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Is this a weak battery problem ?

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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 07:26 PM
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Took a ride today and had the AC on. Air coming out was cold but couldn't get the vents to operate right. When switched to the upper vents the air was not coming out strong enough in the center vents and corner vents. Turned the fan up and it does come out more but not like it should. When switched to the floor vents it comes out much stronger. Seems like the duct valve are not directing the air fully to the upper vents only partially. With all the odd stories I hear about what a low or bad battery can cause I'm wondering if this could be one of them. I was going to replace the battery before my trip (last week in May) anyway. 4 years 8 months old. 2013GS Hoping it's that easy to fix the problem.
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 07:41 PM
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Hi, wouldn't of thought it was a battery fault..
the battery is mainly there as a storage vessel for electricity to purely start the car... after that the alternator takes over and runs all the electrics and charges the battery at the same time...as long as you have over 13.7 volts at idle the alternator is ok.
fault I would say would be maybe a vacuum leak on heater controls if they are vacuum or binding linkage
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 07:50 PM
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Thanks, does anyone know how to get to the heater controls or vacuum lines that would operate the vents ??? Any help on this would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 09:33 PM
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Before I dug into the controls, I'd disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect to reset the a/c doors. Doesn't cost anything and it might take care of it. If you're suspicious of the battery because of slow cranking or other symptoms, then I suppose it's possible that the battery voltage may be dropping below a minimum to keep things set. I had a C5 once that had an 8 yr old Delco battery and it still cranked the car, but if you monitored the voltage during crank it would drop down to the 8v range and a lot of the presets would default to factory, like the HUD page and some memory settings.
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Before I dug into the controls, I'd disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect to reset the a/c doors. Doesn't cost anything and it might take care of it. If you're suspicious of the battery because of slow cranking or other symptoms, then I suppose it's possible that the battery voltage may be dropping below a minimum to keep things set. I had a C5 once that had an 8 yr old Delco battery and it still cranked the car, but if you monitored the voltage during crank it would drop down to the 8v range and a lot of the presets would default to factory, like the HUD page and some memory settings.
If I disconnect the battery will I lose All my settings ?
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 10:06 PM
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no, just will have to re-index the windows..............
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tealex
If I disconnect the battery will I lose All my settings ?
Even if you lost the settings, wouldn't you still disconnect the battery to fix your a/c problem instead of going into the a/c, or worse, the dealer? I believe you will have to reset the time. The C5 clock defaults to 1:00, don't recall on the C6.
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rkj427
no, just will have to re-index the windows..............


That's supposed to be true, but I had to reset the mirrors after disconnecting the battery the last time. Radio and everything else was fine.
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 11:06 PM
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Thanks all, I'll let you know the results tomorrow.
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Old Apr 30, 2017 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tealex
Thanks all, I'll let you know the results tomorrow.
There is also a reset procedure for your AC: it is for the outside temp, not sure what else if anything it does. Fairly easy to do, worth a try.

When the Front Defrost, Rear Defog and fan up buttons are pressed simultaneously. Updates temperature display instantly.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 08:00 PM
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Problem solved...........I replaced the battery, don't know if it was disconnecting the battery for a while or the new battery that did it but now the ducts work fine. Old battery at rest read 12.06 volts so from the information given here I guess it very well could have been the battery. As always this forum has been a great help. Like one big family all helping each other, I think it's great. Thanks again. PS: I've changed my share of batteries over the years but none that was this difficult. Very hard to get out, Pos. cable in the way. New battery was about 1/2 inch taller, needed new clamp down rods. Being in the rear compartment also means covering the rear spoiler and fender very good, no scratches!!
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Old May 2, 2017 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tealex
Problem solved...........I replaced the battery, don't know if it was disconnecting the battery for a while or the new battery that did it but now the ducts work fine. Old battery at rest read 12.06 volts so from the information given here I guess it very well could have been the battery. As always this forum has been a great help. Like one big family all helping each other, I think it's great. Thanks again. PS: I've changed my share of batteries over the years but none that was this difficult. Very hard to get out, Pos. cable in the way. New battery was about 1/2 inch taller, needed new clamp down rods. Being in the rear compartment also means covering the rear spoiler and fender very good, no scratches!!
The voltage measurement across a battery doesn't tell you much. It could be very weak yet still measure 12+ volts.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:49 PM
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I'm just so glad the problem with the vents is fixed and I don't have to take the car to the dreaded Dealers or anywhere else. Appreciate all the help on here and hope to see some of you at the Vettes 4 Vets in Talladega in 3 weeks.
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Old May 6, 2017 | 10:16 AM
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Installed the new battery (Durlast Platinum AGM from Autozone) everything works fine but I don't like the voltage readings I'm getting. The info I'm getting in the forum tells me the battery should read 12.6 after a full charge. Bought the battery and charged it overnight on the workbench with battery tender. Next morning (green light on) disconnected the charger and 5 minutes later the reading was 12.33v. Went for a ride and it was charging at 14.3 - 14.7 (Alternator ok). Parked it in the garage and found 12.07v after shutting it off and opening car door to get out. 1 1/2 hours later 12.24v, later 12.22v, next morning 12.15, afternoon 12.14v, next morning 12.10v. What does your battery read if you have it setting for a day or two without the tender on? Should my battery voltage be higher or is it ok. Autozone says to bring it in and they will check it with a load test. I really don't want them hanging over the back of the car to get at the battery and I hate to take it back out again after the fight I had getting it in. Need some advice (again).

Last edited by tealex; May 6, 2017 at 10:18 AM.
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Old May 6, 2017 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tealex
Installed the new battery (Durlast Platinum AGM from Autozone) everything works fine but I don't like the voltage readings I'm getting. The info I'm getting in the forum tells me the battery should read 12.6 after a full charge. Bought the battery and charged it overnight on the workbench with battery tender. Next morning (green light on) disconnected the charger and 5 minutes later the reading was 12.33v. Went for a ride and it was charging at 14.3 - 14.7 (Alternator ok). Parked it in the garage and found 12.07v after shutting it off and opening car door to get out. 1 1/2 hours later 12.24v, later 12.22v, next morning 12.15, afternoon 12.14v, next morning 12.10v. What does your battery read if you have it setting for a day or two without the tender on? Should my battery voltage be higher or is it ok. Autozone says to bring it in and they will check it with a load test. I really don't want them hanging over the back of the car to get at the battery and I hate to take it back out again after the fight I had getting it in. Need some advice (again).
Boy, you've got a lot of minor voltage variations there! The next thing I'd check is for corroded or loose grounds. Just one "touchy" ground wire can cause a myriad of symptoms. With the voltages you list, your readings are just a tad low for having just run the car and then shutting it off. After you get out of your car and close the door, the system draws a bit of current, but after two or three minutes, the current draw should drop (interior lights off, security system set, etc.). After checking the grounds and battery terminal connectors for corrosion or looseness, I'd look for battery voltages of 12.6 or so, possible a little less, but not as low as 12.07. You might also connect an ammeter between the positive terminal of the battery and the positive connector for the battery and see what you current draw is with the car sitting parked, lights and all accessories OFF. It should be well under 1 amp. Best of luck in your trouble shooting!

Steve
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Old May 6, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tealex
Installed the new battery (Durlast Platinum AGM from Autozone) everything works fine but I don't like the voltage readings I'm getting. The info I'm getting in the forum tells me the battery should read 12.6 after a full charge. Bought the battery and charged it overnight on the workbench with battery tender. Next morning (green light on) disconnected the charger and 5 minutes later the reading was 12.33v. Went for a ride and it was charging at 14.3 - 14.7 (Alternator ok). Parked it in the garage and found 12.07v after shutting it off and opening car door to get out. 1 1/2 hours later 12.24v, later 12.22v, next morning 12.15, afternoon 12.14v, next morning 12.10v. What does your battery read if you have it setting for a day or two without the tender on? Should my battery voltage be higher or is it ok. Autozone says to bring it in and they will check it with a load test. I really don't want them hanging over the back of the car to get at the battery and I hate to take it back out again after the fight I had getting it in. Need some advice (again).
Maybe you are doing this anyway (it's not clear to me) but if you want to know what the battery voltage is, make sure you isolate it and check with a hand meter only across the battery terminals themselves.

If it reads low by doing this, then I would have AZ load test it.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:04 AM
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mine varies from 11.8-12v (I use the DIC to read)

Originally Posted by tealex
Installed the new battery (Durlast Platinum AGM from Autozone) everything works fine but I don't like the voltage readings I'm getting. The info I'm getting in the forum tells me the battery should read 12.6 after a full charge. Bought the battery and charged it overnight on the workbench with battery tender. Next morning (green light on) disconnected the charger and 5 minutes later the reading was 12.33v. Went for a ride and it was charging at 14.3 - 14.7 (Alternator ok). Parked it in the garage and found 12.07v after shutting it off and opening car door to get out. 1 1/2 hours later 12.24v, later 12.22v, next morning 12.15, afternoon 12.14v, next morning 12.10v. What does your battery read if you have it setting for a day or two without the tender on? Should my battery voltage be higher or is it ok. Autozone says to bring it in and they will check it with a load test. I really don't want them hanging over the back of the car to get at the battery and I hate to take it back out again after the fight I had getting it in. Need some advice (again).
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