New Ceramic pads,new problem
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Something very important. You do not bed in your brakes, get them up to 500 degrees and few minutes later go home and park the car. You drive at normal or hwy speeds, at least 3 to 5 miles without using your brakes, if you can, let them cool to normal temps than park it. That should have been in the bedding process template.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 558
Likes: 7
Something very important. You do not bed in your brakes, get them up to 500 degrees and few minutes later go home and park the car. You drive at normal or hwy speeds, at least 3 to 5 miles without using your brakes, if you can, let them cool to normal temps than park it. That should have been in the bedding process template.
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My OEM pads did not leave this much rust to be seen. I guess the DuraLast pads do not. Wish I had known this before.
Last edited by stp357; Aug 12, 2016 at 11:19 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Originally Posted by stp357
I have to assume that they were seated. The shop, a Vette specialty shop, had the tech take it out on the road. I saw him accelerating and stopping, so I am assuming that he was seating them.
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Sounds like that was a half a'd attempt, proper bedding takes more than that and about 30 to 40 minutes of your time. I suggest you look up bedding process, follow it to t, that might seat the pads properly and get rid of your rust problem. The pads eventually will seat in in few thousand miles by themselves but above will make the process lot faster.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Lincoln CA
Being a basic newbie to the C6 world, I am surprised that so many people are saying that their pads sweep the entire area of their rotors. I've never seen a setup like that before. If you look at the positioning of the pads and calipers on the rotor I don't think that the calipers reach all the way to the center part of the rotor. I've done disc brakes on several occasions and have never seen an arrangement where the entire rotor area is swept. The rust problem sounds like the rotors have no finish on them since it is occurring in areas where there is no contact with the pads.
BTW, if the design of the emergency brake is still the same as on my '69 Vette, the rear brakes have a separate little drum system inboard of the rear rotors that is dedicated to the e-brake. I can't see how setting that or not setting that would have any impact on the rear rotors or pads.
BTW, if the design of the emergency brake is still the same as on my '69 Vette, the rear brakes have a separate little drum system inboard of the rear rotors that is dedicated to the e-brake. I can't see how setting that or not setting that would have any impact on the rear rotors or pads.
Last edited by RagTop69; Aug 12, 2016 at 05:00 PM.
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Front.
Rear.
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St. Jude Donor '09
Looks like your front pads aren't contacting the rotor at all, or not very much. You can still see the cross hatching from the machining tools.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Originally Posted by stp357
I'm leaning towards the DuraLast pads not contacting the rotors the same as the OEM pads. I don't think that seating will make the DuraLast pads cover more of the rotor, but what do I know?
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That is possible but not probable. Most after market manufacturers duplicate the exact same dimensions of the OEM, it should cover the same area as the OEM. Another possibility is that you have the wrong pads for your year or brake system. The last, whenever you put new pads on used rotors it will take quite some time for both surfaces to mate fully, one is true, the only the other one is not.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Originally Posted by stp357
My rears look just like the ones on the rear in the gray car above. I would think that a guy who works on nothing but Vettes would know if the parts were not correct. If you look at the front (top pic) it appears that the pads sweep all the way across the rotor.
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Well now, either I, and the guy with the grey car above have the same issue, or maybe there were changes in the design. Either way, I'm going back to the shop tomorrow and hopefully get to the bottom of it. By the way, my car is a 10 GS.
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Check out this thread.
Last edited by EVRose; Aug 12, 2016 at 10:15 PM.
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Le Mans Master
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This is an entertaining thread...folks, if there is not enough force to remove rust from the rotor, there is certainly not enough force to stop the vehicle. it has nothing to do with rotors being turned, trued, warped, etc.
Fortunately, the OP took a pic showing the rust, none of which is in the pad area. To the OP...you have steel rotors. They will rust if not plated, or coated. You can clean off the rust, then paint the area that is rusting. That will take care of it for quite some time.
Some will recommend just painting the entire rotor, then letting the pads scrape the paint off the pad area. I would not do that because the paint residue could become embedded in the pad, which might cause problems in the future.
Just mask off the contact area, paint 'em with rust-proof primer, follow with color of your choice, and they will be good to go for a long time.
Fortunately, the OP took a pic showing the rust, none of which is in the pad area. To the OP...you have steel rotors. They will rust if not plated, or coated. You can clean off the rust, then paint the area that is rusting. That will take care of it for quite some time.
Some will recommend just painting the entire rotor, then letting the pads scrape the paint off the pad area. I would not do that because the paint residue could become embedded in the pad, which might cause problems in the future.
Just mask off the contact area, paint 'em with rust-proof primer, follow with color of your choice, and they will be good to go for a long time.