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At least now I know how to do it. Maybe I'll try it again in a few days. I asked in another thread if I needed to unhook the battery and someone said no. Then that bell kept dinging and I got distracted.
I was following the one guy who showed how to remove the radio bezel, then when I couldn't get the bezel off with it in park I noticed he had a stick shift and he was showing how to change the bezel. Not fixing the stuck in park deal. I tried looking to find another thread on how to do it and I had a meltdown.
Everyone said how they got theirs done in 1/2 hour to an hour- I'd spent two hours and I didn't even have mine apart yet.
Then I got afraid that I would damage or break something so I just lost my confidence and quit. That car means so much to me and I didn't want to tear it up.
I'll try it again here in a few days. I'm not one to give up easily. I'd been getting psyched up to do it for 2-3 days now.
I'll try it again later. Thanks guys. I appreciate your help and your comments.
I've been psyching myself up for two years now, so don't feel bad.
I have another question.........I start the car, put it in neutral, shut the car off and then disconnect the battery. Right? (yes but you can also put the ignition switch into Aux Power which will allow you to go to Neutral without starting the engine. Then take the negative cable off the battery to shut up the dinging bell.)
So if I do this and take everything apart, won't the cam already be in the reverse position to wire to the rear of the car? (yes it should be in the rearward position. You can easily rotate the pawl with your fingers so it isn't an issue even if you put the shifter back into Park after the console trim piece is out of the way.)
What I am asking is, if the car is in neutral, won't the paw that rotates to the rear of the car to get it out of park- won't it already be rotated to the rear? Then all I have to do is to put a wire through it and tie it back to hold it there. (yes but you will have to drill a small hole in the plastic pawl for the tieback wire.)
Also, what kind of wire should I use to tie it back with? I was thinking about using a piece of 14/2 electric wire- probably the ground wire. Would that be OK to use? (yes that is exactly what I used, a short length of 14 AWG romex solid wire conductor. I didn't want to use a plastic wire cable tie in fear that heat would eventually make it brittle and break.)
I think I started getting scared about finishing when I had to unhook the cigarette lighter, traction control wire and all of that. (please note in my earlier post that the one connector that is really difficult is the Aux Power port harness connector. It has a hidden latch that is very difficult to find without turning the console trim piece upside down to get a good look at it. I struggle both times with this one connector. the other connectors are pretty straight forward.)
I was surprised how everything came apart so easily until I got down to taking those wires off. I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to get them back on without pinching them or breaking off one of the connectors. (trust me, reinstalling the electrical connectors is very easy compared to taking them apart.)
It's funny, I was an automotive electrical repairman for years and I used to do jobs like this every day. But that was 40 years ago. I still work on my cars but for some reason I started freaking out and I felt like I was going to mess something up. (electrical harness connector design has radically changed in 40 years and I find it a challenge nearly everytime I have to remove one on a modern car.)
I'll probably give it another try here in a few days.
But am I correct in thinking that the paw will be in the backward position once I get in there? (it really isn't an issue one way or the other as explained above.)
Thanks guys.
I hope this helps you. I also need to warn you that when you lift the leather boot upward around the shifter ****, be careful with the shift position indicator panel that is bonded to the leather boot. It is mechanical in nature. There is an orange button at the bottom of the shifter lever mechanism that inserts into a female hole underneath the indicator panel that moves the indicator light bulb forwards and backwards. Disengage the orange button from the female hole carefully to avoid breaking it. Let us know how it goes.
GOLD wrote: please note in my earlier post that the one connector that is really difficult is the Aux Power port harness connector.
I know little of modern electronic gadgets in cars, but I don't think I have that. Isn't that for smart phones or something? (which I don't have).
My car is an '07 3LT, no nav. TIA!
My car is an '07 3LT no nav vert. Yes, the aux power plug-in port is for powering external devices that have a cylindrical male plug that would also fit into a car's cigarette lighter port. Radar detectors and CB radios have such male power plugs as an example. Open the center console storage compartment lid and you will see the aux power port with a removable rubber/plastic cover piece at the front left side of the storage compartment.
My car is an '07 3LT no nav vert. Yes, the aux power plug-in port is for powering external devices that have a cylindrical male plug that would also fit into a car's cigarette lighter port. Radar detectors and CB radios have such male power plugs as an example. Open the center console storage compartment lid and you will see the aux power port with a removable rubber/plastic cover piece at the front left side of the storage compartment.
Ha, okay, yes I am quite familiar with cig lighters and know where it is on my C6, although I quit smoking for good in 1999.
I thought you were talking about a computer/smart phone connection or something that are maybe on newer models.
From: US-ARMY 1974-1996 Retired ; Oklahoma, City ; Atlanta, Ga: Hephzibah, Ga
Originally Posted by Jimmy W1
I was looking at the thread entitled, "Disabled my shift lock, finally" by EV Rose. They show that there are two different places/paws to wire back in that thread.
I was thinking about wiring back the paw like he did in #18. Is that the right piece to wire back? Shouldn't that paw already be rotated toward the rear if I have the car in neutral?
Thanks again, guys.
I know how you feel I had to cross that bridge about two weeks ago. Went out to supper and when I came out it wouldn't move out of park. After going through all the steps of pushing the shifter forward, cutting the car off and made sure the brake pedal was press. I said Lord Help me on this one I got the rest. It went into gear. That was it. That weekend I pull that center console out and used a wire to hold that little arm back. Now when I get in Vette no matter where I am I know for sure she will go in gear. The thing about using the wire “fix-it” it’s all reversible.
My car is an '07 3LT no nav vert. Yes, the aux power plug-in port is for powering external devices that have a cylindrical male plug that would also fit into a car's cigarette lighter port. Radar detectors and CB radios have such male power plugs as an example. Open the center console storage compartment lid and you will see the aux power port with a removable rubber/plastic cover piece at the front left side of the storage compartment.
I don't have that auxiliary port
I don't have the navigation system/Garmin system either. And I don't have the big **** for the traction system, either. All I have is a cigarette lighter and the small traction system button. So mine should be easier, right?
I don't have that auxiliary port
I don't have the navigation system/Garmin system either. And I don't have the big **** for the traction system, either. All I have is a cigarette lighter and the small traction system button. So mine should be easier, right?
He was talking about this. Everybody has this including you.
I know how you feel I had to cross that bridge about two weeks ago. Went out to supper and when I came out it wouldn't move out of park. After going through all the steps of pushing the shifter forward, cutting the car off and made sure the brake pedal was press. I said Lord Help me on this one I got the rest. It went into gear. That was it. That weekend I pull that center console out and used a wire to hold that little arm back. Now when I get in Vette no matter where I am I know for sure she will go in gear. The thing about using the wire “fix-it” it’s all reversible.
I see you have a Precision Red 2005. That makes your C6 just about the oldest on the road as only the first couple of months of C6 production was sprayed with that red before GM switched to Victory Red due public outcry. Meaning you have to worry about shift cable grommet failure next as you are now overdue for such. I personally will never buy another auto vette as the shifter and cable failures are far too common in the C6 generation and I expect to see the same with the auto C7s as they age.
I was thinking they were talking about a plug that you plug a cell phone into up on the console to play music with. I have one of those in my 2008 Impala SS.
I see you have a Precision Red 2005. That makes your C6 just about the oldest on the road as only the first couple of months of C6 production was sprayed with that red before GM switched to Victory Red due public outcry. Meaning you have to worry about shift cable grommet failure next as you are now overdue for such. I personally will never buy another auto vette as the shifter and cable failures are far too common in the C6 generation and I expect to see the same with the auto C7s as they age.
So if you do this bypass/tie back on the pawl and this shift cable breaks, will you still be able to get it out of park? What does that cable do?
By the way, mine has been sticking in park now for about three years. I have always been able to get it out of park just by tapping on the brake pedal. Sometimes20-30 times. But it has always come out of park eventually. There were times when I didn't think it was going to, but it always did.
So if you do this bypass/tie back on the pawl and this shift cable breaks, will you still be able to get it out of park? What does that cable do?
By the way, mine has been sticking in park now for about three years. I have always been able to get it out of park just by tapping on the brake pedal. Sometimes20-30 times. But it has always come out of park eventually. There were times when I didn't think it was going to, but it always did.
The shifter cable connects the console shifter to the transmission in the back of the car. So when it fails your transmission will be stuck in whatever gear position it happens to be in when the cable separates. You will be able to move the shifter thru all of the gear positions very freely but it won't matter because it is no longer connected to the transmission housing in the rear of the car where the gears are!! Welcome to the wonderful world of C6 auto transmission vettes. When mine failed last December, fortunately it was in my garage in the Park position. Had to remove the center console trim piece and remove the shifter module from the tunnel top. Only 4 - 10mm nuts hold the shifter module to the car tunnel floor. Upon lifting, I could see that the front cable eye grommet had split and allowed the shifter cable to fall off the bottom of the shifter cable pin. After digging out the old split half of the plastic grommet, I silicone sprayed and then pressed a new Dorman grommet into the one-way cable end eye with a pair of pliers. Then reinstalled the shifter module. You will have to go back to the rear bottom of the car and physically shift the transmission shift lever on the transmission housing to its lowest gear position (by rotating the lever CCW/forward thru the position detents) with your fingers to extend the shifter cable as far forward into the console tunnel as possible. The shifter cable is very stiff and easily damaged so you will need as much of this forward cable end extended into the tunnel so that you can R/R the forward end plastic grommet. Plenty of threads with pics on this.
My theory of why these forward shifter cable grommets are failing on C6 autos is because that compartment below the shifter module is fully enclosed due to the bottom blockout plate for structural rigidity for the C6's structure. It traps heat and gets really hot in there and that thermally ages the plastic grommet and makes it likely to crack over time. The rear cable grommet is far less likely to crack and I think this is due to the rear tranny housing being more open to the moving air stream back there so it doesn't get so hot. A much more heat resistant plastic or non-metallic grommet is needed. Though I don't own a C7, I think the architecture and shifter cable will be very similar to C6 and thus I see that this will be a continuing problem into the C7 Generation. JMHO
Well the one I was looking at said how to remove the console. I asked in another thread and they said I didn't have to disconnect the battery. And someone else said not to take the shifter **** off. Now this one says to do it.
At least I know how to do it. Maybe I'll try again some other time.
Thanks. I appreciate your help
If you are really that scared to work on your car, you may want to find a forum member or local car club member to help you. These cars aren't rocket surgery. Don't know how many times I've worked on my 05 including doing a header swap on 4 jack stands a few weeks back.
One other question: the finger on the paw that goes under the shifter and rotates- is that what people are snipping off? I am talking about the little arm that protrudes out from the paw and is under the shifter rod when the button on the gear shift is depressed. Is that what some people are cutting off?
One other question: the finger on the paw that goes under the shifter and rotates- is that what people are snipping off? I am talking about the little arm that protrudes out from the paw and is under the shifter rod when the button on the gear shift is depressed. Is that what some people are cutting off?
Can't say for sure Jimmy but my impression of previous discussions is that others just brute force broke the entire pawl off. I would just wire it permanently rearward so it can't engage. That way the mod is reversible by remove the wire. At least one member brought the wire into the center console compartment so that the pawl could be rotated manually when needed from the center console compartment.
One other question: the finger on the paw that goes under the shifter and rotates- is that what people are snipping off? I am talking about the little arm that protrudes out from the paw and is under the shifter rod when the button on the gear shift is depressed. Is that what some people are cutting off?
You're overcomplicating and over thinking the whole thing. It's really simple to see what needs to be done once you get it apart.
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