I'm in the middle of building an old school NPP switch, and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how long the cable should be. My car is still hibernating so I can't really get in it to test run a wire. I'd just like to have the whole switch pre-assembled so I can simply install it when I get the 427 out this spring.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

On my 08, I installed a switch. I took the wire that came from the fuse box for the NPP, took it it to a switch, and then went back to the other side of the fuse that I had pulled.

 

And how long would that cable happen to have been? I'm looking for a numerical measurement

 

When I did my homemade NPP switch I used an "Add-A-Fuse" type of deal and an inline fuse type of deal to ensure I still had the fuse inline with the circuit when it was in the off position (i.e. the fuse was put back inline and the exhaust worked as OEM). That gave me a stock fuse end to plug into the fuse bank and an inline fuse plug (to put the fuse I pulled into). The net result was I had two bare wires to splice the longer wires I fed over the torque tube to the switch. For those connections I just used squeeze on crimps from the auto parts store.

I know you're looking for an exact length so you can pre-assemble, but might I suggest you pre-assemble your add-a-fuse assembly, and then you can also pre-solder your switch with two 6-8 ft leads. When you do your installation, you can simply trim the longer wires for a perfect custom fit and crimp the two assemblies together.

I think you might find it easier to just feed the bare wires over the torque tube. I fed a coat hanger in from the passenger side wheel well (fairly close to the firewall) and then just taped the wires from the switch and pulled them back through. Then it was just a matter of ensuring all was neat and clean before trimming them down to the exact length required and crimping them to the fused assembly. I used a couple of plastic cable ties to ensure all the wire from end to end was secure, neat and clean.

I put mine under the dash:



It's a great location. Impossible to see, easy to reach, and impossible to accidentally switch (if you check that spot out, you'll find that you can't get your leg to touch the switch even if you tried). I know some folks prefer the dead pedal switch, but I use that as a brace while I'm autocrossing (or other spirited driving), so that location doesn't work for me.

To try and answer your original question, for that location, I'd say it was about 4 1/2 feet (switch to firewall, over torque tube, up through the dash over the fuse box and down). But then again, as I said earlier, it might be hard to get either end of your assembly over the torque tube....as I recall it was pretty tight (just enough room for wires) where I ended up crossing the middle of the car.

Good luck on your project.

 

4-1/2" to 5" long. I installed mine through the center console with no problems, but did not install it on the dead pedal or under the dash. I ran the switch along the drivers side of the center console and tucked the wire underneath but had the switch sticking out a little bit. It ended up next to the halfway point of the seat bottom. It worked for me, I didn't want to use a drill on anything. I'm glad I didn't because the switch broke after 13 months. Not buying anymore m2w products. Remote switch made it 12 months, old school switch made it 13. Time for exhaust rebel me thinks.

 

Feet instead of inches, maybe?

Otherwise that stonehenge prop is going to look very tiny on stage!

 

My bad, it's feet not inches!

 

Instead of installing anything, you can buy something that plugs into your OBDII port and not need to do anything else

Meaning, if you buy a Dashlogic device, you can program it to monitor various things on your DIC and hUD, and it has 3 NPP modes, for using with the L-center-right mirror switch button.

Full open NPP,factory mode NPP and full closed NPP.

I like the full closed NPP when really getting on it for extended periods, so to be more stealthy.

Here is a thread about it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

 

Sounded great but for $300? About $250 over what I was looking to spend.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I didn't give too much thought to passing through the center area behind the radio, and pre-making the cable would make it very difficult. Looks like I'll have to play it by ear.

Thanks again, all!

 

If you wanted "real" old school, you'd be looking for a push/pull mechanical cable direct to the flaps rather than wiring to activate electrically.