the putty knife and the clips came out of their holes. Just like in the video.
The door panel trim takes a little effort to slide down. There is a plastic support that is glued on I believe, and if the panel has never been off this bond has to be broken. It didn’t take a lot of effort to separate mine, but it will take less next time. Just pull it towards the center of the car and then down.
Last small item, after you have the new latch hooked up completely and are ready to insert it back in the door, insert the top in first.
My door works better than ever now. Good luck!
augie
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,374
Likes: 62
LS14ME2 I just finished my latch replacement. It took me about an hour (55 min to be exact). And like you the only item I was worried about was the trim. I used the Replacement Steps listed about and they worked pretty well for me.
However I would add a step prior to Step 1, Apply tape over the door sill paint and over the carpet behind the seat (near the trim panel).
Reason: You need to pry against the paint while removing the sill trim. I didn’t remove my sill trim completely, just the aft 3 clips. The very aft one is also common to the door trim panel, so you have to pry both the sill and door panel up to see the clip.
In Step 4 you remove the plastic weather cover that is over the access hole. This cover is held in place with a very sticky gummy putty. It could be hard to remove if it gets on your carpet so I suggest protecting the carpet with tape.
I don’t like removing trim and haven’t had a lot of luck in the past. But I didn’t brake anything this time! I used a putty knife to lift the sill and a small common screwdriver to push the clip release in, then applied a little more force to the putty knife and the clips came out of their holes. Just like in the video.
The door panel trim takes a little effort to slide down. There is a plastic support that is glued on I believe, and if the panel has never been off this bond has to be broken. It didn’t take a lot of effort to separate mine, but it will take less next time. Just pull it towards the center of the car and then down.
Last small item, after you have the new latch hooked up completely and are ready to insert it back in the door, insert the top in first.
My door works better than ever now. Good luck!
augie
However I would add a step prior to Step 1, Apply tape over the door sill paint and over the carpet behind the seat (near the trim panel).
Reason: You need to pry against the paint while removing the sill trim. I didn’t remove my sill trim completely, just the aft 3 clips. The very aft one is also common to the door trim panel, so you have to pry both the sill and door panel up to see the clip.
In Step 4 you remove the plastic weather cover that is over the access hole. This cover is held in place with a very sticky gummy putty. It could be hard to remove if it gets on your carpet so I suggest protecting the carpet with tape.
I don’t like removing trim and haven’t had a lot of luck in the past. But I didn’t brake anything this time! I used a putty knife to lift the sill and a small common screwdriver to push the clip release in, then applied a little more force to the putty knife and the clips came out of their holes. Just like in the video.
The door panel trim takes a little effort to slide down. There is a plastic support that is glued on I believe, and if the panel has never been off this bond has to be broken. It didn’t take a lot of effort to separate mine, but it will take less next time. Just pull it towards the center of the car and then down.
Last small item, after you have the new latch hooked up completely and are ready to insert it back in the door, insert the top in first.
My door works better than ever now. Good luck!
augie
Door works like new, first push!! My wife is really excited as she really did not enjoy driving the car with having to get in from the hatch.
If you were around, I would get us a beer and admire our work !
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Where can I get the driver door latch C6 corvette 2007
Hey guys, I started having trouble with closing my door. I figure it’s the door latch giving me issues but I can’t seem to find it anywhere. Any ideas were I can get/order one? And around how much the door latch assembly goes for?
Thanks!
Thanks!