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Help - Service Charging System

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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:00 PM
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Default Help - Service Charging System

Beautiful day for a ride , get a mile from my house and I got the " SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM " on the DIC and the volt gage drops to 12 VOLTS so I know I am running on the battery ....

Drove the car right back home and turn it off and I tried restarting it ... same thing, then I unplug the connector on the alternator and plug it back in and the light goes out and the system is back to charging........ Cleaned the cables which had a fair amount of " Crud "built up on the positive side then drove it for about 20 miles problem free DIC was displaying 14.5 while moving dropping to 14.2 at lights ( with no load other than the running car )

Drove down to Auto Zone and had the battery which is only a year old tested and its still like brand new measured 678 CCA on a 650 CCA battery . Starter checked out fine as it had normal cranking draw and stared the car in less that 2 seconds

Now here is my question , when testing the alternator the DIC displayed 14.4 volts under no load, the test equipment used stated the same 14.4

Under a load , headlights , high beams , air-conditioner on high the DIC read 13.8 to 14.0 but the test equipment which was hooked directly to the battery read 14.3

Has anyone seen this .... is there a ground or BCM/ECM connector I need to check ? Or is this normal under a heavy load ?

Dave

Last edited by Dcasole; Apr 9, 2017 at 06:01 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:07 PM
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Normal. Might check connections at starter. Known pinch point for voltage/amps.

I ran a 1/0 copper strand wire from Alt to the power take off post on the side of the fuse box. Disconnected the original output wire from the Alt, cut end off and shrink wrapped it twice. Then zip tied it under new cable to make sure it could not short out. Have not had any problems since.
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wayback
Normal. Might check connections at starter. Known pinch point for voltage/amps.

I ran a 1/0 copper strand wire from Alt to the power take off post on the side of the fuse box. Disconnected the original output wire from the Alt, cut end off and shrink wrapped it twice. Then zip tied it under new cable to make sure it could not short out. Have not had any problems since.
So you ran a new "FEED" directly from the alternator output to the post on the fuse box ? If I cant figure it out I think I will try that , how did you run the wire across to the fuse box ?

Dave
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:32 PM
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Ran it along the heater hoses under the air bridge. You probably would not notice it. Got it from Orielly pre made with heavy duty ends. Used zip ties to secure it.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/si...0358&ppt=C0005


Here is the old one tied to the new bigger one. I pulled it out so you could see it.
Here it is hidden again.






Here is where I connected to the car. Cut out some of the fuse box lid so it shuts over the new cable.

Last edited by wayback; Apr 9, 2017 at 06:41 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 07:41 PM
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Thanks !!

Dave
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 07:51 PM
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My alt burned out so I upgraded to a Bilitt Tech 170A unit. It puts out 14.6 volts at idle even under max load. There is a vendor here that sells them.
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