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I have a 2009 C6 base model. I was going to order the jacking pucks and purchase a good Jack and stands in order to do my own oil changes at least. I am getting some borla s type exhaust installed this week at a local dyno speed shop. I inquired about them using the jacking pucks because I don't have them at this time. They said they have them and they always use them. Then he told me for my needs at home he suggested a set of ramps instead and that this was the reason. He said it can be tricky to use a jack and jack stands because of not doing it properly can lead to problems with the doors and hood closing properly. He suggested opening the doors and hood or leaving them ajar while jacking because of the cars unibody and movement that can happen if done improperly. They do a lot of work on corvettes here and I don't doubt what they say.
Any input about this would be great. I have limited space but instead of purchasing ramps , it looks like having the front and back of the car level is ideal. I'm leaning towards building some ramps out of wood that the entire car can be on instead of a set that just gets the front of the car up. What do you think, anyone?
Thanks
I would think doors closed would offer more rigidity. Plus, it would take a whole lot more twisting of a frame to bend it. At least I would hope so anyway. I would agree that lifting from one spot would probably tweak it just a bit but would relax and go back to its natural form once back down on all fours.
I'll ask the person who told me this when I get my exhaust installed this week. Maybe I misinterpreted what he said. I guess you have never experienced any problems?
FYI.. Our vettes are not unibody type cars. It has a full frame and rather large at that.
But not to say that they can not flex some, but I never experience any problems with alignment of the doors or hood after lifting the car. Ramps do make the job much easier though.
This is what I use, but a one piece set.
Race Ramps are very light and easy to store by hanging them on your garage wall or placing them on a high shelf. Wooden ramps that are the same size as Race Ramps will be very heavy and take considerable floor space for storage.
Originally Posted by Pilotkev55
....I have limited space but instead of purchasing ramps , it looks like having the front and back of the car level is ideal. I'm leaning towards building some ramps out of wood that the entire car can be on instead of a set that just gets the front of the car up. What do you think, anyone?
Thanks
The C6 frame is extremely rigid and tough. If you jack from either side jack point, front or rear, that whole side of the car will lift completely off the ground. No way will anything flex just from jacking. Maybe back in the day but not with this car.
I just posted this in another thread . . . I bought mini 3" ramps called Trak-Jax. They lift the front of the car just enough to slide any jack under the front. I then jack the car up , remove the mini ramp and slide my higher ramp in place. Lower the car down, remove jack and change oil. Then reverse.
I like the mini ramps cause they are small ( fit in Vette ), light ( 2 lbs ) and much easier to manage then heavy wood ramps.
I've been changing my oil in all my cars on Ramps for 30 years, never lifted the rear, never had any problems. I've also lifted my C6 from the side, doors closed. No problem, but I prefer ramps.
I like those ramps, I imagine then just jacking the back up in the middle then putting a couple of Jack stands in to make it level would not be bad.
If you use ramps be very careful with jacking the rear end.
I was going to do the same thing. I had the front of my car up on the ramps. My garage is fairly level. When I went to jack up the back of the car, as soon as the back tires got off the ground the car came rolling down the ramps. I set the back end down just in time before the front tires came off the first part of the ramp. I have the three part ramps because my car is so low. Z06. I had the second and third parts of the ramp all ready removed. Scared the crap out of me.
From then on I use two short 2x12's to drive up on, just enough room to get my low profile jack under, and jack the car up using the center cradle. Then put the front two stands under the front two pucks. Go to the rear and do the same. Car is ridged and safe resting on the four jack stands with the pucks. I always use a piece of wood on the jack so as not to hurt the aluminum cradle.
I made these 2"x12" ramps and jacking cradles when I belonged to the C5 Z06 forum. The sizes were posted by a forum member. They have worked out quite well.
The front wheel and rear wheel ramps (the fronts are the longer ones)
The jacking cradles, front and rear
When stored, all the pieces take up a 4' long x 12" wide x 16" high area of my garage floor.
Last edited by unclecookie; Apr 19, 2016 at 11:56 AM.
The reason guys open the doors is because with a floor jack you are only jacking up the one side of the car which will twist the frame and could damage the doors if they are closed.
Now whether or not this is true?? I don't know. But that is why I have seen guys do it.
The reason guys open the doors is because with a floor jack you are only jacking up the one side of the car which will twist the frame and could damage the doors if they are closed.
Now whether or not this is true?? I don't know. But that is why I have seen guys do it.
Like I said before, it might be true on older cars but not true with a C6.
Opening doors and the hood was a thing on older Corvettes. Not needed at all anymore. As noted above, the C6 is so rigid that when you jack from the front jack puck, the rear of the car will also raise up. Your mechanic is working off of info that was relevant with C3's and maybe C4's.
Use the jack points shown above by Don-Vette and you will be fine. Always use jack stands AND wheel chocks so you car does not roll. Doors and hood can stay closed.
Last edited by HBsurfer; Apr 19, 2016 at 12:35 PM.
Opening doors and the hood was a thing on older Corvettes. Not needed at all anymore. As noted above, the C6 is so rigid that when you jack from the front jack puck, the rear of the car will also raise up. Your mechanic is working off of info that was relevant with C3's and maybe C4's.
Use the jack points shown above by Don-Vette and you will be fine. Always use jack stands AND wheel chocks so you car does not roll. Doors and hood can stay closed.
C3's where notorious for door closing problems if not jacked properly.
Even when jacked properly.
Not sure about C4's.
Ever since the new hydro formed rails C5 and newer, no problem jacking. I have jacked my C6 from the side with no problem what so ever.
FYI.. Our vettes are not unibody type cars. It has a full frame and rather large at that.
But not to say that they can not flex some, but I never experience any problems with alignment of the doors or hood after lifting the car. Ramps do make the job much easier though.
This is what I use, but a one piece set.
I thought that the flex issues were the "Mid-years" Vette. Not the C6's
From what I've heard, opening the doors, trunk, and hood isn't necessary on current Vettes but it used to be. But it doesn't hurt, and everywhere I take mine that even runs it up on a lift, including my Vette specialty shop, open them. May be just habit, but good insurance against wedged doors, etc.
C6 jacking advice
I set the back end down just in time before the front tires came off the first part of the ramp. I have the three part ramps because my car is so low. Z06. I had the second and third parts of the ramp all ready removed. Scared the crap out of me.
