Console Lid Latch Update
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 326
From: Houston TX
Console Lid Latch Update
Many thanks to doomi and 72GACRZR for providing pictures and dimensions of the latch portion of the lid. The 3D model has been updated and last night I did a test print of it in ABS. The first picture is how it looks when finished printing while the next two are with the piece and supports separated. The printed part is on the left while the raft and support structure used during the print is on the right.
I will do some comparisons against my original broken latch in the next few days and then do some test fitting with the console and lid. I plan to make this model free once all the test fits and refinements have been completed. I am also thinking about making an original and one with an extended latch for those with aftermarket padded console lids. My latch always fit much tighter with the padded lid and that, along with the poor engineering of the latch itself, probably lead to an earlier demise.
The dream goal would be to invert the model once proven, create molds out of aluminum or steel on a CNC mill, then use the injection molding machine at my maker space to recreate the factory piece in ABS with the same mold lines. I will update this thread when I know more.
I will do some comparisons against my original broken latch in the next few days and then do some test fitting with the console and lid. I plan to make this model free once all the test fits and refinements have been completed. I am also thinking about making an original and one with an extended latch for those with aftermarket padded console lids. My latch always fit much tighter with the padded lid and that, along with the poor engineering of the latch itself, probably lead to an earlier demise.
The dream goal would be to invert the model once proven, create molds out of aluminum or steel on a CNC mill, then use the injection molding machine at my maker space to recreate the factory piece in ABS with the same mold lines. I will update this thread when I know more.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 361
From: TX
Is the original latch also made of ABS? If it is, it should be simple to repair, just use some ABS plumbers cement and glue it back together, it will be stronger than it was before it cracked if done right.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 326
From: Houston TX
The hard angled design probably means it will fail again at some point too, no matter how much glue you use.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 21,631
Likes: 1,144
From: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
Many thanks to doomi and 72GACRZR for providing pictures and dimensions of the latch portion of the lid. The 3D model has been updated and last night I did a test print of it in ABS. The first picture is how it looks when finished printing while the next two are with the piece and supports separated. The printed part is on the left while the raft and support structure used during the print is on the right.
I will do some comparisons against my original broken latch in the next few days and then do some test fitting with the console and lid. I plan to make this model free once all the test fits and refinements have been completed. I am also thinking about making an original and one with an extended latch for those with aftermarket padded console lids. My latch always fit much tighter with the padded lid and that, along with the poor engineering of the latch itself, probably lead to an earlier demise.
The dream goal would be to invert the model once proven, create molds out of aluminum or steel on a CNC mill, then use the injection molding machine at my maker space to recreate the factory piece in ABS with the same mold lines. I will update this thread when I know more.
I will do some comparisons against my original broken latch in the next few days and then do some test fitting with the console and lid. I plan to make this model free once all the test fits and refinements have been completed. I am also thinking about making an original and one with an extended latch for those with aftermarket padded console lids. My latch always fit much tighter with the padded lid and that, along with the poor engineering of the latch itself, probably lead to an earlier demise.
The dream goal would be to invert the model once proven, create molds out of aluminum or steel on a CNC mill, then use the injection molding machine at my maker space to recreate the factory piece in ABS with the same mold lines. I will update this thread when I know more.
Once you get the printing tweaked in, how long will it take to produce one usable part?
FWIW: I'm a self-employed moldmaker, fifty years' experience.
There are a lot of variables, but you would have to sell a LOT of parts to make an injection mold worthwhile.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 45
From: One of the Edema Ruh
I know of a company that has a 3D printer that will run production parts. Much more cost effective than injection mold. They use HP PA 12 Glass Filled Materials. PM if interested.
Last edited by Kvothe; Jan 11, 2018 at 09:29 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 21,631
Likes: 1,144
From: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
I bought a padded console a couple of years ago and just left the latch off. Gravity seems to work pretty well.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,452
Likes: 495
From: Clearwater, Florida
Very interested and very 
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 4,362
From: Chirper Island
Wow!
My lid hasn't latched in about 5 months. I'd love to see the progress. Gravity is working right now, but I'd like to replace the latch if not more expensive than gravity.
Is this going to be compatible with an '05 with a keyed lock? Probably not.
A girl can dream.
My lid hasn't latched in about 5 months. I'd love to see the progress. Gravity is working right now, but I'd like to replace the latch if not more expensive than gravity.
Is this going to be compatible with an '05 with a keyed lock? Probably not.
A girl can dream.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 326
From: Houston TX
Just some more info for you guys.
The part took 53 minutes to print on a PowerSpec printer. That is not 100% infill; closer to 40%, meaning the part has some hollow space inside. I imagine that making it 100% solid would take closer to 2 hours to print. The software estimated that it used 20g (0.7 oz) of filament, about $.50 worth at the current settings.
The mold making and injection molding route isn't a definite, but it is something I would like to do. This project is forcing me to learn stuff I don't already know which is a good thing. The factory part is still available at near $40 from my local dealer. Once the model is proven I will check with printing sites like Shapeways to see exactly what the cost of one would be with their different methods and options.
The part took 53 minutes to print on a PowerSpec printer. That is not 100% infill; closer to 40%, meaning the part has some hollow space inside. I imagine that making it 100% solid would take closer to 2 hours to print. The software estimated that it used 20g (0.7 oz) of filament, about $.50 worth at the current settings.
The mold making and injection molding route isn't a definite, but it is something I would like to do. This project is forcing me to learn stuff I don't already know which is a good thing. The factory part is still available at near $40 from my local dealer. Once the model is proven I will check with printing sites like Shapeways to see exactly what the cost of one would be with their different methods and options.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 359
Likes: 47
Very cool! Mine was broken when I bought it, thought about glueing a thin magnet to the underside of the tab where the piece broke off, and a piece of metal across the opening it went into, but the lid doesn't seem to bounce and rattle over bumps (probably because my elbow is always on it) so I never got around to it.
Years ago I had a Caddy where the plastic glovebox latch broke, and I cast one out of steel...what a job
. Wish we'd had CAD-CAM back then!
Years ago I had a Caddy where the plastic glovebox latch broke, and I cast one out of steel...what a job
. Wish we'd had CAD-CAM back then!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 21,631
Likes: 1,144
From: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
Just some more info for you guys.
The part took 53 minutes to print on a PowerSpec printer. That is not 100% infill; closer to 40%, meaning the part has some hollow space inside. I imagine that making it 100% solid would take closer to 2 hours to print. The software estimated that it used 20g (0.7 oz) of filament, about $.50 worth at the current settings.
The mold making and injection molding route isn't a definite, but it is something I would like to do. This project is forcing me to learn stuff I don't already know which is a good thing. The factory part is still available at near $40 from my local dealer. Once the model is proven I will check with printing sites like Shapeways to see exactly what the cost of one would be with their different methods and options.
The part took 53 minutes to print on a PowerSpec printer. That is not 100% infill; closer to 40%, meaning the part has some hollow space inside. I imagine that making it 100% solid would take closer to 2 hours to print. The software estimated that it used 20g (0.7 oz) of filament, about $.50 worth at the current settings.
The mold making and injection molding route isn't a definite, but it is something I would like to do. This project is forcing me to learn stuff I don't already know which is a good thing. The factory part is still available at near $40 from my local dealer. Once the model is proven I will check with printing sites like Shapeways to see exactly what the cost of one would be with their different methods and options.
My random thoughts:
- This is the first I've heard of these latches breaking; I thought the glove box latch was more troublesome.
- A single-cavity production mold would cost around $8-10k, give or take a couple thou, depending. It would produce a part in 20-30 seconds.
- The tiny spring hole in the side could be molded in, but would raise the price of the tool. For something as low-production as this would be, it would be cheaper to drill the hole as a secondary operation.
- If mine broke (it's not even mounted) and I wanted it fixed, I would pay the $40 dealer price, unless someone could print one cheaper that was at least as strong.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 326
From: Houston TX
Thanks for the comments.
My random thoughts:
- This is the first I've heard of these latches breaking; I thought the glove box latch was more troublesome.
- A single-cavity production mold would cost around $8-10k, give or take a couple thou, depending. It would produce a part in 20-30 seconds.
- The tiny spring hole in the side could be molded in, but would raise the price of the tool. For something as low-production as this would be, it would be cheaper to drill the hole as a secondary operation.
- If mine broke (it's not even mounted) and I wanted it fixed, I would pay the $40 dealer price, unless someone could print one cheaper that was at least as strong.
My random thoughts:
- This is the first I've heard of these latches breaking; I thought the glove box latch was more troublesome.
- A single-cavity production mold would cost around $8-10k, give or take a couple thou, depending. It would produce a part in 20-30 seconds.
- The tiny spring hole in the side could be molded in, but would raise the price of the tool. For something as low-production as this would be, it would be cheaper to drill the hole as a secondary operation.
- If mine broke (it's not even mounted) and I wanted it fixed, I would pay the $40 dealer price, unless someone could print one cheaper that was at least as strong.
For the mold, if I learn to make the mold in my spare time with tooling available to me, it won't cost me anything but time spent learning a new skill and maybe $50 in aluminum. Thanks for the tip on the hole.
Also, printing one as strong should be pretty easy. I'm pretty sure it would cost less than $40 as well.