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This is probably one of the least used switches in the Corvette dash. Between all the garage queens and those only driven on perfect blue sky days I'll bet a lot have never been pushed. So had some condensation on the hatch and wanted to burn it off. The switch was very stiff, have to push harder than I'm comfortable with then it goes in with a pop. Couple of days later I tried it again and it's frozen again.
Figured I'd hit it with some WD40 but don't know it it will get where it needs to go and seems like it could make a mess. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone got a picture of what's behind the panel?
No pic but my wife opened a drink that spewed on one of my switches unknown to me. When I tried to use it it was stuck. Used some interior cleaner on it and wiped it with a mf cloth. Worked for me.
Figured I'd hit it with some WD40 but don't know it it will get where it needs to go and seems like it could make a mess. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone got a picture of what's behind the panel?[/QUOTE]
NO WD40!!! IT IS NOT A LUBRICANT, IT IS A RUST PREVENTATIVE.
WD40 will, over a short time, leave a sticky residue, and will contribute to making parts more difficult to operate. Recommend "Rem-Oil", Pro-Shot Zero Friction, or similar light-machinery oil.
WD40 is a top-notch rust preventive, due precisely to it's conversion to a somewhat sticky residue. Do not use it for lubrication.
I use it on most metal finishes that I do not want to oxidize at all.
Last edited by buckmeister2; Feb 28, 2017 at 05:21 PM.
Oops, forgot to mention...I had to use the hatch defoster here in Vegas last week and it did work, but very slowly. The rear window defroster in my old Siverado was much faster (same type...heated wires embedded in glass, no air movement involved).
This is probably one of the least used switches in the Corvette dash. Between all the garage queens and those only driven on perfect blue sky days I'll bet a lot have never been pushed. So had some condensation on the hatch and wanted to burn it off. The switch was very stiff, have to push harder than I'm comfortable with then it goes in with a pop. Couple of days later I tried it again and it's frozen again.
Figured I'd hit it with some WD40 but don't know it it will get where it needs to go and seems like it could make a mess. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone got a picture of what's behind the panel?
Least used I didn even know it had that is it close to the eject buttons or what ever the ones are with the little pictures of the seats
As stated WD40's out, wrong application. For loosening nuts/bolts.
Big box store's electrical departments sell cans of compressed electronic cleaner. Give switch a shot w/ that stuff and if it doesn't work, likely the switch itself.
My favorite is Radio Shacks electrical contact cleaner. They were purchased by another company so some stores are still around. It's a non-conductive cleaner and lubricant that I've used for years in the electronics industry. Originally devoloped for old rotory style TV channel selectors.
This is probably one of the least used switches in the Corvette dash. Between all the garage queens and those only driven on perfect blue sky days I'll bet a lot have never been pushed. So had some condensation on the hatch and wanted to burn it off. The switch was very stiff, have to push harder than I'm comfortable with then it goes in with a pop. Couple of days later I tried it again and it's frozen again.
Figured I'd hit it with some WD40 but don't know it it will get where it needs to go and seems like it could make a mess. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone got a picture of what's behind the panel?
I have had this exact same issue of the windshield and rear defrost buttons sticking on my 08 and colder the season the stickier they get! They don't stick in the summer.
The issue seemed to get slightly worse over 4 or 5 years.
I bought the car with 20,000mi on it so i don't know if it ever had a drink spill from the previous owner or if this is a defect??
Can you confirm if in fact nothing has ever spilled on these buttons??
Has anyone else ever had this problem and never had a drink spilt on the buttons?
I have had this exact same issue of the windshield and rear defrost buttons sticking on my 08 and colder the season the stickier they get! They don't stick in the summer.
The issue seemed to get slightly worse over 4 or 5 years.
I bought the car with 20,000mi on it so i don't know if it ever had a drink spill from the previous owner or if this is a defect??
Can you confirm if in fact nothing has ever spilled on these buttons??
Has anyone else ever had this problem and never had a drink spilt on the buttons?
be carful with contact cleaner, my 3 far right buttons were sticky from what look like a drink spill, cleaned it with contact cleaner and they moved better for a few day but went back to being hard to push... also after the contact cleaner the light for those three lights are out!!
be carful with contact cleaner, my 3 far right buttons were sticky from what look like a drink spill, cleaned it with contact cleaner and they moved better for a few day but went back to being hard to push... also after the contact cleaner the light for those three lights are out!!
i also tried goo gone adheisive remover and it only works temporary. I then sprayed a shot of pressurized carb cleaner into the button and the light no longer works (or is broken).
The reason im wondering if its a defect is because i bought a replacement unit out of a gently used c6 with low milege and it showed up with the same 2 sticky buttons! Therefore im not sure if they all get like this in the cold temps or if it was also spilt on at some point.
i also tried goo gone adheisive remover and it only works temporary. I then sprayed a shot of pressurized carb cleaner into the button and the light no longer works (or is broken).
The reason im wondering if its a defect is because i bought a replacement unit out of a gently used c6 with low milege and it showed up with the same 2 sticky buttons! Therefore im not sure if they all get like this in the cold temps or if it was also spilt on at some point.
Try some teflon dry lube (goes on wet, dries white but is easily wiped off).
BE SURE TO READ THIS FIRST:
I've never used it (yet) on buttons, I'd test it somewhere to see if you can get the white out of the small crevices. It's sold for home plastic window runners and I've used there and on my car where I want smooth plastic operation. Awesome for plastic rivets remove and replace!!!!!
Try and test it some place and see if it that helps.
be carful with contact cleaner, my 3 far right buttons were sticky from what look like a drink spill, cleaned it with contact cleaner and they moved better for a few day but went back to being hard to push... also after the contact cleaner the light for those three lights are out!!
Originally Posted by Dutch08
Try some teflon dry lube (goes on wet, dries white but is easily wiped off).
BE SURE TO READ THIS FIRST:
I've never used it (yet) on buttons, I'd test it somewhere to see if you can get the white out of the small crevices. It's sold for home plastic window runners and I've used there and on my car where I want smooth plastic operation. Awesome for plastic rivets remove and replace!!!!!
Try and test it some place and see if it that helps.
id be afraid of breaking it again.
i might try to disassemble it as long as its not too complex!
i fixed my tv remote that was once spilt on and stopped working. I took it apart and cleaned with rubbing alcohol but it was pretty simple and straight forward. That worked perfectly.
id be afraid of breaking it again.
i might try to disassemble it as long as its not too complex!
i fixed my tv remote that was once spilt on and stopped working. I took it apart and cleaned with rubbing alcohol but it was pretty simple and straight forward. That worked perfectly.
Disassembly is the way to go. The plastic window in the HVAC unit on mine got a bunch of stress lines in it. Drove me up the wall. Finally bought special plastic and cut and installed a new window. Looks great!
Anyway, your problem. If you disassemble the unit, you will have complete access to the buttons without any electronics attached. You can get them as clean as you like. Take a picture of the unit in the car as when you remove the cover I think I remember the buttons will fall out. The cover comes off easily.
To get the cover off you'll have to remove the center dash bezel, then remove the HVAC unit connections and the two screws that hold it in.
If you have problems, there are more than a few steps to do the above sentence, ask here on the forum someone will help you including me. There are also several writeups on removal already posted.
Disassembly is the way to go. The plastic window in the HVAC unit on mine got a bunch of stress lines in it. Drove me up the wall. Finally bought special plastic and cut and installed a new window. Looks great!
Anyway, your problem. If you disassemble the unit, you will have complete access to the buttons without any electronics attached. You can get them as clean as you like. Take a picture of the unit in the car as when you remove the cover I think I remember the buttons will fall out. The cover comes off easily.
To get the cover off you'll have to remove the center dash bezel, then remove the HVAC unit connections and the two screws that hold it in.
If you have problems, there are more than a few steps to do the above sentence, ask here on the forum someone will help you including me. There are also several writeups on removal already posted.
As mentioned I purchased a replacement unit which also has the issue (its not installed yet), and the seller has given me the option of returning the one i bought, but it's so brand new looking i think it is worth trying to disassemble first.
Ill attempt this today.
As mentioned I purchased a replacement unit which also has the issue (its not installed yet), and the seller has given me the option of returning the one i bought, but it's so brand new looking i think it is worth trying to disassemble first.
Ill attempt this today.
I don't quite remember, it's been a while, but I think you just pull the rotating ***** off and there's a nut under each that holds the front panel and its buttons on.
The suspicision of spilt drink turned out to be a true!
Upon disassembly you will find trace amounts of sticky (cola in this case) located on the shell of the button(s) itself which slide in and out of the housing. Also, I can now see why cleaning it from the outside was unsuccessful as the ledge behind the face that the buttons rest against was caked with residue too.
Overall an easy fix and pretty straight forward to take apart.
Some clarification;
To clean once taken apart, I used hot water, some generic cleaner and a damp paper towel.
The ***** do not need to be removed.
The buttons will not fall out.
Just remove the 4 screws on the back and the guts will separate from the face. The only things that will fall out are two white tabs that push the arrow rocker button up/down. Just set them back into the two slots on the back of the face when putting back together.
To remove each button just depress the little lock tab on the bottom of them from the back. You'll see it..
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Defrost switch
