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I check my tire pressure before every session and bleed down to 32 psi front and 33 psi rear. After the last session I fill them up to 40 psi. The next morning they are just about right.
whatever you do, adjust the tire pressure between sessions. Otherwise the pressure will keep building and you will experience what off track driving is like.
Last edited by 50 4Ever; Feb 18, 2016 at 06:55 PM.
this is a 1+ mile track (LEO training). I can touch 100 on my bike (Bandit, not the one in the photo), would assume my base C6 would hit 85+ depending on the cones.
But one says go low pressure and another says high?
I have a base model car with with Michelin zero pressure tires. (I think they are sort of all seasons.)
I just changed the brake fluid and rear end lube. Pads are 60%.
I am not going for records, just to learn the car. (Those pedals are little bit slick for heel-toe). My plan is to use traction control and then maybe Competition mode. I tried No Traction control and don't recommend it.
Last edited by LowRyter; Feb 18, 2016 at 07:41 PM.
A good place to start is about 5 psi lower than the recommended pressure. Depending on the type of track, corner speeds, surface, and your driving, you can expect the tire pressures to increase by 5 to 10 psi after a session. If you want to fine tune things a but, you'll need an inexpensive pyrometer to measure tread temps after each session. Take your temp readings on the outer, center, and inner portions of the tread. If the center temp is more than 4 or 5 degrees hotter than the outer edges, reduce your pressure by a pound or so. If the outer edges of the tread are hotter by 4 or 5 degrees, you'll need to increase the pressure. The goal is to have roughly the same temperature across the surface of the tire. This assumes the car is making roughly the same amount of right and left hand turns. If you were making all lefts for example, the outer portion of the left tires would be hotter, and so would the inner portion of the rights.
If you experience the inners always hotter than the outers, you have too much negative camber.If the outer edges of both left and right are hotter, you need to add negative camber.
OP, how long is each session? Auto-x for a 1 minute run is a lot different than 20 minutes of hard driving on the track. I will see maybe a 4psi rise during Auto-x, but will see 10+psi during a 20 minute track session.
this is a 1+ mile track (LEO training). I can touch 100 on my bike (Bandit, not the one in the photo), would assume my base C6 would hit 85+ depending on the cones.
But one says go low pressure and another says high?
I have a base model car with with Michelin zero pressure tires. (I think they are sort of all seasons.)
I just changed the brake fluid and rear end lube. Pads are 60%.
I am not going for records, just to learn the car. (Those pedals are little bit slick for heel-toe). My plan is to use traction control and then maybe Competition mode. I tried No Traction control and don't recommend it.
You will be ok with 30 lbs standard pressure settings for a 1 mile track. The 25 lbs i mentioned is for continuous tracking of more than 20 minutes at a time. For that Gary,s suggestion above is bang on. Set it to 30 before you start the car in the morning, drive there and do the track with some heat in your tires if you can.
30lbs hot (for street driving temps) has been suggested by a former GM engineer that worked on the Corvette during final testing. This would be in line with the 25lbs cold notion.
This is specific to street driving temps. I ran 30lbs hot (26 cold) and saw a slight exceleration of wear on the edges and when going back to 30lbs cold (35 hot) I now see that wear more in the center of the tire now. Judging this I think that 28 cold or 33 hot might offer the most equal wear for my driving style.