I have a 2007 and I did the exhaust but I'm looking to add 100 hp more what about a new 102 mm intake and tb. Cold air or I'm wasting money must keep up with the mustangs and dodge this is my daily driver in the spring time

 

Hm...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-my-c6.html

 

Sell it now, then buy a Z06!!

 

Cam,Headers and a good tune on a DynoJet...

 

yep ^^^^^

 

Thanks but I like this one she just needs a little help

 

If you have not much money go on the bottle , if you have money go forced induction.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/57493/...lb-bottle.html
https://www.procharger.com/automotiv...orvette-c6-ls3

 

I didn't understand the first post at all.

 

You're not going to get 100HP out of an intake and a throttle body. You're talking cam/heads/header/tune, Forced Air or nitrous if you want 100+ more.

 

Looking to see what the best bang for my money

 

Money buys horsepower and speed. There is no cheap way to 100 extra horsepower. Maybe NOS if you are brave.

 

Nitrous until the refill costs match a blower install.

 

Once you obtain 100 HP you will want more. HP is an addiction. Go Forced Induction, so you can pulley down when 175 HP is not enough. Then save your money for forged internals because you will need them for the next power level. It never stops ....

 

Super Charging!!!

Hence by the cost of trying to get to the 100hp, you could have added 250hp for close to the same money with a S/C instead.

Bluntly, you don't list your location, but say Denver (10psi air pressure), and that plus 100hp will just get you back to the 411HP that the motor has at sea level (14.7psi) instead.

Now take the stock motor that is down 100hp due to elevation (thinner air/less PSI of standing air pressure), and a super charger will take it all the way up to 650HP (thin air and all).

Hence N/A mods are all about how the car is going to breath, but it's dependent on the amount of static air pressure available to begin with.

Super charging is be dammed with the static air pressure, but boost that static air pressure to what every static pressure the motor can stand instead. So in the case of say a colo car, the first 5lbs of boost just gets the motor back to sea level power, then you still add booth for another 250hp on the stock motor as well.

To add, it's funny when you dyno a motor at altitude that is actually putting out 650HP, since the dyno's has been calibrated adjusted for the altitude lose, to give a sea level reading HP instead, Hence dyno reading 650 of what the motor is really putting, will read 750HP instead for say the Denver area that the dyno has been calibrated adjusted to give a sea level ASE output power level instead.

 

The best and easiest way is to supercharge your car with a Edlebrock kit....

Just check the for sale section of this site for a preowned kit as they usually sell for 3500 dollars and pay someone to install it for around a grand or 1500 dollars..

Forget all the other BS mods...as you will rarely hit your target reliably without heads and cam...and replacing the valve springs every 15k miles is a pain...

Just do the supercharger ...no headers etc....and you'll hit around 125 added ponies..

25 more than your asking for a few extra dollars....

 

Centrifugal > Roots

 

the stated reason for the OP was to keep up with Mustangs and Dodges. keep up? how fast does the traffic move in your area? what is your area?

how many dodges and mustangs CAN outrun an LS2?

Edit:

forced induction will demand a great deal of launch skill assuming this guy is up to the drag racing scene. I'd say very very few have the needed skill to control a 3,300 lb 2WD car with over 500 flywheel hp.

 

Got to disagree if the target is just 650HP (700 on a LS-9)

Hence either will get you there, Meth kit solves heat soak, and the roots will make power off the bottom from idle up.

With the centrifugal force unit, there is a lot of piping that has to be pressurized before the heads see pressure, plus the unit has to spool up a touch as well.

So roots, from idle to red line (good for DD and road coarse work since the power is linear from the bottom up, and you can gear lug if need to keep the back end in line on a hard drive out of a corner).

Centrifugal, mid range to red line instead (rolling racing and drag strip running, but not so much for road course work, since the mid range boost hit can end up with the back end braking out wildly on a hard drive out of a corner, and with no lower range boost, not able to gear lug out of a corner instead). Bluntly, it like playing turbo lag on older 4 cylinder 944 on a road course, but in a V-8 that you can't play rev ranger like the 944 to stay in the boost, since you have too much power on tap to use it to drive hard out of a corner and keep the back end in check instead.

If we are going above 650HP, then the TVS-2300 is too small, and would need a larger TVS unit that no one makes yet (something in the size of a 8-72 that will get you well beyond 1K HP with out a lot of heat soak and from idle up as well). Hence for fitting under the hood, this is where the Centrifugal shines for making large numbers.

As for putting the power to ground and not just burning the tires off the rims with either way, any tuner that has a clue can adjust the TM so the back end it not coming up with a mind of it own if you over breath on the gas pedal by mistake. Hence a great deal of the E Force own re-tune is to add even more crippling effect to the TM to hold back more horse power from the wheel instantly, so the car is street drive able instead with the blower on it. Same goes for the stock tune in the ZR1.

 

Buy Vararam Header and intake, a cam, a FAST intake, and a custom tune. You will get your 100hp.

Superchargers are lame. edit, unless you live at altitude where they just make the most sense.

 

Timely response thank you, I live just outside of Denver and I'm trying to figure out the best way to wake my GS up due to the altitude. I'm leaning this direction just need to find a knowledgeable shop in the area to help lead me down the right path.