Finally got her running
#1
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Thread Starter
Finally got her running
Well it’s been about 8 months since I blew my engine,
Finally got the new one finished and installed, pretty happy with the way it’s coming together.
Here’s Quick rundown
Iron block, new factory crank, lunati rods, wesico dished pistons
Original heads just cleaned up, BTR dual valve spring kit with titanium retainers, BTR push rods, oem rockers with trunion upgrade, CCP jam cam
With 115 deg lobe separation, ARP main, rod, and head bolts, A&A s/c kit si-trim, SLP long tubes, corsa header back, meth injection, and still waiting on delivery of the ECS stage 1 fuel system, then off to get tuned, bunch of other stuff but that’s the main things.
Hoping to be In the neighborhood of 700 wheel.
Here’s a Few pictures of the engine, and oil cooler.
I removed the left steer brake duct and it fits like a glove, the oil cooler and lines added just under 2 qts of oil capacity to the system. The “brackets” look cheap but the cooler is solid as a rock
cold start
after it was running for a bit.
Finally got the new one finished and installed, pretty happy with the way it’s coming together.
Here’s Quick rundown
Iron block, new factory crank, lunati rods, wesico dished pistons
Original heads just cleaned up, BTR dual valve spring kit with titanium retainers, BTR push rods, oem rockers with trunion upgrade, CCP jam cam
With 115 deg lobe separation, ARP main, rod, and head bolts, A&A s/c kit si-trim, SLP long tubes, corsa header back, meth injection, and still waiting on delivery of the ECS stage 1 fuel system, then off to get tuned, bunch of other stuff but that’s the main things.
Hoping to be In the neighborhood of 700 wheel.
Here’s a Few pictures of the engine, and oil cooler.
I removed the left steer brake duct and it fits like a glove, the oil cooler and lines added just under 2 qts of oil capacity to the system. The “brackets” look cheap but the cooler is solid as a rock
cold start
Last edited by Judge387; 03-19-2018 at 10:35 PM.
#2
Please tell me that you increased the gaps of the piston rings, so you don't have this happening again. Hence top rings at .025"~.030" range to start with.
Hence rings not increased gaped, they grow with the increased heat, go to zero gap to bind on the cylinder wall, and snap the head's off the pistons every time.
As for LSX steel block, its a waste for only 700hp, and just adds more weight isntead.
Hence standard aluminum block would have worked fine, since it was not the block that had problems to begin with, but the rings gaped too tight with the SC that caused the engine KB instead.
Hell, LSX block built correctly with a S/C, and you should be in the 1.5K HP range to begin with.
Also, lost on the aftermarket intake manifold, and 105tb, since the motor is being forced feed air, and the OEM intakes can take a lot of pressure before they blow apart/the stock size TB size is not a problem even up to the 1.5K HP levels with a S/C in play. And for all that is holy, please tell me that you dropped the compression down below 9 to 1, since again, SC in play, and it's what you want to bring the pressure up instead.
Hence rings not increased gaped, they grow with the increased heat, go to zero gap to bind on the cylinder wall, and snap the head's off the pistons every time.
As for LSX steel block, its a waste for only 700hp, and just adds more weight isntead.
Hence standard aluminum block would have worked fine, since it was not the block that had problems to begin with, but the rings gaped too tight with the SC that caused the engine KB instead.
Hell, LSX block built correctly with a S/C, and you should be in the 1.5K HP range to begin with.
Also, lost on the aftermarket intake manifold, and 105tb, since the motor is being forced feed air, and the OEM intakes can take a lot of pressure before they blow apart/the stock size TB size is not a problem even up to the 1.5K HP levels with a S/C in play. And for all that is holy, please tell me that you dropped the compression down below 9 to 1, since again, SC in play, and it's what you want to bring the pressure up instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 03-19-2018 at 10:57 PM.
#3
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Thread Starter
Yes, the rings were gaped for boost. And I went with an iron bock cause I came across it at a steal, and I’m just waiting for the trans to let go and supercharger upgrade is coming so the iron block is comforting.
I know the aluminum block still would have been fine, again the price I got the iron short block for I just couldn’t pass up.
Not really worried about a little extra weight, I don’t see this car ever being raced competitively.
Also the intake is stock just hydro dipped, and throttle body is also stock... just cleaned and clear coated
I know the aluminum block still would have been fine, again the price I got the iron short block for I just couldn’t pass up.
Not really worried about a little extra weight, I don’t see this car ever being raced competitively.
Also the intake is stock just hydro dipped, and throttle body is also stock... just cleaned and clear coated
Last edited by Judge387; 03-19-2018 at 11:01 PM.
#4
Stock OEM crank is good for about 1kHP, so what did you build the rest of the motor with parts to hold to at least 1KHP to?
Also, did you drop the compression on the motor build for S/C boost as well?
Also, did you drop the compression on the motor build for S/C boost as well?
#5
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hopefully he had the seller of the shortblock provide accurate data on the specs. related to ring gaps, etc.