Is a Canton #25-194 full flow aluminum billet spin-on with replaceable filter element with no bypass good to use on a street car with occasional track use?. It has a 8 micron replaceable element as used with most race engine applications. My only concern is it has no bypass that the PF-48 and other such filters have. I don't really understand what a bypass is for and if it is required and for what reason. Thoughts?

 

Not an expert just googled it..... LOL

http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/filters.htm

 

My understanding is the oil can bypass if the filter plugs up.

 

My question would be why?
It should work fine --but at 130.00 for the unit you can buy quite a few Napa Gold filters for the same money.

 

Bypass is used when the filter clogs, so the motor will not oil starve for a street car.

Hence for some reason, the sludge in the motor breaks free, gets shoved through pump to the filter to clog in, and when the pressure builds up in the filter, the relief valve in the filter will allow dirty oil to keep flowing through the filter to keep the motor lubed.

So on most filters, they will have a spring on the top of the filter for the bypass. so if the oil pressure through the filter becomes too great, it will force the oil filter upwards towards the top of the housing allowing oil to flow around the filter in the oil filter instead.



As for a race motor, the oil and filter is constantly being changed to keep the system clean, and if the motor does let go, then you don't want a relief valve in the filter instead. Hence motor letting go and although the motor is a paper weight of scrap parts, it's the oil system parts like the cooler and such that you don't want to shove slivers of the motor through instead, since such will never flush out from them, and you would have to replace the cooler line and coolers during the engine replacement as well.

So track car that your going to change the oil and filter after each event, better off with a filter that does not have a blow by valve. Hence you know that sooner than later, your going to blow a motor, and trying to keep the repair cost to just the motor, and not the oiler coolers/accusump system that would be contaminated with chunks of motor parts (requiring them to be replaced as well)..

DD that your not going to be changing the oil/filter ever use instead, then you want a filter with a blow by valve instead. Hence the motor will get some sludge in it, and if the sludge does build up enough in the filter to clog it between your oil/filters changes, then still have oil running through the motor so it does not blow from oil starvation instead.

 

This should explain the theory behind the bypass valve in the oil filter.
Also, I'm pretty sure that the engine also has a bypass valve at the oil filter base mount. See the picture of the base, there is a bypass valve there. The oil cooler block, right above the filter base, also has a valve in it as well.
This is from the Bobs the oil guy.
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The Bypass Valve

Under ideal conditions, the bypass valve will never open. When it opens, the oil by passes the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in real operation, it opens often.

One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.

According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.

 

Hers a little better picture.

 

I use a Mobil 1 filter and don't look back.

 

What I do.....

 

Do you guys get your Mobil 1 Filters on line? I can't get them at wally world and the parts stores do not carry them out in the boonies........just wondering.......Is there a filter # I would need to order with? Thanks....

 

I own that bike! Two of them.

Best bike in the WORLD!

 

I've read a lot of stuff about oil filters. The Amsoil Ea Oil filters have the best overall design & materials that I've found in an oil filter. This comment doesn't really address your original question but on the website I linked to below; the website states that there is less restriction during cold start up because of the synthetic filter materials. This is the filter I use for my 2013 Grand Sport.

(http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ode=EA15K50-EA)

 

Check Amazon I think its M1-113 for the LS3 engines; you can double check the fit on their site.

 

I read the same great reviews of this filter also, and what's very important is the fact that most engine wear happens on cold start ups, and with this filter, it has a important low restriction feature.
These filters in my area are hard to find unfortunately. I would need to order online to get them.

 

Oil Filter Comparison: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-upf48r-2.html

 

This is a great thread with tons of great information. I now know what the bypass valve is for and what it does. theater of it is if the filter becomes plugged it will still flow through the bypass feature of the filter. It is a rare situation that a filter becomes plugged with regular oil changes so the bypass is just insurance that is rarely used. Thanks to all!

 

An Amsoil membership will lower some costs. It's useful for me since pretty much ALL the fluids in my car are from Amsoil...Engine, Transmission, Clutch, Brakes & Power Steering (Pretty much all the fluids except the Rear Dif & Radiator) For the clutch, I've been using the Series 600 DOT 4 fluid as clutch fluid. The car is shifting better than it did when I first got it.
I thought I would add this just because...

 

I get everything online thru Amazon except my Amsoil.