Vibration
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Vibration
I have a 2005 vert with 40k miles. I get steering wheel vibration at 80+ mph. New tires, new drilled and slotted rotors, ceramic brakes and new ZR1 rims. Rims have been checked and are within spec rim and tire assembly road forced to just under 10. At 70 mph car is smooth as silk, however when approaching 80mph wheel steering wheel starts a slight increasing and decreasing vibration and is still there at 110 mph. Mechanics can't seem to figure it out, any insight would be appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 11,048
Likes: 3,390
Could be a bad wheel bearing(s).
ALso there are little "washer" looking things, i believe 1 per wheel, that are almost affixed to the lug nut stud. I know when swapping out my stock wheels for aftermarket wheels, i saw each corner had one of those washers. I cut them off to make the new wheel fully flushed against the hub.
I have hubcentric rings on my aftermarket wheels btw.
ALso there are little "washer" looking things, i believe 1 per wheel, that are almost affixed to the lug nut stud. I know when swapping out my stock wheels for aftermarket wheels, i saw each corner had one of those washers. I cut them off to make the new wheel fully flushed against the hub.
I have hubcentric rings on my aftermarket wheels btw.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 53
If the ZR1 rims are oem no need to take off the "washers" on the studs. Road force of 10 and under is good so unlikely any problem there. You might want to check your torque on your lugs because over tightening can cause vibration as it happened to me.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Vibration
Thank you for your quick responses. The rims are after market and I am not sure if the washers are still on as I had them installed by local tire shop. I will take off the wheels and check as well as retighten, will keep you updated
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
No retaining washer, re-torqued all wheels 25, 50 , 75, 100 ft lbs. still vibrating at 80 plus mph. However I did notice the harmonic balancer wobbling at Idle had a new ATI put on. The vibration is less but still there. I cannot fell any play when trying to move wheel assembly, all bushing look good. At 70 mph car is smooth as silk. This issue is driving me crazy any help on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 196
Likes: 3
From: Glendale Arizona
vibration
No retaining washer, re-torqued all wheels 25, 50 , 75, 100 ft lbs. still vibrating at 80 plus mph. However I did notice the harmonic balancer wobbling at Idle had a new ATI put on. The vibration is less but still there. I cannot fell any play when trying to move wheel assembly, all bushing look good. At 70 mph car is smooth as silk. This issue is driving me crazy any help on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 461
From: Southern Utah
If you have a friend nearby with a C6, you might try his wheels/tires on the car. I realize this is a significant job, but it may be worth it if this really bothers you alot. My bet would still be the wheels, since they are aftermarket. Another thing that I would try is to jack up a corner of the car until the tire is about an eighth of an inch off the ground. Then get down there and watch the gap between ground and tire as you turn the wheel by hand. This is a simple and easy way to check the roundness and concentricity of the wheel/tire assembly. If all is good, the 1/8th inch gap between tire and ground will stay the same as you turn the wheel around...if that gap gets bigger and smaller as it turns, it shows an out-of-round condition and it will be very easy to see. Do this for each wheel, but start with the fronts as that is the more likely place for a problem.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 16
From: Sugarhill Ga
when did the vibration start ? Did you you do brakes, wheels and tires at the same time ? You need to work backwards to find your vibration. Do you have access to the old stuff ? At least the wheels and tires ?
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Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 16,670
Likes: 7,738
From: NJ
If you have a friend nearby with a C6, you might try his wheels/tires on the car. I realize this is a significant job, but it may be worth it if this really bothers you alot. My bet would still be the wheels, since they are aftermarket. Another thing that I would try is to jack up a corner of the car until the tire is about an eighth of an inch off the ground. Then get down there and watch the gap between ground and tire as you turn the wheel by hand. This is a simple and easy way to check the roundness and concentricity of the wheel/tire assembly. If all is good, the 1/8th inch gap between tire and ground will stay the same as you turn the wheel around...if that gap gets bigger and smaller as it turns, it shows an out-of-round condition and it will be very easy to see. Do this for each wheel, but start with the fronts as that is the more likely place for a problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 181
From: Lockport IL
I have an 08 w/28k and the same issue. I have swapped wheels to comp grey but they are 08 OEM wheels. Im lowered on stock bolts with cut rears. I have had an alignment done and front wheels balanced twice. They moved weight on one wheel the 2nd time and it improved but still noticeable. I believe it happened somewhere between when I bought it at 26k...and when i jacked with it 
Going to jack it up to check runout and roundness.
OP...is your car lowered?
Going to jack it up to check runout and roundness.
OP...is your car lowered?
I should have said this...
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Vibration
If you have a friend nearby with a C6, you might try his wheels/tires on the car. I realize this is a significant job, but it may be worth it if this really bothers you alot. My bet would still be the wheels, since they are aftermarket. Another thing that I would try is to jack up a corner of the car until the tire is about an eighth of an inch off the ground. Then get down there and watch the gap between ground and tire as you turn the wheel by hand. This is a simple and easy way to check the roundness and concentricity of the wheel/tire assembly. If all is good, the 1/8th inch gap between tire and ground will stay the same as you turn the wheel around...if that gap gets bigger and smaller as it turns, it shows an out-of-round condition and it will be very easy to see. Do this for each wheel, but start with the fronts as that is the more likely place for a problem.
I have checked the tires while about an 1/8 inch off the ground. The first time there was a significant hop, the car had been sitting for about 3 hrs. I drove the car for about 1/2 an hour and retested, both tires perfect. I don't know if I mentioned they are not run flats but brand new Continental DW's extreme contact.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,349
Likes: 2,444
From: Eastern
It's a head scratcher for sure. You have checked everything I would have. I had the same issue, but a redo on the road force balancer (different garage) did the trick. I told him what was happening, the tech changed the position on the tires in relation to the rim numerous times so he had it with as little weight as possible on all 4 rims. It took him a long while, but $80.00 later, the vibration went away.
You could also have one bad front tire. Even new tires are afflicted once in awhile with a bad one. A rear tire, and you will feel in in the driver seat.
If you ever get this solved, report back so we can all learn what to look for or do in the future.
Thanks
You could also have one bad front tire. Even new tires are afflicted once in awhile with a bad one. A rear tire, and you will feel in in the driver seat.
If you ever get this solved, report back so we can all learn what to look for or do in the future.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 461
From: Southern Utah
It's good to have your general location in your profile here...that way people know what area of the country you are in. If you were around here, you could come over and we could put my two winter tires on your car in 15 minutes and give it a try...
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,999
Likes: 200
From: Bay Area Ca.
I have a steering wheel vibration at 65mph in my 96 4 Runner that I have never been able to rectify, for tha last 8 yrs.
Had everything checked, no answer. Rims are after market and two need at least 5 oz. weights, so I think that this is the problem. Just to cheap to buy other rims.
May never know.
Had everything checked, no answer. Rims are after market and two need at least 5 oz. weights, so I think that this is the problem. Just to cheap to buy other rims.
May never know.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 53
I have a steering wheel vibration at 65mph in my 96 4 Runner that I have never been able to rectify, for tha last 8 yrs.
Had everything checked, no answer. Rims are after market and two need at least 5 oz. weights, so I think that this is the problem. Just to cheap to buy other rims.
May never know.
Had everything checked, no answer. Rims are after market and two need at least 5 oz. weights, so I think that this is the problem. Just to cheap to buy other rims.
May never know.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,999
Likes: 200
From: Bay Area Ca.
Funny you mention another car because I am on my third 93 Deville ( I like them for my daily driver to go to work ) and EVERY one had a vibration in the front end. And the same vibration at the same speed. Going on 10 years for the three cars and also never could figure what's causing this. I learned to live with it.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
It's a head scratcher for sure. You have checked everything I would have. I had the same issue, but a redo on the road force balancer (different garage) did the trick. I told him what was happening, the tech changed the position on the tires in relation to the rim numerous times so he had it with as little weight as possible on all 4 rims. It took him a long while, but $80.00 later, the vibration went away.
You could also have one bad front tire. Even new tires are afflicted once in awhile with a bad one. A rear tire, and you will feel in in the driver seat.
If you ever get this solved, report back so we can all learn what to look for or do in the future.
Thanks
You could also have one bad front tire. Even new tires are afflicted once in awhile with a bad one. A rear tire, and you will feel in in the driver seat.
If you ever get this solved, report back so we can all learn what to look for or do in the future.
Thanks
Today I had an appointment with the largest Corvette dealer in southern New Jersey. Much to my Supprise they told they did not want to work on the car as is has after market rims, tires and rotors. I guess certified GM mechanics can only work on new vehicles. Any way I have checked the run out on the rotors on the hub and they are running at about .001 runout. My next step is to purchase two new front tires and have them balanced at a new shop, this should rule out the wheel assembly as well as the rotor hub setup. One thing of note, I was driving on a newly paved highway and the vibration was noticeably less, a real stumper.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 181
From: Lockport IL
Today I had an appointment with the largest Corvette dealer in southern New Jersey. Much to my Supprise they told they did not want to work on the car as is has after market rims, tires and rotors. I guess certified GM mechanics can only work on new vehicles. Any way I have checked the run out on the rotors on the hub and they are running at about .001 runout. My next step is to purchase two new front tires and have them balanced at a new shop, this should rule out the wheel assembly as well as the rotor hub setup. One thing of note, I was driving on a newly paved highway and the vibration was noticeably less, a real stumper.