PCMusicGuy

Many thanks to doomi and 72GACRZR for providing pictures and dimensions of the latch portion of the lid. The 3D model has been updated and last night I did a test print of it in ABS. The first picture is how it looks when finished printing while the next two are with the piece and supports separated. The printed part is on the left while the raft and support structure used during the print is on the right.

I will do some comparisons against my original broken latch in the next few days and then do some test fitting with the console and lid. I plan to make this model free once all the test fits and refinements have been completed. I am also thinking about making an original and one with an extended latch for those with aftermarket padded console lids. My latch always fit much tighter with the padded lid and that, along with the poor engineering of the latch itself, probably lead to an earlier demise.

The dream goal would be to invert the model once proven, create molds out of aluminum or steel on a CNC mill, then use the injection molding machine at my maker space to recreate the factory piece in ABS with the same mold lines. I will update this thread when I know more.

unclecookie

Awesome job! Keep us posted on your progress.

Frankie15

Thanks again so much for doing this. Can't wait to have a working latch again.

fireparamed

This is seriously cool. Thanks for all of your hard work on this.

What a cool forum!

CSixDude

Is the original latch also made of ABS? If it is, it should be simple to repair, just use some ABS plumbers cement and glue it back together, it will be stronger than it was before it cracked if done right.

PCMusicGuy

I'm pretty sure the original is ABS. Most plastic parts on cars are. While repairing is possible, that only helps if you can locate the broken piece of the latch. The hard angled design probably means it will fail again at some point too, no matter how much glue you use.

Bruze

Cool!

Once you get the printing tweaked in, how long will it take to produce one usable part?

FWIW: I'm a self-employed moldmaker, fifty years' experience. There are a lot of variables, but you would have to sell a LOT of parts to make an injection mold worthwhile.

CSixDude

Where does it break?

Kvothe

I know of a company that has a 3D printer that will run production parts. Much more cost effective than injection mold. They use HP PA 12 Glass Filled Materials. PM if interested.

Bruze

Cost effective if low production, otherwise, no. But I can't see a high enough demand for a mold to pay off. Are these no longer available off the shelf?

I bought a padded console a couple of years ago and just left the latch off. Gravity seems to work pretty well.

Frankie15

Right at that point I circled. The stock latch there is super thin and straight. That's where mine broke on both of the C6s that I've owned.

This model looks much better. It's a lot thicker.

doomi

My latch fell out but is still intact. If the tolerances on your model are off when you test it I'd be happy to send you the full piece to design from before I reinstall.

GREENKAR

Very interested and very

owc6

Wow!

My lid hasn't latched in about 5 months. I'd love to see the progress. Gravity is working right now, but I'd like to replace the latch if not more expensive than gravity.

Is this going to be compatible with an '05 with a keyed lock? Probably not.

A girl can dream.

TomdaToolman

Make it out of aluminum!

mcandrew67

awesome work, Mines been broken for years, would be nice to buy a new piece that is stronger.

PCMusicGuy

Just some more info for you guys.

The part took 53 minutes to print on a PowerSpec printer. That is not 100% infill; closer to 40%, meaning the part has some hollow space inside. I imagine that making it 100% solid would take closer to 2 hours to print. The software estimated that it used 20g (0.7 oz) of filament, about $.50 worth at the current settings.

The mold making and injection molding route isn't a definite, but it is something I would like to do. This project is forcing me to learn stuff I don't already know which is a good thing. The factory part is still available at near $40 from my local dealer. Once the model is proven I will check with printing sites like Shapeways to see exactly what the cost of one would be with their different methods and options.

ben z

Very cool! Mine was broken when I bought it, thought about glueing a thin magnet to the underside of the tab where the piece broke off, and a piece of metal across the opening it went into, but the lid doesn't seem to bounce and rattle over bumps (probably because my elbow is always on it) so I never got around to it.

Years ago I had a Caddy where the plastic glovebox latch broke, and I cast one out of steel...what a job. Wish we'd had CAD-CAM back then!

Bruze

Thanks for the comments.

My random thoughts:

- This is the first I've heard of these latches breaking; I thought the glove box latch was more troublesome.

- A single-cavity production mold would cost around $8-10k, give or take a couple thou, depending. It would produce a part in 20-30 seconds.

- The tiny spring hole in the side could be molded in, but would raise the price of the tool. For something as low-production as this would be, it would be cheaper to drill the hole as a secondary operation.

- If mine broke (it's not even mounted) and I wanted it fixed, I would pay the $40 dealer price, unless someone could print one cheaper that was at least as strong.

PCMusicGuy

I have heard of many of them breaking, but you are right in that I've heard of the glove box pieces breaking too. I haven't personally had that issue so it isn't one I've pursued. Additionally, I saw a replacement picture part on the internet for this latch at Cultrag and it looks like the latch had a better design in the mold where it attaches to the rest of the plastic piece. I don't know if this was an early C6 problem that was later corrected.

For the mold, if I learn to make the mold in my spare time with tooling available to me, it won't cost me anything but time spent learning a new skill and maybe $50 in aluminum. Thanks for the tip on the hole.

Also, printing one as strong should be pretty easy. I'm pretty sure it would cost less than $40 as well.