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ya but you don't get the extra 30 HP a good tune gives you or any of the other benefits why would I want to have the crap throttle response back?
Well I don't need another 30 horse, I wanted a better throttle response and a way to go back to stock feel/economy when on long trips. This fits my needs.
No plans to buy one anymore. I drive mine just the old men that my buddies and I laughed at 50 years ago.
I step on it once in a while and that's good enough. Too lazy to do any kind of work on the car that I don't have to.
That reminded me of the guy at my home track in 1965 that had a '65 375 hp FI Vette that was race prepped, slicks, etc and ripped up the competition every week. My '65 tri-power GTO couldn't hold a candle to that car. The name on the car was "The OLD MAN" and he was well into his 60's. To me that was really cool. Now at 75, I'm the old man that the 20-somethings come over to see at the track and ask about what I've done to run that quick.
That reminded me of the guy at my home track in 1965 that had a '65 375 hp FI Vette that was race prepped, slicks, etc and ripped up the competition every week. My '65 tri-power GTO couldn't hold a candle to that car. The name on the car was "The OLD MAN" and he was well into his 60's. To me that was really cool. Now at 75, I'm the old man that the 20-somethings come over to see at the track and ask about what I've done to run that quick.
Imagine you have the standard outside water spicket (rotary) which we'll equate to the gas pedal. The water coming out of the valve is the horse power. It takes two or three rotations of the valve to fully unleash the full blast (h.p.) of the water. This is an analogy of the stock Corvette factory set up.
Would you like a device on your water spicket that you could install to get the maximum amount of water immediatly upon your first "C" hair twist of the valve instead of having to turn it several times?
Just sayin'.
Bad analogy. You don't want an on/off switch on your car that's all or nothing, because you have no control in between.
Picture yourself in a 50' long room with your back to the wall. Now run as fast as you can to the other wall. Notice that it took you maybe 10' to get to full speed and you slowed down at the other end so you didn't hit the wall and go splat. That represents acceleration and deceleration ramps. Now if we put a big spring behind your back at the start, you could get up to full speed in maybe 5' and that changes the rate of acceleration. Applying that same concept to the electronic programming to start the throttle plate movement would mean quicker engine response without changing the ultimate speed. It makes no difference if you were wanting partial throttle (quick jog) or WOT (full out run), the initial burst (spring behind your back) would be the same. Push another button on the controller and you change the size of the ramp (spring behind your back). Eco mode would be like trying to push a shopping cart and you can't get to full speed for 15 or 20' depending on how much weight (like which controller button) is in the cart.
Bad analogy. You don't want an on/off switch on your car that's all or nothing, because you have no control in between.
Picture yourself in a 50' long room with your back to the wall. Now run as fast as you can to the other wall. Notice that it took you maybe 10' to get to full speed and you slowed down at the other end so you didn't hit the wall and go splat. That represents acceleration and deceleration ramps. Now if we put a big spring behind your back at the start, you could get up to full speed in maybe 5' and that changes the rate of acceleration. Applying that same concept to the electronic programming to start the throttle plate movement would mean quicker engine response without changing the ultimate speed. It makes no difference if you were wanting partial throttle (quick jog) or WOT (full out run), the initial burst (spring behind your back) would be the same. Push another button on the controller and you change the size of the ramp (spring behind your back). Eco mode would be like trying to push a shopping cart and you can't get to full speed for 15 or 20' depending on how much weight (like which controller button) is in the cart.
Maybe, but I wasn't meaning it literally. It's to give people an idea about the difference between stock and with this controller.
I was onto a Vitessi controller until I decided to go FI. Now I might not. After I get the SC installed and running I'll reassess.
Although there is almost universal condemnation of the factory throttle response ramp, probably one good reason is better launch control. Even with stock 430hp and a manual shift, about all you're going to do is spin tires. The Vitessi would exacerbate that, BUT, you have the easy control of turning back to zero. At 6xxHP, the Vitessi might eternally sit at zero.
After the FI install I will do the final tune, so I will test drive the launch. Of course, FI is not coming on till midrange RPM anyway. Launches will likely remain as stock. So, one thing I want to be sensitive to, is changing the ramp at launch combined with the spooling up of the SC. I don't want to "jerk" the SC into high RPM.
BTW, I am wondering, and I have no info other than a notion, if the factory throttle response ramp changes when you switch off traction control. Anyone know? I think it could only do that with two throttle % maps and I am guessing the tune doesn't have that sophistication. I will know eventually.
Last edited by BlindSpot; Sep 17, 2016 at 09:17 AM.
I already had a Dyno tune on my 08, and later I put on a V-Max ported and polished Tb.The first hit of the start button I heard the different and on the street it made a Hugh different on better response. I'm not going to put anything on my vette that messes with the ecm.
That reminded me of the guy at my home track in 1965 that had a '65 375 hp FI Vette that was race prepped, slicks, etc and ripped up the competition every week. My '65 tri-power GTO couldn't hold a candle to that car. The name on the car was "The OLD MAN" and he was well into his 60's. To me that was really cool. Now at 75, I'm the old man that the 20-somethings come over to see at the track and ask about what I've done to run that quick.
I too owned a tri power '65 GTO.
You know an Honda Accord or Toyota Camry will best it 0-60 nowadays.
Just saying how far technology has come along with weight savings.
Our ild muscle cars where not really that fast comparatively speaking with today's.
Still though it was a beast.
We had a local kid with a 60' Corvette that beat everyone around.
Only car he lost to, and it was big time, was a 427 original Shelby Cobra. The Cobra had near 600 hp though and of course light.
Nobody knew what the Vette owner did to prep his car.
I was onto a Vitessi controller until I decided to go FI. Now I might not. After I get the SC installed and running I'll reassess.
Although there is almost universal condemnation of the factory throttle response ramp, probably one good reason is better launch control. Even with stock 430hp and a manual shift, about all you're going to do is spin tires. The Vitessi would exacerbate that, BUT, you have the easy control of turning back to zero. At 6xxHP, the Vitessi might eternally sit at zero.
After the FI install I will do the final tune, so I will test drive the launch. Of course, FI is not coming on till midrange RPM anyway. Launches will likely remain as stock. So, one thing I want to be sensitive to, is changing the ramp at launch combined with the spooling up of the SC. I don't want to "jerk" the SC into high RPM.
BTW, I am wondering, and I have no info other than a notion, if the factory throttle response ramp changes when you switch off traction control. Anyone know? I think it could only do that with two throttle % maps and I am guessing the tune doesn't have that sophistication. I will know eventually.
With FI and a proper tune you will not need any throttle improving device. Even with a centri uint, your going to pick up torque down low. Doing so will make driving in the rain a disaster!
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Sep 17, 2016 at 02:18 PM.
I was onto a Vitessi controller until I decided to go FI. Now I might not. After I get the SC installed and running I'll reassess.
Although there is almost universal condemnation of the factory throttle response ramp, probably one good reason is better launch control. Even with stock 430hp and a manual shift, about all you're going to do is spin tires. The Vitessi would exacerbate that, BUT, you have the easy control of turning back to zero. At 6xxHP, the Vitessi might eternally sit at zero.
After the FI install I will do the final tune, so I will test drive the launch. Of course, FI is not coming on till midrange RPM anyway. Launches will likely remain as stock. So, one thing I want to be sensitive to, is changing the ramp at launch combined with the spooling up of the SC. I don't want to "jerk" the SC into high RPM.
BTW, I am wondering, and I have no info other than a notion, if the factory throttle response ramp changes when you switch off traction control. Anyone know? I think it could only do that with two throttle % maps and I am guessing the tune doesn't have that sophistication. I will know eventually.
Pardon me for being out of the hot-rodding scene for the past 45 years, but WTF does "FI" mean if not "fuel injection"? I assume you're not going to fuel inject your factory fuel-injected C6.
Pardon me for being out of the hot-rodding scene for the past 45 years, but WTF does "FI" mean if not "fuel injection"? I assume you're not going to fuel inject your factory fuel-injected C6.
FI = Forced Induction Mr. Bruze. Not going to FI my factory EFI
And, no worries about not knowing...We help our "senior citizens" out on this site realizing that it might have "been a while"...LOL...
Last edited by BlindSpot; Sep 17, 2016 at 11:31 AM.
I went a little over board going for a better throttle response but I am very pleased. On my LS2 A4- Airaid intake, vmax ported TB, ported FAST 102, COW booster and full engine and tranny tune.
Pardon me for being out of the hot-rodding scene for the past 45 years, but WTF does "FI" mean if not "fuel injection"? I assume you're not going to fuel inject your factory fuel-injected C6.
You'll see C6 FI/nitrous listed as one of the forums under Community at the far right of Corvette forum page. I.E. C6 ZR1, C6 Tech & Perf., C6 FI/Nitrous, etc.
I was onto a Vitessi controller until I decided to go FI. Now I might not. After I get the SC installed and running I'll reassess.
Although there is almost universal condemnation of the factory throttle response ramp, probably one good reason is better launch control. Even with stock 430hp and a manual shift, about all you're going to do is spin tires. The Vitessi would exacerbate that, BUT, you have the easy control of turning back to zero. At 6xxHP, the Vitessi might eternally sit at zero.
After the FI install I will do the final tune, so I will test drive the launch. Of course, FI is not coming on till midrange RPM anyway. Launches will likely remain as stock. So, one thing I want to be sensitive to, is changing the ramp at launch combined with the spooling up of the SC. I don't want to "jerk" the SC into high RPM.
BTW, I am wondering, and I have no info other than a notion, if the factory throttle response ramp changes when you switch off traction control. Anyone know? I think it could only do that with two throttle % maps and I am guessing the tune doesn't have that sophistication. I will know eventually.
Assuming the Vitesse changes the ramps, and I'm convinced that's how it functions, if the zero setting still results in wheel spin, an eco mode setting will retard (actually extend) the ramp similar to, but smoother than, a 2-step. With 7 to chose from, you can compensate for road surface conditions.
If you already have the Vitesse controller and HP Tuners, scan throttle position ramps at WOT (as sharply as you can hit the pedal) in each of the advance and retard modes and post or PM me the results. I'd do it myself, but I haven't purchased the Vitesse yet, nor have a close friend to borrow one from.
With a 4000 stall and Hoosiers, I hook solidly on a well prepped track to get 60' times in the 1.48-1.5 range, but if the prep is poor, retarding (extending) the ramp might be a slicker and consistent approach than soft-pedaling it.
Assuming the Vitesse changes the ramps, and I'm convinced that's how it functions, if the zero setting still results in wheel spin, an eco mode setting will retard (actually extend) the ramp similar to, but smoother than, a 2-step. With 7 to chose from, you can compensate for road surface conditions.
If you already have the Vitesse controller and HP Tuners, scan throttle position ramps at WOT (as sharply as you can hit the pedal) in each of the advance and retard modes and post or PM me the results. I'd do it myself, but I haven't purchased the Vitesse yet, nor have a close friend to borrow one from.
With a 4000 stall and Hoosiers, I hook solidly on a well prepped track to get 60' times in the 1.48-1.5 range, but if the prep is poor, retarding (extending) the ramp might be a slicker and consistent approach than soft-pedaling it.
Good point about the eco mode. I'm too soon right now to datalog anything, or better put, in between dataloggers. I gave up the Diablosport but haven't converted over to HPT yet.
I am working on getting my dashlogic setup with a wideband. Getting the wideband bung welded, dashlogic programmed etc, etc. Once I have AFR setup I will start datalogging the factory tune before I switch over to boosted. I might never get to datalog the Vitessi BC I haven't and might not purchase it now.