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There has been a lot of discussion about how to do the squeaky top fix on C6 (and earlier) coupes. Most have to do with using some sort of lubricant. I've found that none of those fixes really work for long. I figured that if the top could not move with respect to the seals, it would not squeak, and that adding slippery stuff was making the problem worse. I've done just the opposite. I wiped all the slippery stuff off of the seals and the inside edge of the top with denatured alcohol. Then I took a small piece of 220 grit sandpaper on my finger tip and CAREFULLY took the shine off of the seals, where they touch the top. I did NOT sand them rough, only removed the shine. The squeaks are gone and it has been two months of summer and fall temps and 2000 miles of driving. If you need to shine up the seals for the occasional car show, the usual shiny stuff will still look just fine when you apply it. Just repeat the alcohol and sandpaper trick when you get tired of the squeaking.
I added silicone grease to the pins and rollers on my previous '07 coupe right after I bought it. It was still not squeaking/creaking when I got rid of it over 2 years later.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Grease works for me also. That's what GM recommends and I would certainly not want to sand the weatherstripping any more than it already gets. Any flexing that causes squeaking has a lot more force behind it than will be held back by simply roughing up the surface. If the squeak stops (which it will) by sanding, it is because the force has been transmitted to the internal structure of the seal which will eventually cause more deterioration. Grease allows the force to be absorbed by the grease and not the seal.
BTW, the recommended grease is SILICONE grease. If you don't want to pay a dealer's price it is also called dielectric grease for electronics. Oils such as vasoline or, horror of horrors, wheel grease, will cause the seal to deteriorate.
So Dielectric grease on the rearward pins combined with an o-ring at the base of the pin to make it a tighter fit works?
I see all of these 'fixes' listed but no explanation of what it includes.
Thanks
Rubber seals get lubed with a light coat of dielectric grease,
If your roof handles have the roller type clips, then C slips are used to wedge then tight to the side. When installing the C clips, remove the handles, and make sure to grease the handle bearing surfaces to the center post before you install them back on.
The roof post are checked to make sure that they are all still tight, and a O ring's is added to the the posts, and you can add in heat shrink tubing as well (so no metal to metal contact inside the sockets on the car from the roof posts,
C clips, O rings and shrink wrap for me. Cost was around $10 total and it took around 20 minutes to do both tops. Silent for 18 months now. I almost forgot that it was ever a problem.
Also replaced end links and axle nuts and my car is noise free.
I did the e clips... And no noise for about 2months.. But now its backs.. Soooo flipping annoying!! Gonna have to try the heat shrink, o-rings, and grease.
I did the e clips... And no noise for about 2months.. But now its backs.. Soooo flipping annoying!! Gonna have to try the heat shrink, o-rings, and grease.
If you tried the e-clips that means you have those little rollers. Those rollers were the culprit on mine. I used some STP oil additive (the most slippery lube on earth) and worked it in the rollers and their axle pins. No more noise! Really simple.
Yeah, I did the whole weather strip lubing thing, to no avail. It was just those darn little rollers doing a stick/slip deal as the body flexes. Sometimes we over-complicate the situation and the simple solutions elude us.
I put the little O-rings on 4 years ago and have had no noise since. It keeps the pins tighter in the socket. Didn't need to do any of the other stuff.
If you have the the rollers that turn, then you do not have the updated latches that was put on my 08 in July of 08.The rollers on the new latches have a flat spot on them and they do not turn. In post #9 shows the old style latches.
If you have the the rollers that turn, then you do not have the updated latches that was put on my 08 in July of 08.The rollers on the new latches have a flat spot on them and they do not turn. In post #9 shows the old style latches.
That is correct. But did that solve the problem? From what I've been hearing it did not. I see the OP has a 2010 GS. I could easily see the engineers not getting this right. The updated latches probably still have a stick/slip action going on in the same area and still making the popping/creaking noise. IDK. What I do know is mine was very annoying and I found an extremely simple and effective fix.
That is correct. But did that solve the problem? From what I've been hearing it did not. I see the OP has a 2010 GS. I could easily see the engineers not getting this right. The updated latches probably still have a stick/slip action going on in the same area and still making the popping/creaking noise. IDK. What I do know is mine was very annoying and I found an extremely simple and effective fix.
I never take my top off. About every 6 months I clean the plate where the latch roller lands at, and add some fresh grease.