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I have a Borla Atak axle back exhaust that I am going to try to install in my garage without a lift. I DON'T want to cut off my stock exhaust in case I have issues with the new one.
My question is: how high do I need to get the back end of the car off the ground in order to remove it in one piece?
I had an experience with my C5 where I couldn't get it high enough. I want to avoid that again.
Before you tell me to try a muffler shop...I've already been to a muffler shop (obviously not a good one) and he couldn't get one of the new ones on. He said it won't line up. Cost me time and money and I'm frustrated.
Jack stands front and rear will work. I used a QuickJack. You need to remove the X-Pipe first. Disconnect it it front and rear first, lay on your back and grab the front of the X-Pipe, and the wiggle the snot out of it as you pull towards the front of the car.
Disconnect the inner rear sway bar mounts and let the sway bar hang down. Then remove the muffler mounts, and twist the axle back as you pull it out from the rear. I hear if you have an Automatic you have to hold your tongue just right because the clearance is tighter.
Install in the reverse order. Before you tighten all hardware, make sure the tips are lined up correctly.
Thanks for the info. I do have an automatic.
I'll put it up on jack stands this week - highest ones in the rear - and try to pull the stock exhaust over the axle.
I am feeling a little defeated after this mornings episode so I need to regather my patience before trying this myself.
I installed Borla S-Type II on my coupe with the help of a forum buddy. I have a M6 manual though. I had NPP exhaust (don't know if that makes a difference). I did have a lift to use. I will say that you will need to get your car up a high a possible if you want to pull the exhaust out with out cutting the over axle pipes.
We did disconnect the mid pipe to make it easier but it still took some maneuvering to wiggly the OEM exhaust out. ALSO, disconnect the rear sway bar and get it loose so you can move it around some if necessary.
I was very glad that I had a lift to get it up high. It can be done on jack stands but it will be a lot more difficult.
I did mine on jack stands it was difficult but can be done without cutting anything as others have said get it as high as you can, also you need the front up fairly high to get to the H pipe connections, i was told the donut gaskets were not necessary to replace, but they were so cheap at Autozone i replaced them anyway, lastly i had a problem on mine installing the new over axle pipes back into the h pipe, my remedy was to go back to the auto store and borrow their muffler pipe expander, without going nuts i expanded the h pipe just back to perfect round, it must have gotten a little ovaled when i was fighting with the old exhaust trying to get it out, once that was corrected they slipped in like butter.
I backed mine up on ramps, disconnected the sway bar mounts and rotated the bar down out of the way, and was able to install a factory NPP muffler set on mine without a problem. As noted, clearance is tight on an automatic so you just have to rotate things around until you find the correct angle for things to go into place properly.
I backed mine up on ramps, disconnected the sway bar mounts and rotated the bar down out of the way, and was able to install a factory NPP muffler set on mine without a problem. As noted, clearance is tight on an automatic so you just have to rotate things around until you find the correct angle for things to go into place properly.
Here is a little tip if you have the A6. For the driver side you need to put the shifter down to the "S " position so you have clearance of the shift cable. It makes it so much easier to get that over axle pipe off.
Don
I decided to try the install myself while we were having some nice weather. I WAS able to do this on jack stands, but they were pretty high.
The stock exhaust just barely came out when turning it at the right angles. I did NOT need to cut it.
Installing the Borla exhaust was pretty straightforward as I used the instructions from another forum member who did a nice DIY with pictures.
I used anti-seize lubricant on the pipes where they joined so that I could maneuver them to the proper angles during installation. This could be why the "professional" at Meineke could not figure out how to get it lined up. He could not adjust them properly because he had trouble twisting them. It is still hard to believe he couldn't do this after 2 hours and had a lift.
Initial impression is that it sounds great. The new exhaust sounds much more aggressive than the stock exhaust. I am going to run for a few weeks and then I will post again with my impressions. I want to make sure it does not have drone on the highway as advertised.
The car is not sitting on the ramps. They are just there for protection.
Great job. Glad you got it done. I think you will love the new Borla exhaust. I got the Borla -Type II because I wasn't sure if the Atak would be too loud for me.
So much more rewarding when you do it yourself isn't it?
congrats, I have changed mine a couple times and used my race ramps, also did the x pipe and tunnel plate while under there.
06-24-2017, 03:14 PM
Exhaust removal - how high do I need the car?
