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I've done all interior lights minus the vanity mirrors and glovebox. Best ones are the Cargo lights in the hatch (coupe, not sure what the vert has there) and the map lights in the rearview mirror.
I did the footwells blue and IMO I think it was a mistake and may change them to white.
Exterior , I did the license plate lights, reverse, fogs and high beams. I didn't want to mess with the turn signal /flasher lights with the need to add load resistors to fool the computer as it thinks you have a dead bulb with the low current draw.
I've done all interior lights minus the vanity mirrors and glovebox. Best ones are the Cargo lights in the hatch (coupe, not sure what the vert has there) and the map lights in the rearview mirror.
I did the footwells blue and IMO I think it was a mistake and may change them to white.
Exterior , I did the license plate lights, reverse, fogs and high beams. I didn't want to mess with the turn signal /flasher lights with the need to add load resistors to fool the computer as it thinks you have a dead bulb with the low current draw.
Did your headlights improve with LED high beams? Just a plug and play?
Did your headlights improve with LED high beams? Just a plug and play?
Yes they were plug and play, but the vendor that supplied them is no longer in business. So I can't suggest another "bulb" as they vary greatly depending on the type of LED.
You want CREE or COB type, multiple chips. Preferably with the electrical connector not assembled from the factory. Since you may have to flip the wires and it is easier without the pins already inserted.
I didn't have to do that for the highs but did have to flip one on the fogs as LEDs are polarity sensitive.
I also had to ditch the dust covers over the high beam due to the fan on the end of the bulb since it was internally reducing the voltage. Some people don't like that idea. Fact is one of mine was already dislodged and hanging off the headlamp assembly when I opened it the first time from the factory.
They did improve from the stock halogens but Honestly I use the Low + Fog (Driving) lights more then the highs as it is just as bright in a city/town with street lights environment without the hassle of having to switch them off as they don't blind others vs. the Highs.
I have not done much country/rural driving to run the highs much at all. I just wanted a matched set.
Last edited by Grimlock13; Jan 12, 2016 at 04:44 AM.
how hard are the front fog light lens to come off? I looked last night and not exactly sure?
and the rears also?
You don't remove the lens you access from the back. Just like a headlight bulb. Only exterior lenses you remove to replace the light is the rear red side marker, and it can possibly be done without removal, but it is tight in there and easier for me to pop the whole thing out.
The Front Fog lights, you remove the screws (GS/Z06/ZR1) or push pins(base C6) in the front of the wheel well liner. Turn the wheel all the way in and jack up that side. Then reach in and loosen the 3 screws on the light socket and turn the bulb so the tabs are not under the screws. Unplug the lamp and reverse steps.
The rear reverse lights. You may be able to fit under the back without jacking it, but doing so makes it easier. You just crawl under the back and reach in behind the black diffuser and turn the bulb a 1/4 turn and it comes out. Then push the connector tabs to release the bulb. Connect new one and put back in.
Front Fogs are about 20 minutes per side.
Rear reverse is maybe 10 minutes, if that.
Last edited by Grimlock13; Jan 14, 2016 at 12:57 AM.
I replaced every light inside and outside of my car with LED lights. I just purchased everything from Corvette mods. When I bought a lot of stuff they gave me quite a discount, and it really updated the look of the vehicle. Very happy with the product.
I have limo tint on rear window. I changed the reverse back up lights to LED and it helps. We did interior lights also. This weekend we are doing LED Kit for fog lights. Stock lighting sucks.