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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 11:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rogers 07
It did occasionally get stuck in Park, requiring a firm push of the shifter towards the dashboard before the release lever/solenoid lock would release, so I sort of expected it was going to go, but when it did is was very sudden, no warning, It was stuck in drive and the shifter just moved freely (Obviously because the cable was no longer attached to the shifter arm) The nylon or plastic bushings in each end of the original cable where completely worn out, the shifter end bushing was actually broken into 3 separate pieces, So I figured I would replace the whole thing just in case there was some hidden internal damage !
My broke in pieces also....Cause...... Because It's hot down there..
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Rogers 07
It did occasionally get stuck in Park, requiring a firm push of the shifter towards the dashboard before the release lever/solenoid lock would release, so I sort of expected it was going to go, but when it did is was very sudden, no warning, It was stuck in drive and the shifter just moved freely (Obviously because the cable was no longer attached to the shifter arm) The nylon or plastic bushings in each end of the original cable where completely worn out, the shifter end bushing was actually broken into 3 separate pieces, So I figured I would replace the whole thing just in case there was some hidden internal damage !
Is the rear bushing / grommet the same item as the front (Shifter

Assembly) ?

Thanks !
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:46 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by windyC6
For those of us that think that our cable will out live us.....i've heard stories of them going bad long before they should just as a couple of post have mentioned.....one at 41-K....and another at 56-K. Just our luck......thank ya GM....
In my opinion, it is a weakness of the auto tranny vettes just lurking to bite the unsuspecting on the A$$. Very expensive and very inconvenient when it happens to the less mechanically inclined of us at the worst possible moment. I won't be ordering any more A6s or A8s in vettes.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:48 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Spark 2
Is the rear bushing / grommet the same item as the front (Shifter

Assembly) ?

Thanks !
From everything that I have read on the Forum, the answer is absolutely yes. Same grommet in the rear as on the front of the cable.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #25  
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[QUOTE=GOLD72;1591782643]From everything that I have read on the Forum, the answer is absolutely yes. Same grommet in the rear as on the front of the cable.[/QUOTE

For those who asked about the A6 shift cable and cable grommets. (These photos are of a brand new cable)

This photo shows the cable ends and both grommets appear to be the same.




This photo is of the cable end as well as the Dorman 14055 grommet kit. In my opinion, neither Dorman grommet in this kit is an exact match, although the white one looks like it might work. Having never changed the grommets myself, I cannot say for sure.





This photo is the opposite side of the cable grommet


Last edited by unclecookie; Mar 16, 2016 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 02:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Rogers 07
It did occasionally get stuck in Park, requiring a firm push of the shifter towards the dashboard before the release lever/solenoid lock would release, so I sort of expected it was going to go, but when it did is was very sudden, no warning, It was stuck in drive and the shifter just moved freely (Obviously because the cable was no longer attached to the shifter arm) The nylon or plastic bushings in each end of the original cable where completely worn out, the shifter end bushing was actually broken into 3 separate pieces, So I figured I would replace the whole thing just in case there was some hidden internal damage !
I use to have to give the firm push also, before I cut the pawl off!! Now at 125,000 I'm wondering if I shouldn't just go ahead and replace the cable before I get a tow bill to go with it!
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 02:38 PM
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My gosh..!!!! Those are the pieces that fall apart and the dealer wants how much to replace them ???. Once again....Thanks GM......thanks for the pics by the way.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by windyC6
My gosh..!!!! Those are the pieces that fall apart and the dealer wants how much to replace them ???. Once again....Thanks GM......thanks for the pics by the way.
I haven't had this problem yet but just from reading about it, the cost is not in the parts, but in the amount of labor necessary to replace them.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 06:35 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bruze
I haven't had this problem yet but just from reading about it, the cost is not in the parts, but in the amount of labor necessary to replace them.
Yup !!! The crappy part is it couldn't possibly cost more than a few cents to make a cable end that just wouldn't wear out ever! Hell, just a straight pin going thru an aluminium bushing with snap ring retainer design would live forever!
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:28 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Rogers 07
Yup !!! The crappy part is it couldn't possibly cost more than a few cents to make a cable end that just wouldn't wear out ever! Hell, just a straight pin going thru an aluminium bushing with snap ring retainer design would live forever!
What I was thinking.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by windyC6
My gosh..!!!! Those are the pieces that fall apart and the dealer wants how much to replace them ???. Once again....Thanks GM......thanks for the pics by the way.


Mine broke when my 2006 was just about 6 years old with 62K miles on it.

I was living in Hawaii at the time and did not have the white space to deal with it myself at the time, and forked over $800 for the dealership to replace the cable.

I am going to bookmark this thread for future reference - next time I'll do it myself.

Hats off to the OP for going to the trouble to document this.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 08:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino


Mine broke when my 2006 was just about 6 years old with 62K miles on it.

I was living in Hawaii at the time and did not have the white space to deal with it myself at the time, and forked over $800 for the dealership to replace the cable.

I am going to bookmark this thread for future reference - next time I'll do it myself.

Hats off to the OP for going to the trouble to document this.
My broke on my 08 6 months ago dealer cost $600.00 plus $95.00 tow.GM puts a lot of cheap **** on our vettes so their dealers can get rich!!..A$$Ho!!s
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 08:57 PM
  #33  
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[QUOTE=unclecookie;1591783755]
Originally Posted by GOLD72
From everything that I have read on the Forum, the answer is absolutely yes. Same grommet in the rear as on the front of the cable.[/QUOTE

For those who asked about the A6 shift cable and cable grommets. (These photos are of a brand new cable)

This photo shows the cable ends and both grommets appear to be the same.




This photo is of the cable end as well as the Dorman 14055 grommet kit. In my opinion, neither Dorman grommet in this kit is an exact match, although the white one looks like it might work. Having never changed the grommets myself, I cannot say for sure.





This photo is the opposite side of the cable grommet

In that 14055 kit, I used the white bushing. I assume the other bushing is for a different GM application.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 09:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Spark 2
I've read this post and several previous posts.

Lots of great information!

The only thing that I question is whether to use Dorman Kit #14041,

or Dorman Kit #14055?

I've seen both numbers mentioned and like all forum members, I'd like

to do the best in this situation.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Spark 2
In the 14041 kit, I understand that the grommet to use is individually labeled 5074045 in small molded print on one end.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:00 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Rogers 07
It did occasionally get stuck in Park, requiring a firm push of the shifter towards the dashboard before the release lever/solenoid lock would release, so I sort of expected it was going to go, but when it did is was very sudden, no warning, It was stuck in drive and the shifter just moved freely (Obviously because the cable was no longer attached to the shifter arm) The nylon or plastic bushings in each end of the original cable where completely worn out, the shifter end bushing was actually broken into 3 separate pieces, So I figured I would replace the whole thing just in case there was some hidden internal damage !
Thanks. I suspect the need to "help" it get out of park was caused by the extra slack in the worn bushings. So the first time that happens to me I'll do a pre-emptive strike and replace the whole thing. I just hope it doesn't happen in the middle of a 6K mile road trip.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rogers 07
Yup !!! The crappy part is it couldn't possibly cost more than a few cents to make a cable end that just wouldn't wear out ever! Hell, just a straight pin going thru an aluminium bushing with snap ring retainer design would live forever!
Heh, interesting.

Having a machine shop in my backyard, I guess if (when?) it happens to me I'll make my own out of bearing bronze.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruze
Heh, interesting.

Having a machine shop in my backyard, I guess if (when?) it happens to me I'll make my own out of bearing bronze.
Granted, the bronze would be virtually indestructible, however, I doubt that would stop the cable itself from breaking. It also might transfer a lot of transmission noise through the cable to the shifter if the cable were equipped with metal grommets, instead of nylon, Teflon, or delrin, or whatever the factory cable ends are made of. JMHO

Last edited by unclecookie; Mar 17, 2016 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by unclecookie
Granted, the bronze would be virtually indestructible, however, I doubt that would stop the cable itself from breaking. It also might transfer a lot of transmission noise through the cable to the shifter if the cable were equipped with metal grommets, instead of nylon, Teflon, or delrin, or whatever the factory cable ends are made of. JMHO
Well sure, beefing up a weak part of a system puts more strain on the next weakest part, but I thought the big problem here WAS the grommets -- not the cable itself . . . ?
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 11:24 AM
  #39  
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TO ALL THOSE FOLLOWING THIS THREAD:

First of all thanks for your help / comments!

I have foun a source for the correct bushing / grommet.

No need to buy a packet with only one that MIGHT fit?

Please see Flee Bay 111717807194.

This shouldn't be against Forum rules since no other vendor is offering

the same?

Last edited by Spark 2; Mar 17, 2016 at 12:01 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruze
I haven't had this problem yet but just from reading about it, the cost is not in the parts, but in the amount of labor necessary to replace them.
Well thank you very much BRUZE, I never would have guess that in a million years. I know you've mentioned before that I am challenged, and I can't help it....but I ain't quite that challenged...LOL.....do me a favor and whip me up a couple of those little brass B@#$@#DS while your at it as i'm sure all this talk will make mine fall apart..
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