Harmonic Balancer
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 411
Likes: 70
From: Grove City Ohio
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Harmonic Balancer
Ok so I've read many posts on replacing the balancer on my base 06 A6.
I plan on doing this next month, just a few questions.
1. Stock engine so will the Power bond PB1117N be a good choice or do I spend much more for the Power Bond PB1117SS. Car only driven a few thousand miles a year and never raced or beat on.
2. Go with a new stock bolt or the API bolt?
3. Does anyone have the Flex Plate lock tool to loan or sell a used one that they don't need anymore.
Thanks in advance
I plan on doing this next month, just a few questions.
1. Stock engine so will the Power bond PB1117N be a good choice or do I spend much more for the Power Bond PB1117SS. Car only driven a few thousand miles a year and never raced or beat on.
2. Go with a new stock bolt or the API bolt?
3. Does anyone have the Flex Plate lock tool to loan or sell a used one that they don't need anymore.
Thanks in advance
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,583
Likes: 1,664
From: Pearland / Houston Tx
I did it last weekend...see my recent write-up.
I went with that balancer. Good looking part. An option if you don't need SFI and don't want OEM. About 70 bucks shipped from Rockauto (get a 5% off discount code)
I went with the stock bolt using the torque-to-yield method. I felt the ARP bolt was recommended to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Lock tool is 25 bucks on eBay...don't need to spend any more. That crank didn't budge a bit with it in place.
also consider replacing the PS pressure hose while in there. The 05-07 models had the short hose that is prone to fail. The replacement is the longer 08+ one and worth the 60 extra bucks to do at the same time.
I went with that balancer. Good looking part. An option if you don't need SFI and don't want OEM. About 70 bucks shipped from Rockauto (get a 5% off discount code)
I went with the stock bolt using the torque-to-yield method. I felt the ARP bolt was recommended to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Lock tool is 25 bucks on eBay...don't need to spend any more. That crank didn't budge a bit with it in place.
also consider replacing the PS pressure hose while in there. The 05-07 models had the short hose that is prone to fail. The replacement is the longer 08+ one and worth the 60 extra bucks to do at the same time.
Last edited by C6ToGo; Oct 5, 2017 at 08:42 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
might as well use an ARP bolt. Powerbond is just fine EVEN if you have mods, but why not consider the Powerbond SFI unit, my LS2 got noticeably smoother. I'm going to get flamed but I took my shock HB off with an 1/2 impact and on the advice of a well known shop who I won't identify. I reinstalled it with an ARP bolt and the same impact, after seating it with a HB installation tool, I then took an offset 12 point box end wrench{with on end cut off} and a piece of pipe, just for good measure.
Last edited by CMY SIX; Oct 5, 2017 at 08:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 411
Likes: 70
From: Grove City Ohio
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I did it last weekend...see my recent write-up.
I went with that balancer. Good looking part. An option if you don't need SFI and don't want OEM. About 70 bucks shipped from Rockauto (get a 5% off discount code)
I went with the stock bolt using the torque-to-yield method. I felt the ARP bolt was recommended to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Lock tool is 25 bucks on eBay...don't need to spend any more. That crank didn't budge a bit with it in place.
also consider replacing the PS pressure hose while in there. The 05-07 models had the short hose that is prone to fail. The replacement is the longer 08+ one and worth the 60 extra bucks to do at the same time.
I went with that balancer. Good looking part. An option if you don't need SFI and don't want OEM. About 70 bucks shipped from Rockauto (get a 5% off discount code)
I went with the stock bolt using the torque-to-yield method. I felt the ARP bolt was recommended to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Lock tool is 25 bucks on eBay...don't need to spend any more. That crank didn't budge a bit with it in place.
also consider replacing the PS pressure hose while in there. The 05-07 models had the short hose that is prone to fail. The replacement is the longer 08+ one and worth the 60 extra bucks to do at the same time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 1,546
From: Florida
might as well use an ARP bolt. Powerbond is just fine EVEN if you have mods, but why not consider the Powerbond SFI unit, my LS2 got noticeably smoother. I'm going to get flamed but I took my shock HB off with an 1/2 impact and on the advice of a well known shop who I won't identify. I reinstalled it with an ARP bolt and the same impact, after seating it with a HB installation tool, I then took an offset 12 point box end wrench{with on end cut off} and a piece of pipe, just for good measure.
This is precious and I'd hate to see it lost in a delete.
Last edited by BlindSpot; Oct 6, 2017 at 08:08 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 188
From: Austin TX
Ok so I've read many posts on replacing the balancer on my base 06 A6.
I plan on doing this next month, just a few questions.
1. Stock engine so will the Power bond PB1117N be a good choice or do I spend much more for the Power Bond PB1117SS. Car only driven a few thousand miles a year and never raced or beat on.
2. Go with a new stock bolt or the API bolt?
3. Does anyone have the Flex Plate lock tool to loan or sell a used one that they don't need anymore.
Thanks in advance
I plan on doing this next month, just a few questions.
1. Stock engine so will the Power bond PB1117N be a good choice or do I spend much more for the Power Bond PB1117SS. Car only driven a few thousand miles a year and never raced or beat on.
2. Go with a new stock bolt or the API bolt?
3. Does anyone have the Flex Plate lock tool to loan or sell a used one that they don't need anymore.
Thanks in advance
Oh, and go with the SS model. I asked the same question before I did mine. The N model is just an OEM replacement. Go with something a little more sturdy.
Last edited by schizcat; Oct 6, 2017 at 05:35 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 411
Likes: 70
From: Grove City Ohio
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Also do a search for RPMExtra (I think) or one of my past threads regarding this procedure. He describes how he is able to move the ps rack without actually unhooking the lines and dumping fluid. Trust me, it is worth it.
Oh, and go with the SS model. I asked the same question before I did mine. The N model is just an OEM replacement. Go with something a little more sturdy.
Oh, and go with the SS model. I asked the same question before I did mine. The N model is just an OEM replacement. Go with something a little more sturdy.
