Harmonic balancer
#2
Melting Slicks
This topic has been discussed a lot here lately. Use the Search > Click for Advanced Search > Keyword "harmonic balancer" > Search in Forum(s) "C6 Corvette General Discussion" > Search Now. You'll find a wealth of information.
In a nutshell, the OEM harmonic balancer for the C6 has a very bad reputation as a cheap and failure-prone design. Dealerships love it as a cash cow because every one that fails earns them $1000 - $1200 in repair revenues. Most CF users who have had their HB fail will recommend one of the aftermarket harmonic balancer replacements. They're more expensive than the OEM, but you'll only have to pay the labor one time.
In a nutshell, the OEM harmonic balancer for the C6 has a very bad reputation as a cheap and failure-prone design. Dealerships love it as a cash cow because every one that fails earns them $1000 - $1200 in repair revenues. Most CF users who have had their HB fail will recommend one of the aftermarket harmonic balancer replacements. They're more expensive than the OEM, but you'll only have to pay the labor one time.
#3
Burning Brakes
It depends on the balancer, shop used and location. I had mine done at the dealership and was about $1300. They had to do an alignment afterward because they drop the steering rack.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2009
Location: New Jersey
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This topic has been discussed a lot here lately. Use the Search > Click for Advanced Search > Keyword "harmonic balancer" > Search in Forum(s) "C6 Corvette General Discussion" > Search Now. You'll find a wealth of information.
In a nutshell, the OEM harmonic balancer for the C6 has a very bad reputation as a cheap and failure-prone design. Dealerships love it as a cash cow because every one that fails earns them $1000 - $1200 in repair revenues. Most CF users who have had their HB fail will recommend one of the aftermarket harmonic balancer replacements. They're more expensive than the OEM, but you'll only have to pay the labor one time.
In a nutshell, the OEM harmonic balancer for the C6 has a very bad reputation as a cheap and failure-prone design. Dealerships love it as a cash cow because every one that fails earns them $1000 - $1200 in repair revenues. Most CF users who have had their HB fail will recommend one of the aftermarket harmonic balancer replacements. They're more expensive than the OEM, but you'll only have to pay the labor one time.
#5
Drifting
PowerBond Race Series is the best LS balancer for the money. ATI and IV are expensive and not worth the extra coin for most applications. Use the ARP crank bolt and have a shop tell you how they will apply the ARP lube and proper torque foot pounds (wanna say it's 235 ft. lbs.) so that you know, that they know, what they are doing.
A good shop who knows what they are doing can do this for the $700 range, if you supply the parts. Look for coupon codes at AutoZone.com and you actually buy one there, and have it drop shipped directly from Dayco in Memphis to your door.
A good shop who knows what they are doing can do this for the $700 range, if you supply the parts. Look for coupon codes at AutoZone.com and you actually buy one there, and have it drop shipped directly from Dayco in Memphis to your door.
#9
I wouldn't go back with a factory balancer. I bought a ATI because it comes with a lot of recommendation. My balancer wasn't causing problems but I was getting a cam swap and, considering the cost of doing it alone, I could just as easily do it at the same time with no additional labor cost. The harmonic balancer bolt is a one-time only bolt; cannot be reused since it stretches when torqued. Hmm...thought about camming that thing since you're that far into it?....lol
#10
Advanced
Just had mine replaced two weeks ago. Right after 50k miles turned over. The labor cost in Missouri must be much lower than others. I found an independent shop who charged me $220 for labor.
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: lake havasu city arizona
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Had mine done at independent shop, parts around $400 Power bond 1117ss, belts, seal, new bolt. Labor was $500. So much better looking at the balancer spinning like it should instead of a drunk sailor walking
NSF
#12
$220 labor? That's dirt cheap.
#13
Safety Car
#14
Burning Brakes
Even if you take the rack completely out, you still don't need to do an alignment! You're not changing the distance between the tie rod ends because you're not separating them from the rack. The tie rod ends are tapered so they will return exactly to location when reinstalled. The only other concern would be the centering of the steering wheel but there is not nearly enough play in the rack mounting on the Cradle to cause that to happen a noticeable amount. It would certainly still be well within tolerances of their alignment either way. It's amazing what a bunch of lying thieves GM dealers are.
Last edited by Pete2k_Z28; 04-25-2018 at 08:25 AM.
#15
Some of you are getting bent over for the HB repair. I purchased the parts myself and the shop installed it for $360. OTT price for everything was about $550.
#16
Drifting
You should be able to have an ATI SuperDampr and seal installed for $900 including cost of the parts. Purchase a key way kit too, forgot the cost, and have the ATI pinned to the crank. Worth the pennies.
#17
OP didn't mention he's doing FI anywhere, why waste the money on pinning it?
#18
Safety Car
because some after market hb's are not finish machined for the DEW washer.for the pennies it cost even stock or higher hp na cars will have a little extra insurance against hb spinning on crank.would you rather spin hb on the crank snout than spend $3. or $4.damage the crank snout and you will be into it for a few thousand
Last edited by irok; 04-26-2018 at 11:11 AM.
#19
Drifting
#20
Le Mans Master
Now that everyone has told you how much, I am curious as to why you are replacing it.
If you say, "it wobbles", just about all of them wobble. It is a matter of how much wobble.
If you say, "The dealer said I needed it"...every dealer will tell you that you need it.
If you say, "It squeaks", that may be a sign, or you might need a new pulley, or belts.
So, why are you replacing it....?
If you say, "it wobbles", just about all of them wobble. It is a matter of how much wobble.
If you say, "The dealer said I needed it"...every dealer will tell you that you need it.
If you say, "It squeaks", that may be a sign, or you might need a new pulley, or belts.
So, why are you replacing it....?