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Battery/Electrical issue help

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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Default Battery/Electrical issue help

I'd appreciate any assistance you can provide. 2006 Vert. 4.5 yr old battery which is the AC Delco 6 yr model. When attempting to start it up my wife heard a vacuum sound from the passenger side of the engine compartment (could have been the sound of one of the large fuses or just from the cold air filters - I can't hear very well so using her opinion). It exhibits dead battery symptoms. I attempted to jump it and it won't turn over but I was able to have some electrical power. Charging overnight on the tender only produced flashing green with red on the charger and when trying to open the door all went black - popped it open from the trunk. The driver's window would inch down on it's own though no other power works outside of the hood light.

I'd hate to have it towed in if it's only the battery or a fuse. Any ideas which fuse to check and on the box top fuses how do you know if it's blown?

I don't want it out overnight if possible so I'd be thankful for any quick responses. Thanks much in advance !
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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Pull the battery take it to local parts store or Wal Mart, Sears or dealer and have them load test it, then just replace it. I got a new Delco battery from the dealer but any high end battery will work. I would say about 95% that you have a bad battery.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:36 PM
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Sounds like nothing more than a dead battery to me. Simple fix with a new one.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Sounds like nothing more than a dead battery to me. Simple fix with a new one.
^^^^^ this. You've gotten good service from the OEM unit. Time for a new battery.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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Thanks all. Just changed the battery and I'm happy again. BTW, bought the OEM Delco for $110 at the local Chevy dealer.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:01 PM
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Could be an old battery that died, or a charging problem instead.


Start the car, let it idle, and start checking voltages with a multi meter.

The terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber cover is the positive terminal, and use the body of the alternator itself for the negative probe on the multi-meter set on 20V DC.

You should have around voltage around 14.6volts.

Next with the multi meter and the motor still running, check the battery voltage directly to the two battery lead terminals. Voltage should be down around .1V from the alternator voltage, so 14.5 is normal.

If the voltage is much lower, then use the positive lead terminal on the battery for positive on the probe, and use the body of the alternator for the ground source for the probe. If the voltage is back up to only .1V less, then the negative cable connected to the engine block needs to be pulled and cleaned.

If still low at the battery, then use the battery negative terminal, and connect to the back of the alternator post for positive instead. If the voltage is back up to less than .1 voltage less, then is the two positive terminals on the starter for the positive cables between the battery and the alternator, or the in line fuse from the alternator to the starter cable that has the problem instead.

Now inside the car, switch the DCI over to voltage, and it should be reading about .3V less instead. If much lower, then you have a problem from the cable connected to the battery to the engine fuse block, the fuse block connections, or the ground in the car back to the frame ground off the battery cable.

So the break down with the car idling, alternator reading should be around 14.6, battery should be around .1v less, and the DIC should be reading around .3v less if all is fine with the charging/electrical system.

If your readings are much lower, then you have a problem in the charging system/wires that need to be resolved, or you chance just draining the battery dead from not correctly charging instead.


If the charging system voltages are fine, then is may be time to start checking for a voltage drain when the car is supposed to be in sleep mode. If you have Onstar, but on using it, chances are that is the problem with the voltage drain, and since it not in use, just disconnect the VCIM while putting a jumper across the GM data line wires so they still have continuity.

As for car left to sit without being run to charge the battery back up (car run for 15 mins or longer), if its going to be a few days or more, get it on the battery tender. Even in sleep mode, the car is still pulling power from the battery, and about 3 weeks is all it takes to drain the battery down so the car will not start on a perfectly working C6.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by richp5
Thanks all. Just changed the battery and I'm happy again. BTW, bought the OEM Delco for $110 at the local Chevy dealer.
Really? That's a good price ... did that include the remaining warranty you had? Last year when I replaced my battery, I called the dealer and they wanted almost $200, and another $80 to install. Obviously a ripoff.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RocketDawg
Really? That's a good price ... did that include the remaining warranty you had? Last year when I replaced my battery, I called the dealer and they wanted almost $200, and another $80 to install. Obviously a ripoff.
$280 for a battery change is just nuts. I can grab a decent battery from the local auto zone for a little more than $100 and install it myself.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 06:11 PM
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When in doubt,throw the battery out.
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 03:01 AM
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I got a good one at WalMart for $80, has worked for years.
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