Creaking Top
#1
Racer
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Creaking Top - Help needed
I'm at my wits end with my creaking top. It's so bad I'm considering just selling the car because it's just not fun to drive with all the creaking.
I've researched the forum and tried all the tips, all to no avail. Until while trying to tighten the latches, I discovered that the latch on the drivers side will not tighten down properly due to the bolt hole that holds the bolt for the latch is stripped out. I have a feeling this is my issue. I'm not really excited about, and likely will not be, purchasing a new top or frame, so I'm looking for ideas on how to repair it in hopes that I can tighten the bolt enough to allow for proper tension on that latch.
The two options that I've considered are to either use an epoxy in the hole and on the bolt or to tap it out and use a helicoil.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? If so, how did you resolve the issue?
Any thoughts, opinions, advice?
Thanks, in advance!
I've researched the forum and tried all the tips, all to no avail. Until while trying to tighten the latches, I discovered that the latch on the drivers side will not tighten down properly due to the bolt hole that holds the bolt for the latch is stripped out. I have a feeling this is my issue. I'm not really excited about, and likely will not be, purchasing a new top or frame, so I'm looking for ideas on how to repair it in hopes that I can tighten the bolt enough to allow for proper tension on that latch.
The two options that I've considered are to either use an epoxy in the hole and on the bolt or to tap it out and use a helicoil.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? If so, how did you resolve the issue?
Any thoughts, opinions, advice?
Thanks, in advance!
Last edited by C5Brian; 06-26-2017 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Changing wording to allow more detail
#2
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#7
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I appreciate all the replies, so far.
Unfortunately, I've tried all these and they have not corrected the issue. Again, I believe it's the stripped hole.
Also, this seems to be very specific bolt, so I don't think tapping it and using a larger bolt will work, either. That's why I was inquiring about filling it with epoxy or using a helicoil.
Unfortunately, I've tried all these and they have not corrected the issue. Again, I believe it's the stripped hole.
Also, this seems to be very specific bolt, so I don't think tapping it and using a larger bolt will work, either. That's why I was inquiring about filling it with epoxy or using a helicoil.
#8
Melting Slicks
I appreciate all the replies, so far.
Unfortunately, I've tried all these and they have not corrected the issue. Again, I believe it's the stripped hole.
Also, this seems to be very specific bolt, so I don't think tapping it and using a larger bolt will work, either. That's why I was inquiring about filling it with epoxy or using a helicoil.
Unfortunately, I've tried all these and they have not corrected the issue. Again, I believe it's the stripped hole.
Also, this seems to be very specific bolt, so I don't think tapping it and using a larger bolt will work, either. That's why I was inquiring about filling it with epoxy or using a helicoil.
#9
Melting Slicks
I have tried every fix that has ever been posted on this forum. Nothing solved the creaking issue completely. As of now, the top only creaks the first mile or so after if drive off. It settles down after that.
The single worst designed feature that I've ever had on a car.
The single worst designed feature that I've ever had on a car.
Last edited by car2fast4you; 06-27-2017 at 04:47 PM.
#11
Le Mans Master
#12
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I have tried every fix that has ever been posted on this forum. Nothing solved the creaking issue completely. As of now, the top only creaks the first mile or so after if drive off. It settles down after that.
The single worst designed feature that I've ever had on a car.
The single worst designed feature that I've ever had on a car.
#13
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#15
Melting Slicks
The best advise I can give you, if you tackle the job is drilling and taping the hole as straight as possible. Or bring it to someone that has experience with thread repairing. Once the insert is installed, it will be stronger that original.
#16
Instructor
Good luck. I did the steps in the video that was posted as well as the o-ring mod. It helped slightly, but still creaks. I guess it matches the rest of the panel rattles and squeaks of the cheap interior.
Last edited by Vet With A Vette; 06-28-2017 at 02:19 PM.
#17
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Yes I have. I would have to look at the top and see what type of difficulty you may have with this procedure. Best if the hole that needs repairing is not blind, meaning you can see daylight through the hole. This makes it easier of a procedure, as you can drill and tap right through cleanly. You won't have to use special blind hole bottoming taps, another words.
The best advise I can give you, if you tackle the job is drilling and taping the hole as straight as possible. Or bring it to someone that has experience with thread repairing. Once the insert is installed, it will be stronger that original.
The best advise I can give you, if you tackle the job is drilling and taping the hole as straight as possible. Or bring it to someone that has experience with thread repairing. Once the insert is installed, it will be stronger that original.
Sounds like you don't think I should attempt the epoxy, but just go straight to the helicoil? May go ahead and order the kit, tomorrow. This has got to stop!
Last edited by C5Brian; 06-29-2017 at 12:52 AM. Reason: Update wording
#18
Melting Slicks
No, don't try epoxy. There's a lot of load on the bolt when the lever is in the closed position. Take it to a machinist, best bet, they will tell you what they can do to repair it.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#19
Tech Contributor
Two things....
- I'd helicoil the hole to retain the original bolt. Mixing and matching hardware will just add to the frustration, not to mention it looks like a ghetto fix.
- Although the creaks and groans are typically from the front, tightening the center latch will often solve most of them. To tighten the center latch, you need to loosen the set-screw and then tighten the center catch. Although it's trial and error, it often only takes one turn to do the trick.
- I'd helicoil the hole to retain the original bolt. Mixing and matching hardware will just add to the frustration, not to mention it looks like a ghetto fix.
- Although the creaks and groans are typically from the front, tightening the center latch will often solve most of them. To tighten the center latch, you need to loosen the set-screw and then tighten the center catch. Although it's trial and error, it often only takes one turn to do the trick.
Last edited by 96GS#007; 06-29-2017 at 12:13 PM.
#20
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Two things....
- I'd helicoil the hole to retain the original bolt. Mixing and matching hardware will just add to the frustration, not to mention it looks like a ghetto fix.
- Although the creaks and groans are typically from the front, tightening the center latch will often solve most of them. To tighten the center latch, you need to loosen the set-screw and then tighten the center catch. Although it's trial and error, it often only takes one turn to do the trick.
- I'd helicoil the hole to retain the original bolt. Mixing and matching hardware will just add to the frustration, not to mention it looks like a ghetto fix.
- Although the creaks and groans are typically from the front, tightening the center latch will often solve most of them. To tighten the center latch, you need to loosen the set-screw and then tighten the center catch. Although it's trial and error, it often only takes one turn to do the trick.
Hoping this fixes the issue! Thanks for all the replies!