Burning Oil Between Changes
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 193
Likes: 16
From: Orange Tex
Burning Oil Between Changes
I'm using Mobil One 5w/20 in my 05 with 71,000 on it. It seems to be burning about a half quart between changes. Is this any thing to be concerned about. It is my daily driver. I live in Texas so the weather can get pretty hot at times. Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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At 71K, although the spark plugs do not need to be changed out yet, would still be a good time to pull them to at least clean them (and reinstall them with some anti-seaze).
Note, when you remove the spark plugs, engine cooled down to air temp so you can put your hand on the motor and leave it there, and the spark plugs are only tightened to 11Ft lbs when put back in. Also, use some dielectric grease in side the plug boots so the wires snap back onto the plugs correctly.
As for why your pulling the plugs, your checking each plug for any signs of wet oil, or a plug that is dark black soot'd that may be because a valve oil seal has cracked instead.
Note, when you clean the plugs and make the gaps are .040: still, it normal to have a light Red sooting on the plugs. The color comes from the additives that they put in fuel to begin with.
Note, when you remove the spark plugs, engine cooled down to air temp so you can put your hand on the motor and leave it there, and the spark plugs are only tightened to 11Ft lbs when put back in. Also, use some dielectric grease in side the plug boots so the wires snap back onto the plugs correctly.
As for why your pulling the plugs, your checking each plug for any signs of wet oil, or a plug that is dark black soot'd that may be because a valve oil seal has cracked instead.
Note, when you clean the plugs and make the gaps are .040: still, it normal to have a light Red sooting on the plugs. The color comes from the additives that they put in fuel to begin with.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,540
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From: Houston, Tx
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Last edited by simplegto; Jun 9, 2016 at 11:32 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
I bet the OP's problem resolves itself after using heavier oil
Last edited by enventr; Jun 9, 2016 at 10:23 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
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From: Florida
At 71K, although the spark plugs do not need to be changed out yet, would still be a good time to pull them to at least clean them (and reinstall them with some anti-seaze).
Note, when you remove the spark plugs, engine cooled down to air temp so you can put your hand on the motor and leave it there, and the spark plugs are only tightened to 11Ft lbs when put back in. Also, use some dielectric grease in side the plug boots so the wires snap back onto the plugs correctly.
As for why your pulling the plugs, your checking each plug for any signs of wet oil, or a plug that is dark black soot'd that may be because a valve oil seal has cracked instead.
Note, when you clean the plugs and make the gaps are .040: still, it normal to have a light Red sooting on the plugs. The color comes from the additives that they put in fuel to begin with.
Note, when you remove the spark plugs, engine cooled down to air temp so you can put your hand on the motor and leave it there, and the spark plugs are only tightened to 11Ft lbs when put back in. Also, use some dielectric grease in side the plug boots so the wires snap back onto the plugs correctly.
As for why your pulling the plugs, your checking each plug for any signs of wet oil, or a plug that is dark black soot'd that may be because a valve oil seal has cracked instead.
Note, when you clean the plugs and make the gaps are .040: still, it normal to have a light Red sooting on the plugs. The color comes from the additives that they put in fuel to begin with.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 873
From: Bay Area CA
At 71K, although the spark plugs do not need to be changed out yet, would still be a good time to pull them to at least clean them (and reinstall them with some anti-seaze).
Note, when you remove the spark plugs, engine cooled down to air temp so you can put your hand on the motor and leave it there, and the spark plugs are only tightened to 11Ft lbs when put back in. Also, use some dielectric grease in side the plug boots so the wires snap back onto the plugs correctly.
As for why your pulling the plugs, your checking each plug for any signs of wet oil, or a plug that is dark black soot'd that may be because a valve oil seal has cracked instead.
Note, when you clean the plugs and make the gaps are .040: still, it normal to have a light Red sooting on the plugs. The color comes from the additives that they put in fuel to begin with.
Note, when you remove the spark plugs, engine cooled down to air temp so you can put your hand on the motor and leave it there, and the spark plugs are only tightened to 11Ft lbs when put back in. Also, use some dielectric grease in side the plug boots so the wires snap back onto the plugs correctly.
As for why your pulling the plugs, your checking each plug for any signs of wet oil, or a plug that is dark black soot'd that may be because a valve oil seal has cracked instead.
Note, when you clean the plugs and make the gaps are .040: still, it normal to have a light Red sooting on the plugs. The color comes from the additives that they put in fuel to begin with.
Best to do a WOT run just before removing the spark plugs for accurate readings.
BTW: With 71k+ miles, I would replace both the plugs and spark plug wires and be done with it.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Jun 9, 2016 at 11:04 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: corpus christi Texas
Dano, GM does not recommend anti-seize on new iridium plugs, so when re-using the old plugs has the anti-seize coating worn off the threads?
Best to do a WOT run just before removing the spark plugs for accurate readings.
BTW: With 71k+ miles, I would replace both the plugs and spark plug wires and be done with it.
Best to do a WOT run just before removing the spark plugs for accurate readings.
BTW: With 71k+ miles, I would replace both the plugs and spark plug wires and be done with it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,840
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From: Tree City
Not a c6 but I drive my 08 Impala SS to Florida a couple times a year. It's about 2000 miles round trip (plus another 500 miles or so while I am down there) and it will burn around a half quart or so. It has just under 70,000 miles on it. So you shouldn't worry about yours.
Last edited by Jimmy W1; Jun 9, 2016 at 12:31 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Dano, GM does not recommend anti-seize on new iridium plugs, so when re-using the old plugs has the anti-seize coating worn off the threads?
Best to do a WOT run just before removing the spark plugs for accurate readings.
BTW: With 71k+ miles, I would replace both the plugs and spark plug wires and be done with it.
Best to do a WOT run just before removing the spark plugs for accurate readings.
BTW: With 71k+ miles, I would replace both the plugs and spark plug wires and be done with it.
Here, is my take,
The plugs are good for 100K, but can be a PITA to get them to spin out cleanly after the amount of time instead.
Myself, I will check the plugs every 30K, to make sure that they are fine, the gaps still correct/clean them, and that nothing funky is going on in the motor as well.
So Between this amount of cleanings and making sure I not having a problem pulling and reinstalling the plugs this amount of times in their lives/ the heads, a light amount of anti-seize is added to the plug threads on the spark plugs themselves.
Bottom line, you have a plated plug being screwed into an aluminum threaded channel, and since aluminum can oxidize over time, the anti-seize just prevents you from stripping the head channel threads over time multi plug pulls and re-installs instead.
So if the plan is only to replace the plugs once in the life time of the motor/heads at 100K with new plugs, then forgo the anti-seize. If you are going to be pulling the plugs a lot more than just once to replace them at 100k only, then use a very light coat of anti-seize on the plug threads isntead.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 1,546
From: Florida
I think the reason for no anti-seize is the plug mfgrs of iridium plugs started pre-treating the threads in the manufacturing process. Now they're just out of the box ready to install in aluminum heads.