Short shifter
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From: Zephyrhills Florida
Cutting Stock Shifter
I was talking to my neighbor (who has a c5z) and he made mention of cutting the stock shifter to reduce the throw. Did a little research and seems like that's what a lot of people have done to their c5's, but couldn't find anything regarding the C6. I have a 2008 and wasn't sure if this was still possible to do. Anyone tried it?
Last edited by Mike050788; Aug 2, 2016 at 12:40 PM.
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From: Zephyrhills Florida
I've actually been looking at the MGW's and Hurst. Was talking to my neighbor about it and he said "why not cut it and save a couple hundred bucks?" Thought if they both did the same thing, why not?
Race Director
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Not going to work, since your shifter **** is retained on the side of the shifter shaft via a bolt. Hence there is just not enough room to cut the top off, and then re-drill and tap the side for the needed bolt location channel to work with the ****.
http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/c5-c6...-corvette.html
Next, you don't go to a MGW shifter since it has just shorter throws if adjust that way, but due to the pivot point design of the upper shifter assembly that makes the throws more clean/precise instead.
Hence even if you did manage to shorter an OEM shifter shaft to work with the ****, it still going to have those vague throws still (just shorter throws instead).
Trust me, it night and day with a MGW shifter both on the up shifts and down shifts in regards to be percise, while the stock OEM shifter on the vet is something that feels like it came of of a Ferguson tractor since it so sloppy instead.
Note, if you are coming up from say a mustang, then the shifter may feel fine with it vagueness, but if you are coming down from say a Ferrari with a gated shifter, than the Vet stock OEM shifter on the vet it a disgrace for a premiere sports car instead.
http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/c5-c6...-corvette.html
Next, you don't go to a MGW shifter since it has just shorter throws if adjust that way, but due to the pivot point design of the upper shifter assembly that makes the throws more clean/precise instead.
Hence even if you did manage to shorter an OEM shifter shaft to work with the ****, it still going to have those vague throws still (just shorter throws instead).
Trust me, it night and day with a MGW shifter both on the up shifts and down shifts in regards to be percise, while the stock OEM shifter on the vet is something that feels like it came of of a Ferguson tractor since it so sloppy instead.
Note, if you are coming up from say a mustang, then the shifter may feel fine with it vagueness, but if you are coming down from say a Ferrari with a gated shifter, than the Vet stock OEM shifter on the vet it a disgrace for a premiere sports car instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Aug 2, 2016 at 12:54 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
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People cut down shifters on all kinds of cars. But you need to ask yourself why do you want to modify it? Is it actually too tall or do you want a smoother shift?
You can improve shifter feel with some aftermarket shifters. Cutting the stock shifter will only reduce the throw and require an increased effort to shift (due to less leverage).
It's pretty simple to drill and tap a new hole.
Does your neighbor know anything about performance car modifications? To the layman it may appear that they do the same thing, but a good quality shifter upgrade will have more to it than just a length change (see Dano523's post).
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You can improve shifter feel with some aftermarket shifters. Cutting the stock shifter will only reduce the throw and require an increased effort to shift (due to less leverage).
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Last edited by dmk0210; Aug 2, 2016 at 12:58 PM.
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From: Zephyrhills Florida
I'm not exactly sure how knowledgeable he is when it comes to these type of things. Coming from Mustangs and Camaros, the Vette's shifter feels "smooth" to me. I was looking more for a shorter throw than a smoother shift, although, I have been looking at aftermarket shifters, which I know will have the benefits of both.
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From: Zephyrhills Florida
If all you want is shorter than cutting it down will do that.
One other thing. Aside from Dano523's point about needing to drill and tap for the mounting screw, you may also need to turn down the diameter. I might be wrong, but I had my console out a couple weeks ago and seem to remember that the shifter diameter got thicker down the length (cone'd out slightly). If you cut it, the ball might not fit back over it unless the diameter is cut down.
New shifters are expensive (I'm saving my pennies for an MGW myself), but shortening the OEM shifter may just be more hassle that it's worth. This is probably one of the cases where it's better to save your money and do it right.
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One other thing. Aside from Dano523's point about needing to drill and tap for the mounting screw, you may also need to turn down the diameter. I might be wrong, but I had my console out a couple weeks ago and seem to remember that the shifter diameter got thicker down the length (cone'd out slightly). If you cut it, the ball might not fit back over it unless the diameter is cut down.
New shifters are expensive (I'm saving my pennies for an MGW myself), but shortening the OEM shifter may just be more hassle that it's worth. This is probably one of the cases where it's better to save your money and do it right.
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Thank you and good to know! I'd rather do it right instead of a hack job. Guess I'll start saving my pennies too
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
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I believe I was wrong about the shaft diameter. I found a picture of the OEM shifter online and it looks like you can cut it down an inch or two. It doesn't fatten out until the very bottom.
Still, in my experience with cut down oem shifters on other cars, the results are rarely satisfactory and they often make shifts more awkward, not better.
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Still, in my experience with cut down oem shifters on other cars, the results are rarely satisfactory and they often make shifts more awkward, not better.
.
Last edited by dmk0210; Aug 2, 2016 at 01:29 PM.
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From: Crestwood Kentucky
In my old car (87 T/A that I built an engine for and converted the transmission to t-56) I went with a hurst base and the stock stick with a piece cut out (which shortened it) and welded back together. I really liked this combination better than the entire hurst unit.
The problem with stock base is there aren't the heavy duty stops like an aftermarket one has and you can cause damage to the linkage, or even worse the stick itself from over extension.
The problem with stock base is there aren't the heavy duty stops like an aftermarket one has and you can cause damage to the linkage, or even worse the stick itself from over extension.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Vancouver Island
The stock shift **** extends the height of the shifter by an inch or so, you can try a billiard ball style **** and it will sit a little lower and shorten the throw. It won't be the same as an MGW, the MGW's shorter and more precise throws are due mainly to what's below the shifter boot, not what extends above it.
For a really short throw, you can try both the MGW and the billiard ball. I tried both, I love the MGW but didn't like the billiard ball.
For a really short throw, you can try both the MGW and the billiard ball. I tried both, I love the MGW but didn't like the billiard ball.
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From: Zephyrhills Florida
The stock shift **** extends the height of the shifter by an inch or so, you can try a billiard ball style **** and it will sit a little lower and shorten the throw. It won't be the same as an MGW, the MGW's shorter and more precise throws are due mainly to what's below the shifter boot, not what extends above it.
For a really short throw, you can try both the MGW and the billiard ball. I tried both, I love the MGW but didn't like the billiard ball.
For a really short throw, you can try both the MGW and the billiard ball. I tried both, I love the MGW but didn't like the billiard ball.
What type of **** did you end of getting? I love the Billard ball style *****,but was sure if the factory **** would fit the MGW or not...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Austin Tx
I just put a MGW in my 2008 Z06. Difference in night and day from stock. Worth every penny. If I don't sell my C5, I will put one in it as well. I should have listened and done it 5 years ago.
Last edited by shadowman1; Aug 2, 2016 at 10:28 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2015
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From: Las Vegas Nevada
if you want better shifting, you have to get a better shifter, not just shorten the bad one you have.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Vancouver Island
I put the stock shift **** back on, I liked the feel better. I think there are a few different options for shift ***** with MGW shifters, including factory stock - check out their web site. If the stock shifter isn't to your liking, you won't find a better solution than the MGW. I wouldn't waste time and money trying other things...
Race Director
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**** style all depends on how you are going to drive the car.
If track use with you sling shooting the shifter up the gears (wearing out the trans from shifting into gear, instead of allowing the syncro's enough time to do there thing instead), then the ball type ***** tend to be better,
If you using the car for more of road course type use, then it the palm of your hand that is going to be on the side of the shifter, not the top, and the road course shifter ***** work better isntead.
As for using the stock OEM **** and the MGW shifter, play with the orientation of the shaft to the shifter body clocking so when you put your palm on the right hand side of the ****, it feels correct for a left hand push over straight in line for the 1-2 gate line instead. For me, the shifter **** clocked to abound 12:15 feels about right, but it may be different for you depending on arm lenght and seating position.
And again, the shifter throw distances can be changed on the MGW shifter, depending on how much you have the **** shaft screwed in or out of the body before you tighten the jam nut.
For a standard type **** with the side screw.
For a thread on **** isntead.
On the square flat stick shaft unit, it lacks this adjustable instead.
If track use with you sling shooting the shifter up the gears (wearing out the trans from shifting into gear, instead of allowing the syncro's enough time to do there thing instead), then the ball type ***** tend to be better,
If you using the car for more of road course type use, then it the palm of your hand that is going to be on the side of the shifter, not the top, and the road course shifter ***** work better isntead.
As for using the stock OEM **** and the MGW shifter, play with the orientation of the shaft to the shifter body clocking so when you put your palm on the right hand side of the ****, it feels correct for a left hand push over straight in line for the 1-2 gate line instead. For me, the shifter **** clocked to abound 12:15 feels about right, but it may be different for you depending on arm lenght and seating position.
And again, the shifter throw distances can be changed on the MGW shifter, depending on how much you have the **** shaft screwed in or out of the body before you tighten the jam nut.
For a standard type **** with the side screw.
For a thread on **** isntead.
On the square flat stick shaft unit, it lacks this adjustable instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Aug 3, 2016 at 01:00 AM.