Replacing convertible hydraulic pump
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 31
From: Richmond Texas
Replacing convertible hydraulic pump
After 10 years and a 100k miles, the top on my car has quit working. First, the DIC popped up saying the top wasn't secure (which it was). Thinking it had just wiggled itself a little bit I unlatched it and when I went to relatch it the handle broke off in my hand. Great. So got it closed, light went off, went on my way. Then the light comes back on. So I figure I'll open the whole roof and reclose it and maybe that'll reset it. Well, the roof won't open or close with the button and is now stuck half open. Get it closed, take it to the dealer, and they say the valve on the hydraulic pump is leaking and the whole thing will have to be replaced to the tune of $3400 (that doesn't include replacing the broken handle which is an additional $300). I have spent the last 2 days searching this forum and either I suck at searching or there has been no one on this board who has ever replaced the hydraulic pump for their convertible top in a C6.
Since I refuse to believe that no one has attempted this repair themselves, I'm asking who here has done it and can you point me to the best reference for doing it?
Since I refuse to believe that no one has attempted this repair themselves, I'm asking who here has done it and can you point me to the best reference for doing it?
Last edited by BigBlue; Apr 4, 2018 at 10:31 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 70
Likes: 17
First thing I would do is re-index the windows. I thought my top failed on me as well and it was as simple as reindexing that got the top working again. As far as the cost, that seems a bit steep. The pump can be found for new $1400, used for ~$350 and depending on what other parts are needed, the estimate seems high.
When this happens to me I am going to covert it to a manual top. I believe there would be minimal changes needed, mainly around the latch and pull down mechanism.
When this happens to me I am going to covert it to a manual top. I believe there would be minimal changes needed, mainly around the latch and pull down mechanism.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 554
From: Pittsburgh PA
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 31
From: Richmond Texas
Car has been at the shop so I haven’t had a chance to check the little things like that. Won’t be able to pick it up until Friday.
I found the pump online both new and rebuilt for between $500-1600. That’s why I’m thinking about doing this myself. Trickiest thing I can think of would be bleeding the lines and trying to not make a mess.
On another note, the dealer did offer me 11k for trade in as is on a new grand sport which was much higher than I expected for a car with over a 100k miles and a broken top. Makes me think the top isn’t as broke as they say it is.
I found the pump online both new and rebuilt for between $500-1600. That’s why I’m thinking about doing this myself. Trickiest thing I can think of would be bleeding the lines and trying to not make a mess.
On another note, the dealer did offer me 11k for trade in as is on a new grand sport which was much higher than I expected for a car with over a 100k miles and a broken top. Makes me think the top isn’t as broke as they say it is.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 130
Likes: 13
From: Wichita kansas
I have just went through the same thing. Got in my car Friday, nice enough to put the top down and nothing. No message from the DIC, zero, it wouldn't do a thing. It was like the top was completely dead. I got it home, checked all the fuses, all fuses looked good. Researched and discovered I should re-index the windows. Did this multiple times and still nothing. Decided to take it to the dealer. Found out today that there's a 30 amp fuse that is blown (where its located at, I have no clue) as looked at all the ones in the passenger side floor board. Was informed by the dealer that the motor is getting weak causing the fuse to blow. Motor according to them is $1800 not including the labor to install. Glad I purchased the extended warranty when I bought the car. 43000 miles on the clock and have already had to change the front wheel bearings and now the convertible top motor. Warranty has paid for itself.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 130
Likes: 13
From: Wichita kansas
Stealership told me today that is under the hood and not in the passenger floor board where I looked. I looked at the fuse box layout in the owners manual and didn't see anything related to it, but that doesn't mean much
Last edited by uloozer; Apr 5, 2018 at 06:05 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 11,367
Likes: 211
From: Edgewood Washington
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
When you get the "top not secure" DIC message and you know the top is latched down tight, it's usually due to the switch in the upper A-pillar on the driver's side.
There's a pin on the top that makes contact with this switch as it secures the corner of the top to the A-pillar/header.
With the top partially open you can use a small screwdriver to push the switch in and test whether it's still functioning or not.
And.........if you do this test with the car on and the Bose radio playing, you will hear a brief mute and a change in tonality as the switch is toggled.
There's a pin on the top that makes contact with this switch as it secures the corner of the top to the A-pillar/header.
With the top partially open you can use a small screwdriver to push the switch in and test whether it's still functioning or not.
And.........if you do this test with the car on and the Bose radio playing, you will hear a brief mute and a change in tonality as the switch is toggled.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 11,367
Likes: 211
From: Edgewood Washington
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Try this............
Take the eraser off of a pencil, or make a small ball from a wad of electrical tape.
Unlatch the top and pull it up far enough to drop one of the above 'spacers' into the hole at the top of the driver's side A-pillar.
Then re-latch the top and see if that forces the switch to close, eliminating the DIC warning.
And...you can open the trunk with the metal key even with the warning preventing 'normal' electronic operation. Of course the alarm will go off, but at least you can get in the trunk.
Good Luck with this PITA.
Take the eraser off of a pencil, or make a small ball from a wad of electrical tape.
Unlatch the top and pull it up far enough to drop one of the above 'spacers' into the hole at the top of the driver's side A-pillar.
Then re-latch the top and see if that forces the switch to close, eliminating the DIC warning.
And...you can open the trunk with the metal key even with the warning preventing 'normal' electronic operation. Of course the alarm will go off, but at least you can get in the trunk.
Good Luck with this PITA.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 31
From: Richmond Texas
Thanks. I’ll give it a shot.
Is there a DIY or something available for swapping out the pump or should I just dive in and figure it out?
Is there a DIY or something available for swapping out the pump or should I just dive in and figure it out?
Last edited by BigBlue; Apr 8, 2018 at 12:56 PM.