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Hello people of the inter-webs!
I have a 2005 MN6 base model.
I had the column lock replaced in 2010 due to the service column lock error. After the repair, I installed the bypass module.
No problems until about 6 months ago, when I had an issue with the battery. Changed the battery twice since then, and have had continues issues since then.
I almost always have the service column lock error message, and you have to cycle the the start button on and off several times to get the car to start. The other day, I had to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to get it to start.
I read here on the forum that the column lock module goes bad, and that could be the issue. However, I would imagine that this will continue to be a problem from time to time, as long as these components are in the vehicle.
So my specific questions then become: can I remove this garbage all together, by upgrading to 2006 and newer parts? Has anyone done this? Does anyone know what all would need to be changed?
So my specific questions then become: can I remove this garbage all together, by upgrading to 2006 and newer parts? Has anyone done this? Does anyone know what all would need to be changed?
I thank you for any assistance!
No, there is no way to program out the steering column lock module from a 05 M6, to lose the actual steering colunm lock. The only way to delete the actual steering column lock, is to use a eliminator device to trick the SCLM so it thinks that the lock in still in play.
Some times its the eliminator that will go bad, some times its a bad connection at either the eliminator plug to the SCLM (big black box that the elimitor plugs into)/the master connector to the SCLM from the car that gets corroded instead, or the SCLM that goes bad itself.
Hence the SCLM has 4 relays that can wear out over time, and when this happens, even with the eliminator still good, the eliminator does not receiver the voltage to fire its latching relay the other direction to send the other resistance signal back to the SCLM/RCDLR.
So out the gate, remove both the eliminator connector and the main connectors to the Steering column lock module, clean the connects and pins on the SCLM with electrical contact cleaner, put a dab of dielectric grease on each pin of the SCLM, then plug the connectors back into see if that solves the problem.
If it does not, then check the eliminator to see if it still good.
Hence should have either 487ohm (locked), or 294ohms (unlocked) across wires A and B, and depending on the way you fire the latching relay via wire C and B with 12 volts (reverse the volt across these two wires to fire the relay the other way), the resistance reading across wires A and B should change to the other resistance. If you have no resistance reading across wires A and B with with the latching relay fired one direction or the other, then the eliminator is bad (too much heat uses to solder to the lathing relay pin legs, causing problem is the latching relay).
If the eliminator check out fine, then the problem is in the SCLM and you have one of two choice. The first it to pull the board out, trouble shoot which relay is causing the problem and fix/replace it. Mouser electronics has the needed relays, and to replace all 4 on the board is less then $20 in parts.
The relays are the 4 axicom white boxes on the board.
Also, while you have the board in hand, check for any cold solder joints that may need to be re-solders to resolve cold solder joints as well.
The other option is to replace the SCLM if you don't have the talent to check and replace the needed bad relay(s), and should be able to find one for around $150 new, or about $75 used.
Note, the new SCLM will self program itself into the BCM when you go to start the car after it replaced, so should not need a tech II to program a new one into the car on the replacement.
No, there is no way to program out the steering column lock module from a 05 M6, to lose the actual steering colunm lock. The only way to delete the actual steering column lock, is to use a eliminator device to trick the SCLM so it thinks that the lock in still in play.
Some times its the eliminator that will go bad, some times its a bad connection at either the eliminator plug to the SCLM (big black box that the elimitor plugs into)/the master connector to the SCLM from the car that gets corroded instead, or the SCLM that goes bad itself.
Hence the SCLM has 4 relays that can wear out over time, and when this happens, even with the eliminator still good, the eliminator does not receiver the voltage to fire its latching relay the other direction to send the other resistance signal back to the SCLM/RCDLR.
So out the gate, remove both the eliminator connector and the main connectors to the Steering column lock module, clean the connects and pins on the SCLM with electrical contact cleaner, put a dab of dielectric grease on each pin of the SCLM, then plug the connectors back into see if that solves the problem.
If it does not, then check the eliminator to see if it still good.
Hence should have either 487ohm (locked), or 294ohms (unlocked) across wires A and B, and depending on the way you fire the latching relay via wire C and B with 12 volts (reverse the volt across these two wires to fire the relay the other way), the resistance reading across wires A and B should change to the other resistance. If you have no resistance reading across wires A and B with with the latching relay fired one direction or the other, then the eliminator is bad (too much heat uses to solder to the lathing relay pin legs, causing problem is the latching relay).
If the eliminator check out fine, then the problem is in the SCLM and you have one of two choice. The first it to pull the board out, trouble shoot which relay is causing the problem and fix/replace it. Mouser electronics has the needed relays, and to replace all 4 on the board is less then $20 in parts.
The relays are the 4 axicom white boxes on the board.
Also, while you have the board in hand, check for any cold solder joints that may need to be re-solders to resolve cold solder joints as well.
The other option is to replace the SCLM if you don't have the talent to check and replace the needed bad relay(s), and should be able to find one for around $150 new, or about $75 used.
Note, the new SCLM will self program itself into the BCM when you go to start the car after it replaced, so should not need a tech II to program a new one into the car on the replacement.
Wow! Amazing info! I did find some stuff on this with a search, but nothing this detailed! I will definitely try messing with the connections/module...I appreciate you taking the time to help!
Wow! Amazing info! I did find some stuff on this with a search, but nothing this detailed! I will definitely try messing with the connections/module...I appreciate you taking the time to help!
Had the exact same issue with my 2005 Was told by several dealers the column lock module would have to be programed after installation. Took it to a independent garage and after installation the car started right up. No programming and the problem has not returned. Easy install and if I had known it did not need programming I could have fixed it myself in about an hour.
.... The only way to delete the actual steering column lock, is to use a eliminator device to trick the SCLM so it thinks that the lock in still in play.....
If it does not, then check the eliminator to see if it still good.
Hence should have either 487ohm (locked), or 294ohms (unlocked) across wires A and B.....
Dumb question, but I'll ask anyway because I'm curious. If the column lock eliminator uses resistor values and a relays, why can't I use some toggle switches and resistors to do the same thing manually? Is timing of the signal a consideration as well ?
Dumb question, but I'll ask anyway because I'm curious. If the column lock eliminator uses resistor values and a relays, why can't I use some toggle switches and resistors to do the same thing manually? Is timing of the signal a consideration as well ?
No, the SCLM only fires voltage across the C/D wires for little less than a second, and it has to see the change in resistance across the A/B wires fast enough instead.
Or if you have the talent to solder to a latching relay pin designed for a board header socket, without over heating the relay pins to distroy the relay to being with, then you can build one yourself for about $20 in parts from mouser electronics.
And if you where wondering why I linked kfn01 even through his units are slightly more expensive, he is the one that first started to built them, and has never had a problem destroying a relay to begin with. The same can not be said for the others that started to build them afterwards, with units either being defective to start with, or going defective shortly afterwards isntead (too much heat used to solder to the relay pins to cause problem with the latching relay itself).
So, I went to the local chevy dealer, haggled the price of the module, got it for $185. Comes with a 12 month warranty.
Installed it the other day, and just got back from running around, making several stops with the Vette. The car started each and every time, first try, and no error messages, so it seems to be fixed!
I am going to keep the old module, and attempt to repair it. Because it would stand to reason that if this issue has come up, it will probably come up again in the future. If so, I would like to have a plug and play solution ready to go!
Thank you all for the help again!
Last edited by johnnybravothepimp; 01-27-2018 at 12:58 PM.
hello folks
I know its a well known problem on the 2005 manual but i have the column lock issue on my 2008 auto, it comes up with the dreaded message "SERVICE COLUMN LOCK"
and the steering whell is locked in place and only get clicks from various places.
New battery with full charge, all fuses and relays checked.
The other thing i noticed is that the dial needles dont do the usual sweep max to min as it used to do.
Will the column lock bypass from Corvette Houston work in a 2008 auto, as i seem to have the same SCLM i have seen on photos.
Iv attached a photo of my SCLM.
Would love to be able to utilise the column lock eliminator or find a fix to retract the steering lock and allow the car to start.
If its possible to apply a separate 12v to a wire at the motor itself to retract it?
No, the SCLM only fires voltage across the C/D wires for little less than a second, and it has to see the change in resistance across the A/B wires fast enough instead.
I'm not so sure about that. For the longest time, my column lock motor seemed to be jammed in the unlocked position and the car started every time. This lasted for probably 5-6 years. Note that when I initially had problems with it chevy replaced the motor and it worked for a few months until it started acting up again. I went through a battery change and that fixed it until it jammed. And then one particularly hot day it decided to lock the column and wouldn't unlock itself and had to be towed home. An eliminator worked but only randomly would it start. Resoldered the SCLM board and thrashed around the relays and it starts every time now. I still worry that the relays might hang up (if that was the initial problem) but cling to the hope that it will at least randomly start after cycling the start button enough times to get me home.
mazzerman , sound like you have a Export vet, so yes the 2005 lock eliminator will work in your car to take the steering lock out of play.
Hence USA model cars only have the steering lock on the 2005 M6 car only, but export cars get to the lock on later years due to export regs instead.
As for replacement SCLM not needing SPS programming, really mixed cases, since have see it go back ways with some plug and play, while others needing to be SPS programmed to get it to shake on the correct GM security key with the BCM instead.
I still worry that the relays might hang up (if that was the initial problem) but cling to the hope that it will at least randomly start after cycling the start button enough times to get me home.
Mouser has the replacement relays, and all 4 will only be around $12 to just replace the 4 relays on the board.
I just cheat, pull the relay covers, and given the contact points a quick clean up instead (carry over for the days of owning British Leyland cars littered with Lucas electrical parts, that would burn up relay contact points like their where chicklet chewing gum in a few months each).
01-16-2018, 11:39 AM
Remove column lock?
, but I'll ask anyway because I'm curious. If the column lock eliminator uses resistor values and a relays, why can't I use some toggle switches and resistors to do the same thing manually? Is timing of the signal a consideration as well ?
