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Harmonic Balancer Bolt

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Old 10-15-2017, 11:44 PM
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1restoman1
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Default Harmonic Balancer Bolt

Ok so I've got the rack out of my 06- A6. Have tried 3 different 1/2" impact guns and the HB Bolt won't budge. Does anyone know if the factory put locktite on them. I'm not not the orignal owner and it doesn't appear that the HB was replaced. There is some telltale orange/red color around the washer.
I have the flexplate holding tool on order, but thought I'd only need it for the install. If I use it for the removal with a big breaker bar and possibly a cheater pipe I'm hoping the bolt won't break.
Anyone with suggestions?
Old 10-16-2017, 02:03 AM
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simplegto
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Try a strap wrench on the balancer to hold it tight so the impact will brake it loose.
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Old 10-16-2017, 03:32 AM
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Mike44665
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My $0.02, flywheel lock. You have to have a good solid hold on the crank to torque the new bolt and this will help with the removal.
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Old 10-16-2017, 03:58 AM
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HK770
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Flywheel lock and a 4' cheater bar on that bolt, ought be enough! You are aware they torqued at 240 # ft ?


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0

Last edited by HK770; 10-16-2017 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 10-16-2017, 06:12 AM
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Whis9
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Originally Posted by HK770
Flywheel lock and a 4' cheater bar on that bolt, ought be enough! You are aware they torqued at 240 # ft ?


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0
that is the ticket right there
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Old 10-16-2017, 08:12 AM
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BlindSpot
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I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar which is about 22" long already, with a 2' extension. The factory bolt is actually tighter than 240#s. 240 is the torque spec for an aftermarket bolt which is case hardened so it cannot be torqued to yield as the soft crankshaft would yield and pull the threads out way sooner than a case hardened bolt will yield.

The factory bolt is soft, no case hardening, so the factory torque/yield spec of 140* puts far more torque than 240#s.

You need a BIG breaker bar. And, yes, the factory bolt does have loctite applied.

Last edited by BlindSpot; 10-16-2017 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 10-16-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by simplegto
Try a strap wrench on the balancer to hold it tight so the impact will brake it loose.
Thanks for the reply,but the balancer is not turning (engine) so the strap wrench won't help
Old 10-16-2017, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by HK770
Flywheel lock and a 4' cheater bar on that bolt, ought be enough! You are aware they torqued at 240 # ft ?


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0
Thanks, yes I'm aware of the torque settings and the flywheel lock is ordered. Should be here in a few days
Old 10-16-2017, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BlindSpot
I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar which is about 22" long already, with a 2' extension. The factory bolt is actually tighter than 240#s. 240 is the torque spec for an aftermarket bolt which is case hardened so it cannot be torqued to yield as the soft crankshaft would yield and pull the threads out way sooner than a case hardened bolt will yield.

The factory bolt is soft, no case hardening, so the factory torque/yield spec of 140* puts far more torque than 240#s.

You need a BIG breaker bar. And, yes, the factory bolt does have loctite applied.
Thanks for all the info. I'll have to wait for the flywheel lock and then try it. I have a 3/4 breaker bar also. Thought my 400 ft lb air gun would have shocked it loose
Old 10-16-2017, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 1restoman1
Thanks for all the info. I'll have to wait for the flywheel lock and then try it. I have a 3/4 breaker bar also. Thought my 400 ft lb air gun would have shocked it loose
Yes, you definitely must lock the flywheel down. It'll go with a solid breaker bar and extension. I use a 2' piece of 1" black pipe on my 22" breaker bar. It is going "snap" so make sure your knuckles have some clearance and not pointed at any sharp objects. I use a pair of leather gloves to get past the snap.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 1restoman1
Thanks for all the info. I'll have to wait for the flywheel lock and then try it. I have a 3/4 breaker bar also. Thought my 400 ft lb air gun would have shocked it loose
You really need a minimum of about 600 pd. gun. And then it's still not gonna break the bolt loose like it would a lug nut. In other words it won't give about 6-7 hammer blows and then fly off. It could take a few seconds for the bolt to turn enough to loosen completely. When taking out the big bolts I usually mark them so I can keep an eye on them to be sure they are turning. A 20 ft. breaker bar will of course work as most suggest, but I sure wouldn't want to mess with that if i could get my hands on a 600 pd. or stronger gun......good luck.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by HK770
Flywheel lock and a 4' cheater bar on that bolt, ought be enough! You are aware they torqued at 240 # ft ?


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0
^this^ I used a 3' cheater bar with a 4' foot pipe over the end of it. Its a bit scary watching the cheater bar bend but it was not a hard pull at all. Be sure to lock the flywheel. In my case 6th gear (manual) and wheels double chocked.
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