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Old May 18, 2016 | 11:26 AM
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From: Orygun
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Remember: I am not a mechanic.

Got the Vette out yesterday. Started fine and I drove to work. It has been on a battery tender. Went out at break and went out the post office. Started and ran fine as usual. Went back to work and at lunch two hours later went out and it would not start. Just a few clicks. Jumped it and got it to the local Vette guru. Ran a bunch of tests and said all was fine. Said he would keep it over night to see if anything happened. He started it this morning and it started it and it hesitated a little but started. He ran it for a minute, shut it off and then went to restart it and it would not start. He then ran a recorded test on it of the electrical system. He said all was fine for a while but after a little bit something came on in the car that drew a lot of juice. He said everything was off and something just came on that was a big draw???? He said he would warranty out the battery with a now one but said it was not the original one in the car. So it will be at least the 3rd battery in a 2013 car with 2700 miles on it. That sucks.

Any ideas????? Thanks in advance.

Mark
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Old May 18, 2016 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mad0953
Remember: I am not a mechanic.

Got the Vette out yesterday. Started fine and I drove to work. It has been on a battery tender. Went out at break and went out the post office. Started and ran fine as usual. Went back to work and at lunch two hours later went out and it would not start. Just a few clicks. Jumped it and got it to the local Vette guru. Ran a bunch of tests and said all was fine. Said he would keep it over night to see if anything happened. He started it this morning and it started it and it hesitated a little but started. He ran it for a minute, shut it off and then went to restart it and it would not start. He then ran a recorded test on it of the electrical system. He said all was fine for a while but after a little bit something came on in the car that drew a lot of juice. He said everything was off and something just came on that was a big draw???? He said he would warranty out the battery with a now one but said it was not the original one in the car. So it will be at least the 3rd battery in a 2013 car with 2700 miles on it. That sucks.

Any ideas????? Thanks in advance.

Mark
Your mechanic will need to see if he can duplicate his results. If he can, that's good as he will be able to pull fuses/relays to help track down the current gobbling module. Some things I have read about here that may drain the battery are the OnStar module, the stereo and even the ignition. Since it comes on after the car has been off for a bit, I am guessing OnStar. Good luck and please keep us posted.
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Old May 18, 2016 | 12:24 PM
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Only a suggestion, drive the car. A 3 year old car with only 2700 miles. The battery is not being allowed to charge itself.
Keeping it on a tender does not bring the battery up to full charge, and as you know these cars need ALL the juice to start.
Just my .02
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Old May 18, 2016 | 01:15 PM
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From: Orygun
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Originally Posted by unixcorn
Your mechanic will need to see if he can duplicate his results. If he can, that's good as he will be able to pull fuses/relays to help track down the current gobbling module. Some things I have read about here that may drain the battery are the OnStar module, the stereo and even the ignition. Since it comes on after the car has been off for a bit, I am guessing OnStar. Good luck and please keep us posted.
I don't have my OnStar active..............would it still update?
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Old May 18, 2016 | 01:33 PM
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Any added electrical devices??? Radar detector, blue tooth, cell fone charger?
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Old May 18, 2016 | 01:45 PM
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From: Orygun
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Nope, no added things. I might add that yesterday I went through the gears a couple of times and hit the rev limiter pretty hard one time. Would that do anything?
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Old May 18, 2016 | 02:54 PM
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If the new battery doesn't fix the issue, then you certainly have a parasitic draw on some system or systems.
I've attached a checklist for you to check.
Hopefully, your new battery will fix it.

Reaching the rev limiter would not cause what you are describing IMO.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf
Parasitic Draw.pdf (527.8 KB, 130 views)
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Old May 18, 2016 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mad0953
Nope, no added things. I might add that yesterday I went through the gears a couple of times and hit the rev limiter pretty hard one time. Would that do anything?
That shouldn't have anything to do with anything. I'm thinking a corroded or loose connection at battery or starter. A draw, unless it was huge, wouldn't cause the starting problem after such a short time. Check those connections...
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Old May 18, 2016 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cclive
That shouldn't have anything to do with anything. I'm thinking a corroded or loose connection at battery or starter. A draw, unless it was huge, wouldn't cause the starting problem after such a short time. Check those connections...
That would be a great place to start to look for any issues.
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Old May 18, 2016 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cclive
That shouldn't have anything to do with anything. I'm thinking a corroded or loose connection at battery or starter. A draw, unless it was huge, wouldn't cause the starting problem after such a short time. Check those connections...
I agree too. Bad connections get worst once heated up. The resistance in the bad connection goes up.
The higher the resistance the lower the current supplied to the starter.
The higher the resistance the lower the current supplied back to the battery to start car. If this is your problem, the fix is usually cheap and easy. Good luck my Vette Brother.

Last edited by Reggied; May 18, 2016 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
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Old May 18, 2016 | 05:34 PM
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Great troubleshooting guide by LV2TOUR-that should help you narrow it down-good luck.
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Old May 19, 2016 | 04:27 PM
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From: Orygun
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Well, couldn't find any parasitic voltage loss so we put in a new Interstate battery and am going to monitor the battery and see if it goes bad. It had a NAPA/Exide battery in it and my mechanic was able to warranty it out. The whole episode cost me $67. He said to drive it more. It's kinda tough here though with 4 months of Winter with ice and snow on the roads and lotsa gravel for traction and this year was a really bad year. It even snowed last month.
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Old May 19, 2016 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mad0953
Well, couldn't find any parasitic voltage loss so we put in a new Interstate battery and am going to monitor the battery and see if it goes bad. It had a NAPA/Exide battery in it and my mechanic was able to warranty it out. The whole episode cost me $67. He said to drive it more. It's kinda tough here though with 4 months of Winter with ice and snow on the roads and lotsa gravel for traction and this year was a really bad year. It even snowed last month.
I know the feeling. I have to put my car into hibernation for 4-5 months due to winter, and I keep my battery on a tender all winter. The battery stays charged up, and good to go in the spring.
I once had a Battery tender that went bad, so you may want to check it out. It would show charged, but would not keep the battery at full charge.

I do drive mine pretty regularly from April1-Nov1 each year, putting on 8-10K miles on yearly, so the battery get a lot of alternator charging

Last edited by 4SUMERZ; May 19, 2016 at 05:17 PM.
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