A6 won't shift out of park - root cause found
07-03-2017, 10:49 AM
#41
How hard was it to get the boot back?....and did it go back completely ?
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hotrod3497 (01-03-2022)
07-03-2017, 12:03 PM
#42
Not hard at all, I just inserted the edge of the boot into the groove of the foam that surrounds the opening. I used my finger tip to run the edge into the groove, almost like running a bead of a bike tire onto a rim.
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hotrod3497 (01-03-2022)
07-03-2017, 12:18 PM
#43
Drifting
Thread Starter
My only concern would be knowing if you got the boot all the way down over the edge of the surround that it fits around. When I pulled mine up, I noticed it fit down pretty far over the lip of the plastic surround, and sort of "snapped" the elastic cord in it over the edge.
Last edited by CSixDude; 07-03-2017 at 12:22 PM.
07-03-2017, 02:45 PM
#44
Thanks for posting this. I wondered if you could pull up the boot without removing the console. Sounds like this might be a good shortcut to get to the switches.
My only concern would be knowing if you got the boot all the way down over the edge of the surround that it fits around. When I pulled mine up, I noticed it fit down pretty far over the lip of the plastic surround, and sort of "snapped" the elastic cord in it over the edge.
My only concern would be knowing if you got the boot all the way down over the edge of the surround that it fits around. When I pulled mine up, I noticed it fit down pretty far over the lip of the plastic surround, and sort of "snapped" the elastic cord in it over the edge.
07-03-2017, 02:55 PM
#45
07-03-2017, 04:12 PM
#46
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Left Coast, San Diego
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I hate to admit this but what the hell. When I pulled my interior out to insulate I tried to remove the boot from around the shifter. It did pull up out of the way but the area around the letters, R, N, D..etc, would not come loose. I was afraid I would break or tear the boot so I put the boot back on for another time! I was able to remove the complete interior but could not get the shifter apart. Not sure where I went wrong. I was so close. Kinda sucks. GO FIGURE
May be bothering you guys during my next attempt!!
May be bothering you guys during my next attempt!!
Last edited by Vet Interested; 07-12-2017 at 05:50 PM.
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ValenciaOrange (11-05-2021)
07-12-2017, 12:18 PM
#47
Melting Slicks
So, to clarify, the actual boot can be removed by simply pulling up on it? I want to adjust the micro switch as my '06 is starting to remain in Park at the most inconvenient times.
Thank you for your research!
Well, I went ahead and pulled the surround off to gain access to the bottom of the boot and adjusted the arm on the micro switch. I would like to report success at this point. If it isn't a prolonged fix, it can easily be replaced.
Thanks again!
WR
Thank you for your research!
Well, I went ahead and pulled the surround off to gain access to the bottom of the boot and adjusted the arm on the micro switch. I would like to report success at this point. If it isn't a prolonged fix, it can easily be replaced.
Thanks again!
WR
Last edited by Wrangler Rich; 07-12-2017 at 05:40 PM.
07-14-2017, 06:17 PM
#48
I'm going to say this is the correct fix. You don't even have to open it up until the switch quits working all together. Mine stuck again today 3rd time in a couple of months. Alls I did was put my foot on the brake pushed the shifter forward heard the shift lock click and pulled back and off I went. Tells me right there it has nothing to do with the lock that everybody is cutting or tying back it is the switch that releases the lock...... Thank you CSixDude
07-14-2017, 07:20 PM
#49
I'm going to say this is the correct fix. You don't even have to open it up until the switch quits working all together. Mine stuck again today 3rd time in a couple of months. Alls I did was put my foot on the brake pushed the shifter forward heard the shift lock click and pulled back and off I went. Tells me right there it has nothing to do with the lock that everybody is cutting or tying back it is the switch that releases the lock...... Thank you CSixDude
This problem is progressive, and virtually all of us who were In your shoes, thought the same thing and went through the same process.
Every one one of us found out that everyone before us knew the real story, and you, too, will find out that the only permanent fix is dealing with the pawl in some manner.
07-14-2017, 09:31 PM
#50
At the risk of sounding glib, you know nothing Jon Snow!
This problem is progressive, and virtually all of us who were In your shoes, thought the same thing and went through the same process.
Every one one of us found out that everyone before us knew the real story, and you, too, will find out that the only permanent fix is dealing with the pawl in some manner.
This problem is progressive, and virtually all of us who were In your shoes, thought the same thing and went through the same process.
Every one one of us found out that everyone before us knew the real story, and you, too, will find out that the only permanent fix is dealing with the pawl in some manner.
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firemanast (08-24-2017)
07-16-2017, 09:35 AM
#52
Melting Slicks
The bottom line, guys, is that GM needs to do a recall an all these floor shifters for automatic transmissions across their entire platform.
The use of inferior parts is causing major problems, costing their customers many dollars and inconvenient, unnecessary delays.
Our arguing about the best way to correct a problem that should have never occurred in the first place is not healthy.
Ok, I'm off my soap box.
WR
The use of inferior parts is causing major problems, costing their customers many dollars and inconvenient, unnecessary delays.
Our arguing about the best way to correct a problem that should have never occurred in the first place is not healthy.
Ok, I'm off my soap box.
WR
Last edited by Wrangler Rich; 07-16-2017 at 09:36 AM.
07-16-2017, 03:11 PM
#53
At the risk of sounding glib, you know nothing Jon Snow!
This problem is progressive, and virtually all of us who were In your shoes, thought the same thing and went through the same process.
Every one one of us found out that everyone before us knew the real story, and you, too, will find out that the only permanent fix is dealing with the pawl in some manner.
This problem is progressive, and virtually all of us who were In your shoes, thought the same thing and went through the same process.
Every one one of us found out that everyone before us knew the real story, and you, too, will find out that the only permanent fix is dealing with the pawl in some manner.
Unfortunately owc6 is spot on. One can fiddle with all the "newest" proclaimed fixes for this problem all they want.....sooner or later the pawl is gonna have to be tended to.....or just keep replacing bad GM parts...
07-16-2017, 06:24 PM
#54
Drifting
Thread Starter
Not sure what all the fuss is about. It's simply a microswitch wearing out. Either the metal arm is loosing it's spring tension over time, or the internal contacts are going bad. A new switch costs a whopping $2. If you want to tie back the pawl, then go for it. I simply chose to dig a little deeper and find out what was going wrong.
Last edited by CSixDude; 07-16-2017 at 06:25 PM.
08-02-2017, 09:10 PM
#55
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just noticed something else tonight. When you put the car in park, the daytime running lights shut off, and I suspect this function is controlled by one of the two micro-switches in the shifter mechanism. So if you have a bad switch, your DRL may stay on when you put the car in park.
08-06-2017, 10:49 AM
#56
2nd Gear
Member Since: Jul 2017
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Thanks so much for the responses. I now feel like a solution is in sight. Too bad the car dealerships are not informed about this. They have all said, "Never heard of the problem". Go figure . . . . .
08-16-2017, 09:01 AM
#57
After having some discussion about this on another thread, I decided to go out and take another look at this issue.
The problem many folks are having with the A6 not shifting out of park is usually solved by employing some method to "tie back" the shift lock controller arm. This works, but it has issues of its own, as it defeats the theft deterrent of the transmission lock and may also allow the car to be started in gear by accident.
Upon closer examination, the problem is not with the solenoid at all, but is instead with the tiny switch that senses when the car is in park. If this switch isn't "made" or closed, then it won't allow the solenoid to release when you apply the brake. If you have an A6 and you don't hear your shift lock release solenoid make a distinct CLICK when you apply the brakes, then this is most likely your problem.
The fix is simple. Just apply a little self adhesive foam to the gear shift lever where it contacts the microswitch as shown in photos attached. This is all you need to make sure the switch gets pushed far enough forward to make contact, thus allowing your solenoid to work like it should.
Also, make note that there are TWO microswitches in the gear shift assy right next to each other. The one you need the foam shim on is circled in the photos.
The problem many folks are having with the A6 not shifting out of park is usually solved by employing some method to "tie back" the shift lock controller arm. This works, but it has issues of its own, as it defeats the theft deterrent of the transmission lock and may also allow the car to be started in gear by accident.
Upon closer examination, the problem is not with the solenoid at all, but is instead with the tiny switch that senses when the car is in park. If this switch isn't "made" or closed, then it won't allow the solenoid to release when you apply the brake. If you have an A6 and you don't hear your shift lock release solenoid make a distinct CLICK when you apply the brakes, then this is most likely your problem.
The fix is simple. Just apply a little self adhesive foam to the gear shift lever where it contacts the microswitch as shown in photos attached. This is all you need to make sure the switch gets pushed far enough forward to make contact, thus allowing your solenoid to work like it should.
Also, make note that there are TWO microswitches in the gear shift assy right next to each other. The one you need the foam shim on is circled in the photos.
08-21-2017, 04:54 PM
#59
With a properly working shifter, there is absolutely no need to "Push the lever forward". All that does is press the failing microswitch a little more so that it is forced into the position it is supposed to be in when the car is in park. When the microswitch gets worse, this too will begin to stop working until you are stuck somewhere and cannot get your car out of park.
Placing something on the switch like the OP did does in fact work but I believe is a bandaid and will also eventually fail when the microswitch contacts wear out more. Replacing the microswitch like I have done may also prove non-permanent as I just used cheap switches similat to what GM used.
My opinion is that the only true fix for this is to use the correct HIGH QUALITY microswitches that will last repeated cycles at the voltage and current used by the circuit. However, this is yet to be determined by me as I am not an electrical engineer and have not yet measured the current flow that these switches are subject to.
As soon as I have some time (and the energy to tear out my console again) I will measure the current and consult with an EE and find out the optimal contact type and material for the application and see if I can source better switches. It am however a little unmotivated because the cheap replacement switches I installed are working perfectly for now.
Later this summer, I am going to tweak a stereo install that prompted me to look at the shifter in the first place and discovered the bad microswitch. I will make my measurements at that time, consult with an EE and try to determine if there are better switches available.
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hotrod3497 (01-03-2022)
08-23-2017, 08:24 AM
#60
Le Mans Master
I am currently using the push forward fix and I agree, eventually it will fail. But it should get harder and harder before it fails completely. Currently it is working without the push at least 75% of the time. Temperature seems to be a factor.
But this comment is really to point out that the push forward procedure given is more complex than needed. You don't have to take your foot off the brake. Just push forward until you hear the click. I also note that left forward moves the lever and switch slightly more than right forward. I also seem to have less trouble if I make sure it clicks when I stop the engine.
But this comment is really to point out that the push forward procedure given is more complex than needed. You don't have to take your foot off the brake. Just push forward until you hear the click. I also note that left forward moves the lever and switch slightly more than right forward. I also seem to have less trouble if I make sure it clicks when I stop the engine.
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ValenciaOrange (11-05-2021)