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In my case I have a corsa mid pipe that is 2.5 inch followed by corsa sports at 2.5 Inch....Really if the headers exit at the Stock location then obviously going with Billy boat headers would not in fact offer a restriction. Unless your 3 inch all the way the bottleneck will always be tailpipes Which typically measured 2.5 inch ID
I guess I don't quite understand why you would want to connect to the stock mid pipe. The whole idea of going to longtubes is to improve flow through the exhaust. The stock cats and H pipe are horribly restrictive, thats why a ton of people replace them. For nearly the same price you can get a catless mid pipe and headers that will significantly improve flow through the system; and in turn power if its tuned for it.
The "long" part of the LTs - the long runners - are what increases power. The BBs have a long runner with a shorter merge section. From all the dyno comparisons theres almost zero power difference between LT+x vs BB LTs. Price differential was 300ish for BB vs Kooks/ARH/etc. 30% off is not "a little more" for basically no power gain.
The "long" part of the LTs - the long runners - are what increases power. The BBs have a long runner with a shorter merge section. From all the dyno comparisons theres almost zero power difference between LT+x vs BB LTs. Price differential was 300ish for BB vs Kooks/ARH/etc. 30% off is not "a little more" for basically no power gain.
Really ... do you always belive what you read ...
And the power gain has nothing to do with the collector design and the scavaging and it is all about the long tube ..... ??? Right..... I have a prime peice of land to sell you in Florida
And the power gain has nothing to do with the collector design and the scavaging and it is all about the long tube ..... ??? Right..... I have a prime peice of land to sell you in Florida
Dave
From what I understand the scavaging is very important. Help the exhaust escape faster correct?
From what I understand the scavaging is very important. Help the exhaust escape faster correct?
Yes it's all about the scavenging , the lenght of the tube and the diameter affect where in the torque band the power will come in , small diameter long tubes make power down low and large diameter tubes make power higher , now there are many debates on what's the best size for our car but thats not what we are talking about here .......
it is all about the most important part , the collector and its design as this is what facilitates the scavenging of the cylinders . Ask any drag racer how many different collectors designs they have ( their collectors slide on and off to facilitate change outs )
Get the x pipe , even if u have to save a bit. Running headers without the crossover pipe is like taking a shower with your shoes on ....
Yes it's all about the scavenging , the lenght of the tube and the diameter affect where in the torque band the power will come in , small diameter long tubes make power down low and large diameter tubes make power higher , now there are many debates on what's the best size for our car but thats not what we are talking about here .......
it is all about the most important part , the collector and its design as this is what facilitates the scavenging of the cylinders . Ask any drag racer how many different collectors designs they have ( their collectors slide on and off to facilitate change outs )
Get the x pipe , even if u have to save a bit. Running headers without the crossover pipe is like taking a shower with your shoes on ....
Dave
Yeah once I get my tax return Im going with the Hinson Headers with catted x pipe. Only question is 1 3/4 or 1 7/8.
Simple experiment on how headers work, very simple
NSF PS if I'm not mistaken Hinsons X pipe uses the "H" type crossover instead of the "X" type, controversy there also but at least you know which is which.
No heads work.. maybe...and a very small maybe get a cam one day. Probably not though. Bolt ons is probably as far as I go.
No big cam/heads/forced induction? Go with the 1 3/4" tube size. And if I were you, I would buy the matching X pipe along with what ever header manufacturer you choose to eliminate any headaches
No big cam/heads/forced induction? Go with the 1 3/4" tube size. And if I were you, I would buy the matching X pipe along with what ever header manufacturer you choose to eliminate any headaches
Here we go .... let the games and all the internet legends begin lol lol lol
And the power gain has nothing to do with the collector design and the scavaging and it is all about the long tube ..... ??? Right..... I have a prime peice of land to sell you in Florida
Dave
When I did my due diligence and research no tuner ever explicitly said the BBs made less power than any other LT+x combo. Hell, most tuners said merge spikes would make you less HP than their dyno could accurately measure.
The BBs have LTs and are 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 just like any other LT. Length of the tubes are roughly the same. Merge area is a little short so you -might- lose power. Same idea as the merge spikes.
When I stated its the "long part that makes power" I OBVIOUSLY did not mean the longer the better. I meant the length of the tube for these applications is what creates the scavenging effect that makes power.
I stand by my claim that the whole point of long tubes is a long straight section of pipe - and as long as that section of pipe has relatively smooth curves, the length is all that really matters in terms of headers. My OEM system has an X pipe too so theres no difference there.
Most of my info comes from reading up on well-known tuners recommendations - no first hand experience but probably the 2nd best method of learning.
A guy to search out would be anthony (previous LGM employee) who had a lot of good info on header sizing.
No big cam/heads/forced induction? Go with the 1 3/4" tube size. And if I were you, I would buy the matching X pipe along with what ever header manufacturer you choose to eliminate any headaches
I found most tuners recommend the larger 1-7/8 for the LS3 and the 1-3/4 for most LS2s. Still, you probably wont notice a difference in power with either until you start doing stuff to it.
When I did my due diligence and research no tuner ever explicitly said the BBs made less power than any other LT+x combo. Hell, most tuners said merge spikes would make you less HP than their dyno could accurately measure.
The BBs have LTs and are 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 just like any other LT. Length of the tubes are roughly the same. Merge area is a little short so you -might- lose power. Same idea as the merge spikes.
When I stated its the "long part that makes power" I OBVIOUSLY did not mean the longer the better. I meant the length of the tube for these applications is what creates the scavenging effect that makes power.
I stand by my claim that the whole point of long tubes is a long straight section of pipe - and as long as that section of pipe has relatively smooth curves, the length is all that really matters in terms of headers. My OEM system has an X pipe too so theres no difference there.
Most of my info comes from reading up on well-known tuners recommendations - no first hand experience but probably the 2nd best method of learning.
A guy to search out would be anthony (previous LGM employee) who had a lot of good info on header sizing.
Now that you worded it this way ...... much different context !
Simple experiment on how headers work, very simple
NSF PS if I'm not mistaken Hinsons X pipe uses the "H" type crossover instead of the "X" type, controversy there also but at least you know which is which.
PERFECT EXPLINATION Bobby of why the collector is so important in the design of the headers
its all a science , tube length , collector design etc all to achieve a desired outcome ,
At the risk of over simplification because there are so many other factors involved , one being reversion ..., where do I want the gain to come in on the power band ?
With all things being equal do I want more power on top and a little less torque ... use large tube , do I want a little less total power but more torque on the bottom , use small tube
Looking at buy the Hinson headers to go with my always open NPP. Question is.. Do I need the mid pipe to go with it? Or is the stock one still fine?
Is your stock mid-pipe going to line up with the header outlets? Have you checked the measurements?
there is nothing special about the mid-pipe, but it has to fit to the headers. The mid-pipe is just tubing for the exhaust. As long as it is "X", or "H" configured, it will balance the pulses, and work fine. The exception would be when you get to maybe 500HP and more...you would want a full 3" pipe all the way. No need for that on a mostly stock LS3.
Yes, possible over-simplification, and I understand that. He is not going to Turbo/SC, and probably not a cam...
Last edited by buckmeister2; Feb 18, 2018 at 08:09 AM.