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Are the Pfadt wheel alignment specs the same as the factory specs for a 2008 Z51 coupe? I read that the Grand sports should use Pfadt specs over the factory specs for better tire wear for street use, just wondering. Car goes in on Monday for an alignment. Thanks in advance for any information on this.
No, they're not. I don't remember what the factory specs are, I just remember they're not the same. That's the reason I had my dealer set mine the same as the PFADT specs for street use.
The PFADT settings for my base C6 are tighter but still within the factory settings. I wore a front tire to the cord on the inside but the alignment was still within the factory settings.
I think the factory settings are too loose. Hopefully PfADT will help tire wear by being more precise.
The PFADT settings for my base C6 are tighter but still within the factory settings. I wore a front tire to the cord on the inside but the alignment was still within the factory settings.
I think the factory settings are too loose. Hopefully PfADT will help tire wear by being more precise.
Thank you. Today I took my wheels off to remove the wheel weights myself, so the shop doesn't use a screwdriver to remove them. I noticed there was more wear to the inside of the tires on the front, with the cord just starting to show. I printed out the Pfadt specs and will bring them with me to the shop.
For the 1000th time PDFAT didn't create the specs they use. They just use GM specs when set to dead center and try to take credit. Here is my 2013 GS set to dead center GM specs, do they look familiar?
I got tired of the fast wear on the front tires of my 2011 GS, so when I had mine aligned awhile ago, I went with specs that pretty much guarantee that the tires will last longer:
For the 1000th time PDFAT didn't create the specs they use. They just use GM specs when set to dead center and try to take credit. Here is my 2013 GS set to dead center GM specs, do they look familiar?
Sorry I bothered you with a repeat question. I did a search and did not find an answer to my question, I was looking for the specs for a 2008 base not a 2013 GS, is there a difference, I don't know and that's what I'm trying to find out. Also I don't know what you are trying to show me there is nothing attached in your post.
For all others thank you for the helpful information.
I was looking for the specs for a 2008 base not a 2013 GS, is there a difference, I don't know and that's what I'm trying to find out
You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure this out. TAKE any GM CORVETTE and set the GM specs dead middle of the machine, there now you have PFDAT SPECS! I used my car as a example, DEAD CENTER DO YOU UNDERSTAND THAT?
For the 1000th time PDFAT didn't create the specs they use. They just use GM specs when set to dead center and try to take credit. Here is my 2013 GS set to dead center GM specs, do they look familiar?
Produces a Cloudflare error. Also, no such thing as PDFAT. It's PFADT, and if you have nothing better to contribute, why don't you sit back and learn something?
Originally Posted by salmonarmvette
Sorry I bothered you with a repeat question. I did a search and did not find an answer to my question, I was looking for the specs for a 2008 base not a 2013 GS, is there a difference, I don't know and that's what I'm trying to find out. Also I don't know what you are trying to show me there is nothing attached in your post.
For all others thank you for the helpful information.
Who cares whether PFADT created those specs or not? The point is PFADT created a document that many can use for their particular driving situation.
And i've been here for almost 14 years and I would like to see those other 999 times he quoted.
Last edited by Vette_DD; Apr 15, 2018 at 02:02 PM.
You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure this out. TAKE any GM CORVETTE and set the GM specs dead middle of the machine, there now you have PFDAT SPECS! I used my car as a example, DEAD CENTER DO YOU UNDERSTAND THAT?
Lighten up Francis. Someone woke up with a case of red *** and must be in SEVERE pain!
And if you are just going to "sunday driving miss daisy cruse the car" all its life, then have the alignment done with the street specs.
This will keep the tire wear even inside and out.
If you are going to push the car, then run oem specs isntead.
Hence oem alignment will have the inner side of the tire threads wearing faster if the car is not pushed from time to time; to wear the outer side of the treads at the same rate by pushing the car isntead.
if you have nothing better to contribute, why don't you sit back and learn something?
Who cares whether PFADT created those specs or not? The point is PFADT created a document that many can use for their particular driving situation.
No you sit back and learn from me and stop giving pfadt credit were it doesn't belong. They ripped off gm specs when they realized their specs were the same as GM when gm's are set to dead center.
So now your admitting PFADT didn't create those specs, they copied and pasted them to a document of their liking and called them their own!
If you are going to push the car, then run oem specs isntead.
Hence oem alignment will have the inner side of the tire threads wearing faster if the car is not pushed from time to time; to wear the outer side of the treads at the same rate by pushing the car isntead.
I run Bridgestone RE-11 's on my 13'GS since the day I took it off the showroom floor. I had the alignment set dead center of GM specs within the first week. The tires wore perfectly even across and handled tremendous. I tossed them with about 40% tread at 18k just for the simple fact I wanted new ones. I am on my second set now with 7k miles on them and they still look brand new. like I said these are what I tell my tech to set them to, just put them dead center (where PFADT robs there specs from) of GM.
I dropped my camber down to -0.4 front, -0.3 rear from the PFADT or GM specs to improve tire wear on the street. Setting less rear camber also improves straight line grip at some expense to cornering grip. If you don't track your car on a road course and want better tire life or if you like launching your car in a straight line, go with less camber.
Have them set the front and rear toe as close to zero as they can without toeing out.
I dropped my camber down to -0.4 front, -0.3 rear from the PFADT or GM specs to improve tire wear on the street. Setting less rear camber also improves straight line grip at some expense to cornering grip.
If you don't track your car on a road course and want better tire life or if you like launching your car in a straight line, go with less camber.
Have them set the front and rear toe as close to zero as they can without toeing out.
You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure this out. TAKE any GM CORVETTE and set the GM specs dead middle of the machine, there now you have PFDAT SPECS! I used my car as a example, DEAD CENTER DO YOU UNDERSTAND THAT?
IIRC, 4 of the 5 specs were towards the middle, and one was not.
The PFADT name was just a convenience to let others who have seen it on here many times know what we're talking about.
And the GM name is a bigger convenience! Their the ones who designed the numbers, not PFADT. You want convience just say GM DEAD CENTER. No need to call numbers out to a tech to then transform them on a alignment maching. Tell you tech, gee mister do you see the green bar, could you but that black little line in the center of the green bar, gee mister thanks.
Alignment question
