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Clearing TPMS Codes

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Old 02-06-2018, 02:23 PM
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Jaa6921
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Default Clearing TPMS Codes

I guess one of my tpms wheel transmitters decided it had reached the end of its battery life and was slow to read and showing the XX errors in the DIC. So I bought four of the correct replacements and had Discount Tire replace them all.

The tire pressure icon (orange one) is coming on after about 20 mins of driving, but the individual tire pressures show. Sometimes an error.

SO is this just old codes that have to be erase?? or is there something else in the car that needs to be fixed??

Standard OBD scanners do not appear to see the codes even when the tire warning light is on

My Vette is a 2013 GS C6

Thanks for your responses

John A
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:26 PM
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It will clear itself. The DIC does not keep TPMS readings in its memory. No need to reset anything. May take a few miles of driving, but it will be fine.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:27 PM
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200 miles so far and the lamp still comes on. Is there anything on the car side that can go faulty??

I'm scared to ask my GM dealer - it could be expensive.

Thanks
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Old 02-06-2018, 03:09 PM
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Go back to Discount and have them reset the sensors again. If it keeps happening it could be a faulty sensor on the car as apposed to the wheel sensors.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jaredtxrx View Post
Go back to Discount and have them reset the sensors again. If it keeps happening it could be a faulty sensor on the car as apposed to the wheel sensors.
Well 300 miles later the warnings stopped. All appears to be well

I am still not clear how the devices in the tire communicate with the car.

Thanks for your comments

Johna
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaa6921 View Post
Well 300 miles later the warnings stopped. All appears to be well

I am still not clear how the devices in the tire communicate with the car.

Thanks for your comments

Johna

TPMS's have a pressure switch that turns them on when the tires are rolling. So until you start driving the car, then DCI will show the old readings of when you turned the car off from the last time isntead. Hence start the car and drive a few blocks, and the DCI tire pressures will be updated/

Each TPMS signal is set to the Remote Control door lock receiver in the dash above the radio (fob signals also sent to the same module), and that signal is sent to the BCM via the GM land bus, which then is sent to the DIC in the dash gauge cluster.


If it's a learn programming problem with the TPMS's to the RCDLR programming, you end up with 00 messages in the DIC for that sensor (just need to re-lean the tpms to the RCDLR to solve the problem), while if the batteries in the TPMS's are dead, then you get the XX's in the DIC (drivers information center read out on the bottom of the dash gauge assembly ) for that sensor instead.

As for relearning the TPMS's to the car, all that is needed is a tool to trigger each TPMS one at time in the right order, and the fob.


Last edited by Dano523; 02-07-2018 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:49 PM
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Thanks for explaining. I appreciate you taking the time and posting that video. I had ordered a reset tool but as its fixed itself it can go back.....

Any ideas on how the key fob seat memory system can be made reliable?? The dealership failed and now warranty has passed and I moved... Are there any "suspect" connectors in this car that should be cleaned/serviced that cause these type of problems.

Thanks again??
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523 View Post
TPMS's have a pressure switch that turns them on when the tires are rolling. So until you start driving the car, then DCI will show the old readings of when you turned the car off from the last time isntead. Hence start the car and drive a few blocks, and the DCI tire pressures will be updated/

Each TPMS signal is set to the Remote Control door lock receiver in the dash above the radio (fob signals also sent to the same module), and that signal is sent to the BCM via the GM land bus, which then is sent to the DIC in the dash gauge cluster.


If it's a learn programming problem with the TPMS's to the RCDLR programming, you end up with 00 messages in the DIC for that sensor (just need to re-lean the tpms to the RCDLR to solve the problem), while if the batteries in the TPMS's are dead, then you get the XX's in the DIC (drivers information center read out on the bottom of the dash gauge assembly ) for that sensor instead.

As for relearning the TPMS's to the car, all that is needed is a tool to trigger each TPMS one at time in the right order, and the fob.

https://youtu.be/64-4mnwWwN0
You don't need to drive the car to get updated pressure readings in the DIC. Merely starting the car or doing a powerup will activate the RCDLR to request the current pressure for each sensor.
The 20 mph is just the speed needed to acquire enough centrifugal force to connect the switch on new sensors. Once connected, the tire never needs to move again. Usually, the spin balancer is spun fast enough to do the initial activation. The sensors don't turn on and off. They only respond to a request from the RCDLR.
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH View Post
You don't need to drive the car to get updated pressure readings in the DIC. Merely starting the car or doing a powerup will activate the RCDLR to request the current pressure for each sensor.
The 20 mph is just the speed needed to acquire enough centrifugal force to connect the switch on new sensors. Once connected, the tire never needs to move again. Usually, the spin balancer is spun fast enough to do the initial activation. The sensors don't turn on and off. They only respond to a request from the RCDLR.
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaa6921 View Post
200 miles so far and the lamp still comes on. Is there anything on the car side that can go faulty??

I'm scared to ask my GM dealer - it could be expensive.

Thanks
I had my sensors replaced at Discount Tire when I got new tires. One of them gave the XX reading after 15-20 minutes. They replaced it and the new one did the same thing. So I had the dealer fix it. $200+ so yeah, expensive!
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:28 AM
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More questions.......

I've not had problems with the TPMS system until this recent one.

The way it manifested itself is that I got an XX error from the Rear Left tire, and after taking my car into DiscoutTire, for a check and rebalance, they commented that this particular sensor was slow in responding. Based on that I decided to replace all sensors in the tires with an OEM unit.

After this it appeared to be more reliable going 1 hour before an error - but then I started to get more errors - of the XX variety in the DIC.

I have re activated/learnt the sensors via the push button box but the TPMS light continues to come on accompanied by XX messages after about an hour of driving but the missing tire pressures come back very fast during the drive - within minutes - but of course the yellow warning stays on until a restart.

So is this the receiver that is failing - is this the same unit that manages door unlock??

Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot further??

Thanks

JohnA
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaa6921 View Post
More questions.......

I've not had problems with the TPMS system until this recent one.

The way it manifested itself is that I got an XX error from the Rear Left tire, and after taking my car into DiscoutTire, for a check and rebalance, they commented that this particular sensor was slow in responding. Based on that I decided to replace all sensors in the tires with an OEM unit.

After this it appeared to be more reliable going 1 hour before an error - but then I started to get more errors - of the XX variety in the DIC.

I have re activated/learnt the sensors via the push button box but the TPMS light continues to come on accompanied by XX messages after about an hour of driving but the missing tire pressures come back very fast during the drive - within minutes - but of course the yellow warning stays on until a restart.

So is this the receiver that is failing - is this the same unit that manages door unlock??

Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot further??

Thanks

JohnA
Sounds like problem in the RCDLR.


I would first start by unplugging all the connectors on it, given them and the pins all a good electrical spray contact cleaning, and see if that solves the problem.

If it does not, would pull the RCDLR apart to get to the board and start checking for cold solder joints on the board that may just need to be re-soldered.

Hence on this RCDLR board, look at the cold solder joints on the bottom/center of the board header pins that need to be re-soldered to fix it.



If and after that, if you still have problems, then would be time to replace the RCDLR next.

But since the problem is intermediate, tells me a problem with either cold solder joint on the board, or one of the connects having a problem instead. If the board went out with a bad chip or resistor, it's not going to a on and off problem, but would just be dead all the time instead.
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:04 PM
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Thanks @dano523.

Sounds like I will be "dashboard diving"

I gather the RCDLR sits on top of the center vents. Any idea how its held in place??

Based on my own experiences I think dry solder joints is probably a good thing to look for.

I assume this unit needs Tech 2 programming if a new one is installed

Again, Thanks

John A
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:02 PM
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How it help in,

Top unit,

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...message-9.html

On the reflash, depends if a new unit, or you are scoring a used unit instead.

Cold solder joint, not dry solder joints. Hence when the board is bath soldered, the header pins take a lot of heat before they warn up enough to allow a the solder to bond correctly to them and the board. This cause the cold solder joints between the pins and boards, as seem in the above photo.

Other side of the board, and you can see the amount of metal that the bath has to heat up the header pins before the solder is going to bond to them correctly. Hence so much heat/bath time, that you could be burning out chips that don't require that much heat instead.



How to pull the center console to get to the RCDLR, and you have it out in the first few mins of the video.

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Old 02-20-2018, 01:38 PM
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A discovery today is that when I disconnected my "new" dash cam - the recurring TPMS errors have gone away. The camera hangs next to the OnStar "brick" behind the mirror which is about 14" away from the dash and the location of the RCDLR unit I was offered a new one to try - that actually works well as a camera..... but clearly pushes out a lot of electromagnetic radiation. Of course its "made in asia", and was cheap - but no compliance certifications or FCC testing mark.
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Old 02-20-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaa6921 View Post
A discovery today is that when I disconnected my "new" dash cam - the recurring TPMS errors have gone away. The camera hangs next to the OnStar "brick" behind the mirror which is about 14" away from the dash and the location of the RCDLR unit I was offered a new one to try - that actually works well as a camera..... but clearly pushes out a lot of electromagnetic radiation. Of course its "made in asia", and was cheap - but no compliance certifications or FCC testing mark.
Well, that is interesting and hopefully the root cause.
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Old 02-20-2018, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaa6921 View Post
A discovery today is that when I disconnected my "new" dash cam - the recurring TPMS errors have gone away. The camera hangs next to the OnStar "brick" behind the mirror which is about 14" away from the dash and the location of the RCDLR unit I was offered a new one to try - that actually works well as a camera..... but clearly pushes out a lot of electromagnetic radiation. Of course its "made in asia", and was cheap - but no compliance certifications or FCC testing mark.
Would not surprise me, since with my Iphone and fob in the same pocket, and car will not see the Fob as well.
Hell, has been known that even some phone chargers will block the fob signal as well.

Last edited by Dano523; 02-20-2018 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523 View Post
Would not surprise me, since with my Iphone and fob in the same pocket, and car will not see the Fob as well.
Hell, has been known that even some phone chargers will block the fob signal as well.
After one week of no dash cam, everything works perfectly.

it seems that the radiated energy from something like this aftermarket device can “swamp” the tpms and keyless entry.

My seat memory system has also decided to perform as expected

However i like the idea of a dash cam so now i need to find one that has been tested and is compliant to the FCC standards.

Anyone who has problems with the Vette systems should check their ancilliary electrics.

Thanks for all the help on this one!

John A
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