Light sensor replacement
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Light sensor replacement
My headlights are staying on all the time, looks like my light sensor needs to be replaced. I know that these photo cells wear out over time and it is 10 years old now, so I guess I'll just go ahead and order a new one.
Has anyone on here tackled this job? How hard is it to get the old sensor out of the dash panel and the new one installed?
Has anyone on here tackled this job? How hard is it to get the old sensor out of the dash panel and the new one installed?
#2
Drifting
My headlights are staying on all the time, looks like my light sensor needs to be replaced. I know that these photo cells wear out over time and it is 10 years old now, so I guess I'll just go ahead and order a new one.
Has anyone on here tackled this job? How hard is it to get the old sensor out of the dash panel and the new one installed?
Has anyone on here tackled this job? How hard is it to get the old sensor out of the dash panel and the new one installed?
#3
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Pearland / Houston Tx
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 0
Received 1,116 Likes
on
693 Posts
be careful popping that grill out. I broke a tab during a "disconnect the center speaker" maneuver. Know where the tabs are.
If you are an Amazon open-box shopper, there is one for 7 bucks.
If you are an Amazon open-box shopper, there is one for 7 bucks.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Posts: 22,997
Received 2,887 Likes
on
1,910 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Like said above, use a small screwdriver to carefully pop the center grid off. Sensor is clipped in. Remove wire connections and replace.
Easy job. Got my OEM replacement from Amazon.
Mine is a 07 also.
Easy job. Got my OEM replacement from Amazon.
Mine is a 07 also.
#5
Race Car Tech
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
FYI, defroster grill replacement can be found on page 10-122 of volume 2, but it really doesn't tell you much other than there are 4 clips and it shows pretty much the same photo as above.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Has anybody else noticed that there appear to be two different types of these sensors? One has a smoked lens, and the other has a more frosted looking lens and it is oriented differently when installed. I ordered the GM part number that is called for (13498958) but it looks different than the one I took out, and it installs 90 degress different.
The one I took out looks like this:
But the new one looks like this. If you look, you'll notice the small plastic alignment arm is in a different position, which means the sensor gets mounted 90 degrees off. It seems to me like the orientation is important if you want it to catch the light from the proper direction.
The one I took out looks like this:
But the new one looks like this. If you look, you'll notice the small plastic alignment arm is in a different position, which means the sensor gets mounted 90 degrees off. It seems to me like the orientation is important if you want it to catch the light from the proper direction.
Last edited by CSixDude; 01-08-2018 at 07:43 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Has anybody else noticed that there appear to be two different types of these sensors? One has a smoked lens, and the other has a more frosted looking lens and it is oriented differently when installed. I ordered the GM part number that is called for (13498958) but it looks different than the one I took out, and it installs 90 degress different.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Closer inspection reveals they are two totally different designs internally. I guess GM must have changed/upgraded them since my car was built.
Last edited by CSixDude; 01-08-2018 at 08:04 PM.
#11
FIY, it may or not be the ambient light sensor in the dash the problem.
Hence the HVAC controller sends out 5 volts to the sensor and reads what it sending back, and the HVAV controller tells the BCM if the lights should be on or off in the first place via that feed back voltage from the sensor.
Hence I bring this up, since the problem may not be a sensor that is problem, but just a cold solder joint in the HVAC controller board causing the problem instead. I state this, since my HVAC is having problem the it cold, and when the inside of the car warms up, the problem goes away (classic cold solder joint problem, and at some point, need to pull the HVAC controller board to reflow the solder joint on the board to solve the cold solder joints).
So short of having a Tech II to check the feed back voltage in the first place, start with just replacing the ambient light since they are cheap enough, and if it does not solve the problem, then it time to pull the HVAC controller,pull the board, and re-solder the Cold solder joints that are causing the problem instead.
If your soldering skills suck and don't have anyone to do such for you, then may have to replace the HVAC controller instead.
Hence the HVAC controller sends out 5 volts to the sensor and reads what it sending back, and the HVAV controller tells the BCM if the lights should be on or off in the first place via that feed back voltage from the sensor.
Hence I bring this up, since the problem may not be a sensor that is problem, but just a cold solder joint in the HVAC controller board causing the problem instead. I state this, since my HVAC is having problem the it cold, and when the inside of the car warms up, the problem goes away (classic cold solder joint problem, and at some point, need to pull the HVAC controller board to reflow the solder joint on the board to solve the cold solder joints).
So short of having a Tech II to check the feed back voltage in the first place, start with just replacing the ambient light since they are cheap enough, and if it does not solve the problem, then it time to pull the HVAC controller,pull the board, and re-solder the Cold solder joints that are causing the problem instead.
If your soldering skills suck and don't have anyone to do such for you, then may have to replace the HVAC controller instead.