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Dielectric grease is non-conductive and can work as an insulator especially in low voltage situations. Here is a quote:
Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Because it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector.The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector.
Bullshit.Internet forums thrive on myths.use your GM dielectric grease and you will never have an issue with connectivity between plugs,wires,boots and coils. Check www.w8ji.com
Bullshit.Internet forums thrive on myths.use your GM dielectric grease and you will never have an issue with connectivity between plugs,wires,boots and coils. Check www.w8ji.com
Touche on the internet myths Ace
Here is a simple alley mechanic test for you smart guy. Lay a bead of dielectric grease out on a piece of cardboard and do a continuity test on each end of the bead, if you know what a continuity test is. Tell us know what your results are.
You want to smear that stuff all over the electrical contacts in your car...go for it!
Here is a simple alley mechanic test for you smart guy. Lay a bead of dielectric grease out on a piece of cardboard and do a continuity test on each end of the bead, if you know what a continuity test is. Tell us know what your results are.
You want to smear that stuff all over the electrical contacts in your car...go for it!
NHTSA-GM RECALL BULLETIN NO.13036B September 2015 do exactly as you said and is the cure for connectivity problems in this safety recall.possibly you may know better than the NHTSA and all the GM engineers but I DOUBT IT!!!like you said your a half assed alley mechanic. use GM p/n 12377900 dielectric grease or Acdelco equivalent
Here is a simple alley mechanic test for you smart guy. Lay a bead of dielectric grease out on a piece of cardboard and do a continuity test on each end of the bead, if you know what a continuity test is. Tell us know what your results are.
You want to smear that stuff all over the electrical contacts in your car...go for it!
try your half assed alley mechanic continuity test on metal connectors not cardboard
try your half assed alley mechanic continuity test on metal connectors not cardboard
Are you that lame?....Sorry, I've wasted enough time on "white noise". Go grease your pins junior. Hopefully people are smart enough to know what advice to follow.
Are you that lame?....Sorry, I've wasted enough time on "white noise". Go grease your pins junior. Hopefully people are smart enough to know what advice to follow.
Guys .... guys.... this post is going off the rails real fast .... let's keep it on topic ...........wow !!!!!!!!
OP find someone with a TECH II or other tool that can display misfire count by cylinder. If no misfire then it is just the normal LS3 idle which we all can agree is not smooth ....
If you have a misfire , check to see if it's only one cylinder, if so swap out components like plug , wire , coil ,till misfire in that cylinder stops , then u will know instantly what part needs to be replaced .
If you have random misfires in multiple cylinders then you know that it's either the type of plug you are using , type of wire if not OEM or your number 1 plug wire is getting RF induced by the Alternator positive cable , move the cable and solve your problems
My 2010 GS idled rough. The alternator cable was sitting on the plug wire. Just like Irok suggested, I fixed that and it now idles fine.
I just took a look at my alternator power supply cable and it's run thru a plastic loom just about an 1/4 of an inch away from the sparkplug boot/cable. I did move it but have not started the car yet. I'll give it a try tomorrow morning right after I take my top off. 65-70 degrees all week can't wait. I'll post any changes in idle.
The car had this problem when it came. I have driven it 4 days after that and the problem is still there. I have just changed the air filter auctually - the car is still in the workshop and I haven't driven it since, because they still try to fix the problem with the idle. So I doubt that the air filter has anything to do with it, to be honest.
Leave the K&N filter in.I've been using K&N for years as have many others and NEVER have I had a dirty MAF...Don't believe the guys that have never used a K&N,but always have a negative attitude about them...Good Luck.
Leave the K&N filter in.I've been using K&N for years as have many others and NEVER have I had a dirty MAF...Don't believe the guys that have never used a K&N,but always have a negative attitude about them...Good Luck.
This was on the forum a few years back, but I didn't save the whole thread, only the chart of the results. Saved June 2, 2016, so the article must have been at or prior to that date. It's way to late for me to look it up tonight.
Pretty clear to see where the AC (Donaldson) filter ranked compared to the K&N.
This was on the forum a few years back, but I didn't save the whole thread, only the chart of the results. Saved June 2, 2016, so the article must have been at or prior to that date. It's way to late for me to look it up tonight.
Pretty clear to see where the AC (Donaldson) filter ranked compared to the K&N.
I have driven a couple of vehicles for many years and approaching or over 200k miles with K&N oiled filters installed. Never had an issue with the MAF or with the engine, such as excessive oil burning or smoking. The dirt allowed to pass evidently made little difference, so I suspect the chart offers little more than anecdotal evidence. This is only my opinion, and each individual must make their own mind up regarding what is right for them. My GS is and will remain stock because that is what I decided to do. If I was going to do something I would buy a drop-in, dry-type washable filter, simply because it eliminates the messy reoil process.
I just took a look at my alternator power supply cable and it's run thru a plastic loom just about an 1/4 of an inch away from the sparkplug boot/cable. I did move it but have not started the car yet. I'll give it a try tomorrow morning right after I take my top off. 65-70 degrees all week can't wait. I'll post any changes in idle.
Just back from a three hour drive and YES there is difference in the idle. A little smoother. So Thanks for info. It's the little things in life that make life GOOD
I just took a look at my alternator power supply cable and it's run thru a plastic loom just about an 1/4 of an inch away from the sparkplug boot/cable. I did move it but have not started the car yet. I'll give it a try tomorrow morning right after I take my top off. 65-70 degrees all week can't wait. I'll post any changes in idle.
I repositioned my alternator cable but no difference in the idle for me. Oh well.
03-27-2018, 08:34 AM
