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Can't get hurt with this one for personal use from HF plus it's on sale for $85. I use it for my car that's lowered plus it works for my other vehicles too. Put a hockey puck on the jack pad and still have more than enough clearance.
I've got this one and it makes it easy to jack the car up from the cross-members to then get jack stands under the 4 frame points. It's got quite the long reach.
The ones recommended do the job but they are heavy, I went for the aluminum 2 ton cause it is so pretty
It gets under the back with a cradle I made to lift on points recommended but the front still needs to be on my home made ramps to get the cradle and jack under the car
Cons on a low car no doubt
NSF http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-a...ump-62247.html
Looks like Harbor Freight Tools is the home of floor jacks for this forum. I've got the low profile 3 ton model that OneMoreVet recommended and I've only used it once. It's a solid, if heavy, jack but the claim that it will lift most cars in three strokes is bunk. It isn't any quicker than my big red floor jack that I've had for years. I also have the plastic hockey puck to cover the jack head and the nylon press-in hockey pucks for the jacking points. I even bought the cross bar to replace the jack head, but you couldn't get that thing under the car without jacking it up first. If I were to do it again I might have opted for the 2 ton low profile long reach at HFT that rjacobs recommended. With it's long reach it might be able to lift the car higher than standard jacks. Unfortunately the 3 ton low profile is the one that is most often on sale. I paid $79.95 for mine. The 2 ton is usually around $125.
Nice ramps NSF.
Last edited by RagTop69; Apr 16, 2016 at 04:32 PM.
What about using the places that are used when on a car lift. Then a regular floor jack works. Is that not recommended?
You can lift one corner at a time with a standard height floor jack using "hockey pucks" under the frame side rails. You can also get a standard height jack under the rear cross member lifting point to lift both rears at the same time. But to reach the front cross member jacking point, you definitely need a jack with a saddle no more than about 3 1/2" high. Or get a Kwik Lift
You can lift one corner at a time with a standard height floor jack using "hockey pucks" under the frame side rails. You can also get a standard height jack under the rear cross member lifting point to lift both rears at the same time. But to reach the front cross member jacking point, you definitely need a jack with a saddle no more than about 3 1/2" high. Or get a Kwik Lift
Having the same problem a couple weeks ago I followed the suggestion of a couple members.
I picked up a 1& 1/5 ton from HF.
It worked fine to lift the car a few inches to put blocks under the wheels prior to using the EZ car lift.
$60 with the coupon and I was able to share another coupon with a fellow in line.
I do not think I've ever seen this posted in all the posts about low profile jacks, so I took pictures of my system yesterday when I changed my oil in my Grand Sport.
I also have the Harbor Freight 2 ton steel low profile jack ( 60678 or 68050 ) for $139, and the crossbeam ($31).
But obviously there is not enough clearance in the front of the Grand Sport to get it under the front splitter or air dam.
Rather than build my own wooden ramps like NSF, I bought a great set of "mini ramps" designed simply to lift a low car enough to get a jack underneath. These ramps, called TRAK-JAX, are made by Race Ramps.
They are only 3" high, but when the Grand Sport is on them the splitter is over 6" off the ground, enough to slide almost any jack underneath. Addtionally, these ramps weigh less than 2 pounds, take up essentially no space in the garage, and even fit in the hatch of the Vette.
Driving up onto these low ramps in the Grand Sport is barely noticeable until the tire hits the stop on the ramp. My splitter once scraped for a second at the bottom of the ramp, no more than my driveway, but this only happened in one sloped area of my garage floor.
I paid about $85 for the TRAK-JAX . . . a little pricey, but the wood to build my own ramps at Home Depot was almost $50.
My system is to drive up onto the TRAK-JAX, slide the Harbor Freight jack (with crossbeam) under the car, lift it by the front crossmember, and then take the TRAK- JAX out. I then either use jack stands, or for oil changes, I place my higher Rhino Ramps under the wheels and lower the car back down.
I then take the jack away and change the oil. Then I put the jack back, raise the car, slide the Rhino Ramps out and put the TRAK-JAX back under the front wheels. I slowly lower the car back onto these ramps, take the jack away, and back the car off the mini ramps. The whole process takes about at long as it took me to type this post.
I also have the hockey pucks for lifting from the side, but I prefer the car on ramps.
I do not work for Race Ramps, but I am extremely pleased with their TRAK-JAX mini ramps . . . I highly highly recommend them. Good luck.
Reverse Logic sells a lot of Trax-Jax ramps which are 3" high. I recommend against the model with stops for these reasons:
1) The stops are not very substantial and can easily be overridden.
2) The stops decrease the area size of the ramp platform.
3) When lowering the car back down onto the ramps it's easy to misjudge the placement of the ramps and damage the stop if the tire contacts the stop before the platform.
If you are not comfortable judging the position of your tires when driving up the ramps you can place a wheel chock in the path of the rear tire so that the tire contacts the wheel chock when the front tires are centered on the platform.
...Rather than build my own wooden ramps like NSF, I bought a great set of "mini ramps" designed simply to lift a low car enough to get a jack underneath. These ramps, called TRAK-JAX, are made by Race Ramps.
They are only 4" high, but when the Grand Sport is on them the splitter is almost 6" off the ground, enough to slide almost any jack underneath. Addtionally, these ramps weigh less than 2 pounds, take up essentially no space in the garage, and even fit in the hatch of the Vette.
Driving up onto these low ramps in the Grand Sport is barely noticeable until the tire hits the stop on the ramp. My splitter once scraped for a second at the bottom of the ramp, no more than my driveway, but this only happened in one sloped area of my garage floor...
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; Dec 18, 2016 at 10:45 AM.
Reverse Logic sells a lot of Trax-Jax ramps which are 3" high. I recommend against the model with stops for these reasons:
1) The stops are not very substantial and can easily be overridden.
2) The stops decrease the area size of the ramp platform.
3) When lowering the car back down onto the ramps it's easy to misjudge the placement of the ramps and damage the stop if the tire contacts the stop before the platform.
If you are not comfortable judging the position of your tires when driving up the ramps you can place a wheel chock in the path of the rear tire so that the tire contacts the wheel chock when the front tires are centered on the platform.
I appreciate your comments. Every ramp I have ever bought had some type of indicator for the front edge, so I just automatically bought the one with the stop. Even with the stop there is plenty of room for the Grand Sport tires on the platform. And I find the stop very gentle but effective. So I'm happy with my purchase.
Additionally, although I did not post this detail, once the car is on the Trak Jax I actually mark the position of the mini ramp on my garage floor with a pencil. I then also place chocks on the rear wheels. Then when its time to lower the car back onto the ramps I simply place the Trak Jax back where my pencil lines are located. Has worked perfectly so far (only 3 oil changes).
So my "system" is working fine for me . . . but as you are an expert in these ramps I appreciate your insight. Great product for sure !!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
I like that
