JABCAT

I'll be picking up a set of 1 7/8" ARH longtubes with a catted x-pipe next week & plan to have my son help me install them in the garage. I've been reading the various header install posts & watched some unhelpful youtube vids. It's been about 15 years since I did a longtube install & it was on 2 different F-body cars. Obviously the GS has a lot more room to get to things so it shouldn't take as long as those cars did. I already have the BB Bullet exhaust - I'm assuming the x-pipe will bolt right up?

I've got 2 jacks, 4 jack stands, basic socket sets, wrenches, torque wrenches, etc. Any other tools must haves? Where can I find the torque specs for the header bolts? I've read some lift the engine to get the pass side in, some don't? I've got a manual dry sump so I've read I will have to drain the oil & do an oil change. Some recommend new plug wires, some say stock is fine? Car has just a tick over 33k miles. Will get it tuned after install - should I also add a CAI at the same time - or is there not much to be gained there? Thanks!

irok

spray penetrating oil on all the exhaust manifold,cat converters and x-pipe fasteners this week and will make things easier next week.1st pass on exhaust manifold bolts 11 lb/ft and 2nd pass 18 lb/ft

d.medic

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/c6-c...-instructions/
Recommended Tools:
 3/8” drive ratchet & extensions
 1/2” drive ratchet & extensions
 13mm wrench
 15mm wrench
 22mm wrench
 10mm socket
 13mm deep well socket
 15mm deep well socket
 5/8” Spark plug socket
 10mm hex bit socket
 Various ratchet extensions and swivels
 Torque wrench
 Mechanics hook or pick
 Anti-Seize compound
 Hose Pinch-Off Tool (cars equipped with oil to water cooler only)

JABCAT

Thank you!

d.medic

you bet, I'm doing the same thing in the next few weeks! Your car just keeps getting better and better!

Kurt D

Honestly the install is VERY straight forward and much easier than a F-body.

1) Get the car as high as you can safely so you have plenty of room to work; like 19-20 inches up at least.

2) There is this little ratchet chain drive extension called a tite-reach for you socket set; it's worth it's weight in gold. There's tons more room under the hood of the vette compared to a F-body but there are still some header/manifold bolts that are difficult to reach easily. That little thing allows you to keep your hand up high and away from sharp objects, yet you can still break all the manifold bolts and spark plugs loose with ease. Works great with a ratchet and torque wrench, doesn't do impact guns well though (the chain drive dissipates the impact torque).

3) O2 sockets - get them from Autozone's loan a tool program. You need a deep/thin wall socket to get the primary O2s out.

4) Also be prepared for a stripped or stuck O2; not all part stores carry replacements in stock. You may want to do a quick search of the local parts houses just in case. Example: Autozone and Advance here only have the O2s as special order; O'Riely's, though, actually stocks them (had 1 each front and rear on hand).

5) Yes, you will need to do an oil change on the dry sump engine.

6) Stock plug wires work fine with lots of clearance on my Kook's 1 7/8 headers.

7) CAI will net you 0 on the dyno, it might recover IAT at speed quicker than stock helping to eliminate spark retard (of course the tuner can adjust this table were it's less a issue).

8) Some metal ties to help tie up wires in places that heat up a lot. You can get some heat shield tubing to protect lines/wires if you want, it's like $40 for 3 feet x 1 1/2 tubing from Summit. I used some but didn't find it necessary.

9) Assuming you ARH X pipe is for a 09+ it'll bolt up to you B&B.

10) I'm assuming new headers? If so you should have all the extensions, gaskets, etc. If used you'll need these things if they don't come with.

11) DO NOT tighten the headers up to the heads, in fact leave them backed out some, until everything under the car is lined up and snugged up. Then toque them and tighten the rest of the exhaust. We made that mistake installing mine - torqued the header bolts first and there was 1/2 inch gap from misalignment from the collector to the X pipe. Backed the header bolts off, aligned the collectors and X-pipe, snugged that, then torqued and everything pulled together perfectly.

JABCAT

Appreciate the compliments. I've received the ok from the "boss" for the headers + tune & the 427 Carbon fiber hood + paint. After that she wants $ to start going toward a pool & outdoor kitchen (which doesn't help me enjoy my car more but will make her & the kids happy) so I just

FloridaC6

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