MGW Flat Stick - Installed!
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carl3989 (11-21-2017)
11-20-2017, 06:21 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
You do know they have different ***** besides the standard white and black. I have a red flat stick and have a gripper **** with the red punisher skull. He He
11-20-2017, 08:48 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Very nice! I don't have the flat stick version, but the regular one. My previous C6 had the stock shifter and my Z06 has the MGW shifter in it from the previous owner. It's a huge difference. Absolutely love it. The throws on the stock shifter are far too long.
Last edited by Frankie15; 11-20-2017 at 08:49 PM.
11-23-2017, 11:19 PM
#9
I tried to get my local Chevy dealer to take a look at my transmission with the "difficult to put in 1st gear" issue and they immediately came back at me with "aftermarket shifter" and would not touch the transmission. When I complained the service manager said they can't say for sure if the shifter is not the cause of the issue which is total BS due to there being a TSB out on this very issue and it existed when I had the OEM shifter!
So, the answer is maybe.
Sadly I already got rid of the original and the "aftermarket shifter" is on my permanent record. So any transmission-related issue will never be looked at by this particular Chevy dealer.
So, the answer is maybe.
Sadly I already got rid of the original and the "aftermarket shifter" is on my permanent record. So any transmission-related issue will never be looked at by this particular Chevy dealer.
11-25-2017, 07:02 PM
#10
Hate to say it, but with the way the MGW works to get you through the gates, you are better off with either the stock shift ****,or one of the race ***** isntead.
With the shifter in neutral, thumb on the top of the ****, put palm pressure on the right hand side of the **** to pull the **** to the right, and then up to get you into 1. To shift to second, same hand position and with keeping palm pressure to the left still on the ****, come straight down the left hand rail into second.
From second to third, just pressure on the back shifter **** without any side pressure, and it will move back into the 3- gate position to shift into directly into 3, Hence will come out of the 1/2 gate on it own. From 3 to 4, no side pressure, and just finger tip pressure to pull shifter **** straight back since again, the normal natural point of the shifter is the 3-4 gate line.
From 4 to 5, thump pressure on the left hand side of the **** as you grab it like a broom handle still,and ride the right hand side of the 3/4 gate up with thumb pressure to the right until you come to the nurtral center point,while will push you into the 5-gate line, and up into 5 gear. Into 6 from 5, just keep the left hand pressure to the right to ride the left hand 5-6 gate line down to 6.
As for down shifting from 5 to either 4 or second, just a mater of side pressure on the shifter to put you in the correct gate. 5 to 4, only finger pressure on the front of the shifter and will find 4 gear on it own. 5 to 2, palm pressure as you are using finger pressure as well, and this will pull the shifter back into the 1/2 gate line on the way down, as you hit the neutral cross lines of the gate to jump past the 3-4 gate line instead.
Hence you don't need to man handle the shifter ****, but using the needed light side pressure if you don't want the 3/4 gate to lightly push/pull the **** into the correct gate line on the shift instead. So again, your hand position on the shifter works best when the **** is grasped like it a broom handle, which allows for the lightest of touch to achieve either the side push or pull to hit the correct gate.
With the your hand on top of a ball type ****, your trying to mesmerizer where the gates are to a push to that next gear, instead of just pressure riding the side of the **** to put/keep you in the correct gate isntead.
With the shifter in neutral, thumb on the top of the ****, put palm pressure on the right hand side of the **** to pull the **** to the right, and then up to get you into 1. To shift to second, same hand position and with keeping palm pressure to the left still on the ****, come straight down the left hand rail into second.
From second to third, just pressure on the back shifter **** without any side pressure, and it will move back into the 3- gate position to shift into directly into 3, Hence will come out of the 1/2 gate on it own. From 3 to 4, no side pressure, and just finger tip pressure to pull shifter **** straight back since again, the normal natural point of the shifter is the 3-4 gate line.
From 4 to 5, thump pressure on the left hand side of the **** as you grab it like a broom handle still,and ride the right hand side of the 3/4 gate up with thumb pressure to the right until you come to the nurtral center point,while will push you into the 5-gate line, and up into 5 gear. Into 6 from 5, just keep the left hand pressure to the right to ride the left hand 5-6 gate line down to 6.
As for down shifting from 5 to either 4 or second, just a mater of side pressure on the shifter to put you in the correct gate. 5 to 4, only finger pressure on the front of the shifter and will find 4 gear on it own. 5 to 2, palm pressure as you are using finger pressure as well, and this will pull the shifter back into the 1/2 gate line on the way down, as you hit the neutral cross lines of the gate to jump past the 3-4 gate line instead.
Hence you don't need to man handle the shifter ****, but using the needed light side pressure if you don't want the 3/4 gate to lightly push/pull the **** into the correct gate line on the shift instead. So again, your hand position on the shifter works best when the **** is grasped like it a broom handle, which allows for the lightest of touch to achieve either the side push or pull to hit the correct gate.
With the your hand on top of a ball type ****, your trying to mesmerizer where the gates are to a push to that next gear, instead of just pressure riding the side of the **** to put/keep you in the correct gate isntead.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-25-2017 at 07:02 PM.
11-25-2017, 10:24 PM
#12
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Hate to say it, but with the way the MGW works to get you through the gates, you are better off with either the stock shift ****,or one of the race ***** isntead.
With the your hand on top of a ball type ****, your trying to mesmerizer where the gates are to a push to that next gear, instead of just pressure riding the side of the **** to put/keep you in the correct gate isntead.
With the your hand on top of a ball type ****, your trying to mesmerizer where the gates are to a push to that next gear, instead of just pressure riding the side of the **** to put/keep you in the correct gate isntead.
11-26-2017, 12:06 AM
#13
It just goes to show that we are all different. I hated the stock **** for the very reasons you described, as I have always been a "on top" shifter. Granted, they were mostly 4 speeds, so it was a little easier, but I have never missed a shift with the MGW/cue ball combo.
With that ****, I have never had any issues shifting the MGW shifter.
11-26-2017, 06:24 PM
#14
For me, it not about banging up gears, since the ball will work fine for that; it more about dropped down gears and making sure that you are in the correct gear before you let the clutch out.
Note, don't strip race, but high speed road course race instead.
Hence with the side palm push or pull with the longer ***** in my hand held like a broom stick, never miss the down shift that is down quickly instead (5 to either 2 or 3 to set up for the hard push out of the corner after the apex, is a snap and done in the blink of a eye).
Also to add, on the thread in adapter rod for the oem gear shifter ****, not only can it be adjust up or down to shorten or lengthen the throws of the shifter, but it can be used to rotate index the OEM shift **** as well.
I point this out, since I have my OEM **** index rotated to about the 12:45 position, which allows the side contour of the OEM **** to fit my hand like perfectly (feels ever better than than race type **** that I listed above that I first tried, then moved back to the oem shift ****).
So be simply, has always been about function over form, and don't see the advantages to either the ball ****, or the slab side shifter shaft for the way I use my vet.
Note, don't strip race, but high speed road course race instead.
Hence with the side palm push or pull with the longer ***** in my hand held like a broom stick, never miss the down shift that is down quickly instead (5 to either 2 or 3 to set up for the hard push out of the corner after the apex, is a snap and done in the blink of a eye).
Also to add, on the thread in adapter rod for the oem gear shifter ****, not only can it be adjust up or down to shorten or lengthen the throws of the shifter, but it can be used to rotate index the OEM shift **** as well.
I point this out, since I have my OEM **** index rotated to about the 12:45 position, which allows the side contour of the OEM **** to fit my hand like perfectly (feels ever better than than race type **** that I listed above that I first tried, then moved back to the oem shift ****).
So be simply, has always been about function over form, and don't see the advantages to either the ball ****, or the slab side shifter shaft for the way I use my vet.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-26-2017 at 06:34 PM.
11-27-2017, 04:02 AM
#16
The MGW shifter put more "spring type" force to pull/keep the shifter into the 3-4 gear line as is neutral bias line, over the stock shifter.
So using the MGW is really just a mater of the push/pull force on the side of the **** to get you into/hold you in the other two shift gate lines as you are shifting through the gears up and down in these other two sets of gear lines.
With a ball type shifter since you can manhandle the shifter **** more than needed on the shift, your trying to muscle memory the actual end points of where you need to move the ball to the next position on the shift instead.
Lets take a normal 2 to 3 shift, and on a longer OEM type shifter, you just push the shifter straight up with the web of your hand between your thumb and main fingers holding the **** loosely (or just palm straight up on the back of the ****), and the MGW will swap over to the 3/4 gear line middle point as you are only pushing the back of the shifter upwards.
With you muscle palming the the top of the ball instead to hand onto it, when pushing dash direction on the shifter, it may not allow the shifter **** to move over to the 3/4 gear line on the way forward, and this will force you to have to make that needed middle point right movement over to the 3/4 gear line to aim for the 3 gear placement instead.
To really understand this, shift through the gears with the car off with only the lightest of touch on the ball and with your had position that of holding a groom handle on the shifter. Next death grip plam the top of the ball and shift through the gears.
On the light touch on the ball to shift through the gears, up and down line movements don't take any concentration, and it just the matter of right or left force to hold you in to 1 to 2, and 5-6 gear lines (out of the 3/4 gear line) shifting through these gear.
With manhandling the ball (not allowing the shifter **** to snap back to that 3/4 line on it own), you now are forcefully making the needed middle H turns through the middle sections of the gates as you are shifting through the gears, as well as aiming each shift for that next end of position shift to (trying to guide through the center of a Ferrari shifter gate plate so you don't mar the metal).
To sum it up, on a 5 to 2 down shift with the oem type **** and me broom handing holding the **** with only a light touch to the **** , I know that the trans went into 2 gear on the shift, since when the shifter dropped into 2, the shifter **** had force against the finger side of my hand as I road the 1-2 shifter left hand rail all the way down into 2 gear.
Trying to do the same shift with my palm on top of the shifter, and a death grip to boot as well, would be a much slower shift. Hence I would be forcing tugging the shifter at the center of the H all the way over until It smacked the left hand side of the 1-2 shift line first, then would be pulling the shifter down into the 2 gear final position as I tug road the left hand gate side all the way down from the initial smack point as well.
So again, you don't have to aim at the final shift end point with the MGW shifter. Hence because its so 3-4 gate line bias, you only need the feedback of the **** tension away from that 3-4 gate line to tell you are in the correct gate line for that end shift position instead; which holding the shifter **** like a broom handle works better to achieve such.
So using the MGW is really just a mater of the push/pull force on the side of the **** to get you into/hold you in the other two shift gate lines as you are shifting through the gears up and down in these other two sets of gear lines.
With a ball type shifter since you can manhandle the shifter **** more than needed on the shift, your trying to muscle memory the actual end points of where you need to move the ball to the next position on the shift instead.
Lets take a normal 2 to 3 shift, and on a longer OEM type shifter, you just push the shifter straight up with the web of your hand between your thumb and main fingers holding the **** loosely (or just palm straight up on the back of the ****), and the MGW will swap over to the 3/4 gear line middle point as you are only pushing the back of the shifter upwards.
With you muscle palming the the top of the ball instead to hand onto it, when pushing dash direction on the shifter, it may not allow the shifter **** to move over to the 3/4 gear line on the way forward, and this will force you to have to make that needed middle point right movement over to the 3/4 gear line to aim for the 3 gear placement instead.
To really understand this, shift through the gears with the car off with only the lightest of touch on the ball and with your had position that of holding a groom handle on the shifter. Next death grip plam the top of the ball and shift through the gears.
On the light touch on the ball to shift through the gears, up and down line movements don't take any concentration, and it just the matter of right or left force to hold you in to 1 to 2, and 5-6 gear lines (out of the 3/4 gear line) shifting through these gear.
With manhandling the ball (not allowing the shifter **** to snap back to that 3/4 line on it own), you now are forcefully making the needed middle H turns through the middle sections of the gates as you are shifting through the gears, as well as aiming each shift for that next end of position shift to (trying to guide through the center of a Ferrari shifter gate plate so you don't mar the metal).
To sum it up, on a 5 to 2 down shift with the oem type **** and me broom handing holding the **** with only a light touch to the **** , I know that the trans went into 2 gear on the shift, since when the shifter dropped into 2, the shifter **** had force against the finger side of my hand as I road the 1-2 shifter left hand rail all the way down into 2 gear.
Trying to do the same shift with my palm on top of the shifter, and a death grip to boot as well, would be a much slower shift. Hence I would be forcing tugging the shifter at the center of the H all the way over until It smacked the left hand side of the 1-2 shift line first, then would be pulling the shifter down into the 2 gear final position as I tug road the left hand gate side all the way down from the initial smack point as well.
So again, you don't have to aim at the final shift end point with the MGW shifter. Hence because its so 3-4 gate line bias, you only need the feedback of the **** tension away from that 3-4 gate line to tell you are in the correct gate line for that end shift position instead; which holding the shifter **** like a broom handle works better to achieve such.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-27-2017 at 04:21 AM.
11-30-2017, 05:40 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
The MGW shifter put more "spring type" force to pull/keep the shifter into the 3-4 gear line as is neutral bias line, over the stock shifter.
So using the MGW is really just a mater of the push/pull force on the side of the **** to get you into/hold you in the other two shift gate lines as you are shifting through the gears up and down in these other two sets of gear lines.
With a ball type shifter since you can manhandle the shifter **** more than needed on the shift, your trying to muscle memory the actual end points of where you need to move the ball to the next position on the shift instead.
Lets take a normal 2 to 3 shift, and on a longer OEM type shifter, you just push the shifter straight up with the web of your hand between your thumb and main fingers holding the **** loosely (or just palm straight up on the back of the ****), and the MGW will swap over to the 3/4 gear line middle point as you are only pushing the back of the shifter upwards.
With you muscle palming the the top of the ball instead to hand onto it, when pushing dash direction on the shifter, it may not allow the shifter **** to move over to the 3/4 gear line on the way forward, and this will force you to have to make that needed middle point right movement over to the 3/4 gear line to aim for the 3 gear placement instead.
To really understand this, shift through the gears with the car off with only the lightest of touch on the ball and with your had position that of holding a groom handle on the shifter. Next death grip plam the top of the ball and shift through the gears.
On the light touch on the ball to shift through the gears, up and down line movements don't take any concentration, and it just the matter of right or left force to hold you in to 1 to 2, and 5-6 gear lines (out of the 3/4 gear line) shifting through these gear.
With manhandling the ball (not allowing the shifter **** to snap back to that 3/4 line on it own), you now are forcefully making the needed middle H turns through the middle sections of the gates as you are shifting through the gears, as well as aiming each shift for that next end of position shift to (trying to guide through the center of a Ferrari shifter gate plate so you don't mar the metal).
To sum it up, on a 5 to 2 down shift with the oem type **** and me broom handing holding the **** with only a light touch to the **** , I know that the trans went into 2 gear on the shift, since when the shifter dropped into 2, the shifter **** had force against the finger side of my hand as I road the 1-2 shifter left hand rail all the way down into 2 gear.
Trying to do the same shift with my palm on top of the shifter, and a death grip to boot as well, would be a much slower shift. Hence I would be forcing tugging the shifter at the center of the H all the way over until It smacked the left hand side of the 1-2 shift line first, then would be pulling the shifter down into the 2 gear final position as I tug road the left hand gate side all the way down from the initial smack point as well.
So again, you don't have to aim at the final shift end point with the MGW shifter. Hence because its so 3-4 gate line bias, you only need the feedback of the **** tension away from that 3-4 gate line to tell you are in the correct gate line for that end shift position instead; which holding the shifter **** like a broom handle works better to achieve such.
So using the MGW is really just a mater of the push/pull force on the side of the **** to get you into/hold you in the other two shift gate lines as you are shifting through the gears up and down in these other two sets of gear lines.
With a ball type shifter since you can manhandle the shifter **** more than needed on the shift, your trying to muscle memory the actual end points of where you need to move the ball to the next position on the shift instead.
Lets take a normal 2 to 3 shift, and on a longer OEM type shifter, you just push the shifter straight up with the web of your hand between your thumb and main fingers holding the **** loosely (or just palm straight up on the back of the ****), and the MGW will swap over to the 3/4 gear line middle point as you are only pushing the back of the shifter upwards.
With you muscle palming the the top of the ball instead to hand onto it, when pushing dash direction on the shifter, it may not allow the shifter **** to move over to the 3/4 gear line on the way forward, and this will force you to have to make that needed middle point right movement over to the 3/4 gear line to aim for the 3 gear placement instead.
To really understand this, shift through the gears with the car off with only the lightest of touch on the ball and with your had position that of holding a groom handle on the shifter. Next death grip plam the top of the ball and shift through the gears.
On the light touch on the ball to shift through the gears, up and down line movements don't take any concentration, and it just the matter of right or left force to hold you in to 1 to 2, and 5-6 gear lines (out of the 3/4 gear line) shifting through these gear.
With manhandling the ball (not allowing the shifter **** to snap back to that 3/4 line on it own), you now are forcefully making the needed middle H turns through the middle sections of the gates as you are shifting through the gears, as well as aiming each shift for that next end of position shift to (trying to guide through the center of a Ferrari shifter gate plate so you don't mar the metal).
To sum it up, on a 5 to 2 down shift with the oem type **** and me broom handing holding the **** with only a light touch to the **** , I know that the trans went into 2 gear on the shift, since when the shifter dropped into 2, the shifter **** had force against the finger side of my hand as I road the 1-2 shifter left hand rail all the way down into 2 gear.
Trying to do the same shift with my palm on top of the shifter, and a death grip to boot as well, would be a much slower shift. Hence I would be forcing tugging the shifter at the center of the H all the way over until It smacked the left hand side of the 1-2 shift line first, then would be pulling the shifter down into the 2 gear final position as I tug road the left hand gate side all the way down from the initial smack point as well.
So again, you don't have to aim at the final shift end point with the MGW shifter. Hence because its so 3-4 gate line bias, you only need the feedback of the **** tension away from that 3-4 gate line to tell you are in the correct gate line for that end shift position instead; which holding the shifter **** like a broom handle works better to achieve such.
I totally agree that you want to let the shifter center itself going into 3 & 4 and you want to side load left for 1 & 2 and side load right for 5 & 6. But you can do that with any **** you like.
The fact that the MGW has a stronger centering spring action only means you need a little more side load to overcome it. Don't know why anyone has problems finding gears on a 6 speed, it's pretty dead simple. Now those damn 7 speeds, that's something else entirely.
12-03-2017, 10:11 PM
#18
Basically when shifting 1-2 you want a bit of left pressure to make sure you "stay left" and then 2-3 you simply push forward and any good shifter will center as you push forward and generally go into 3rd. 3-4 is straight back with no sideways pressure and 4-5 is push up with slight right pressure and lastly 5-6 is straight back with slight right pressure.
It's basic shifting 101. No thought is really needed and a better built shifter will have less slop and thus better shifting action. The OEM shifter will move too much in the center so that instead of going 2-3 it wiggles so you might go into 5th instead. Annoying. But the MGW will definitely take out that slop and be more accurate. So will a B&M. Actually any aftermarket shifter will be better than the OEM in my opinion.
12-04-2017, 08:35 PM
#20
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