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Maybe your battery is dead. To open the door from the outside you need to use your key to unlock your trunk and there should be a door release inside the trunk. From inside of your car there is a manual door release by the door jamb, on the floor of the car. Or open the trunk and uncover your battery which is under the mat on the right side and put a battery charger on the battery.
Maybe your battery is dead. To open the door from the outside you need to use your key to unlock your trunk and there should be a door release inside the trunk. From inside of your car there is a manual door release by the door jamb, on the floor of the car. Or open the trunk and uncover your battery which is under the mat on the right side and put a battery charger on the battery.
If your battery is good you can open your back either with the fob or push the button above the plate and pull the cable to open your door if the outside pad and the button on the door does not open your door then it's the door lock in the B pillar (Door Jam) I'm assuming your passenger door is working ok? Note: If you have a coupe the battery is under the hood.
so the manual latch works but the electric lock has failed after it was taken apart and cleaned?
If I got that right, it would appear there is a failed connection or some other failure due to disassembly, cleaning and re-installation. I would take it apart again, inspect and perhaps replace the switch.
I've seen some other threads on here about both of these issues separately but not at the same time. 2005 C6 Coupe. This is drivers side only. Passenger side works fine. Been through all of the contact clean ups, and both pressure switches work ok. Even swapped both sides just to confirm that. Everything worked fine on Saturday, but Sunday morning...zip, nada. Like no signal to the door latch. After the initial failure, I did get in the car via the emergency cable from the back. I shut the car down and restarted it and the window went up and the door worked, one last time. Now, it won't do anything. No noise, no opening from inside or outside switches, drivers window is down and won't go up. I was able to pull the emergency opening cable from the back hatch area into the drivers compartment so at least now I can drive the car and get out of the door manually. Of course, can't roll up the window so that's a problem.
OK, that's the issue. Now I need some help with the fix. I was pretty sure it was that door latch switch however, now I'm not sure because of the window not going up either. I don't think the door latch has anything to do with the window, except the signal to index when you open and close the door. So that led me to the DDM Drivers Door Module. But I'm not sure if that controls both the door switches and the window? Anybody provide help here?
And then finally, I'm reading about the BCM and if that could be the issue. I really don't want to do the trial and error method. Has anyone else had this issue? And resolved it?
If your battery is good you can open your back either with the fob or push the button above the plate and pull the cable to open your door if the outside pad and the button on the door does not open your door then it's the door lock in the B pillar (Door Jam) I'm assuming your passenger door is working ok? Note: If you have a coupe the battery is under the hood.
Following this thread, having the same issue. 2005 C6. Been through the pressure pad routine, all good there. But suddenly my driver door won't open from inside or out. I've already pulled the door latch and started to order that part, then it occurred to me that may not be the problem since the windows won't go up either. I pulled the emergency pull cable back through into the driver compartment so I can at least get out of the car temporarily. But in reading through the big manual, it looks like it could be the DDM (Drivers Door Module) or even the BCM. I was leaning toward the DDM since the passenger side is working fine. But to really check it out it looks like I have to have the dealer do a scan to identify a bad module. Is that correct? I don't want to be robbed by the dealership again. I paid $700 for a window motor & regulator a year ago. Pretty sure I can fix this myself if I can identify the bad part.
Following this thread, having the same issue. 2005 C6. Been through the pressure pad routine, all good there. But suddenly my driver door won't open from inside or out. I've already pulled the door latch and started to order that part, then it occurred to me that may not be the problem since the windows won't go up either. I pulled the emergency pull cable back through into the driver compartment so I can at least get out of the car temporarily. But in reading through the big manual, it looks like it could be the DDM (Drivers Door Module) or even the BCM. I was leaning toward the DDM since the passenger side is working fine. But to really check it out it looks like I have to have the dealer do a scan to identify a bad module. Is that correct? I don't want to be robbed by the dealership again. I paid $700 for a window motor & regulator a year ago. Pretty sure I can fix this myself if I can identify the bad part.
I never heard about a 'DDM'.I would think if it was the BCM both doors would fail?I have no problem with my windows anymore,a few months ago my passenger would not go up with the drivers side window control but it would go up if i reached over and used the switch on the passenger door.I took the main control switch apart and found the problem so i ordered a new one and all is good as this time..Who knows what will go wrong next week. I've had to many problems with the 08 and i got it with '0' miles on it... I only have 79000 miles on it and only drive it about 10 miles a week now...anyway Tony let us know what you find without taking it to a Stealership.....Good Luck.
I never heard about a 'DDM'.I would think if it was the BCM both doors would fail?I have no problem with my windows anymore,a few months ago my passenger would not go up with the drivers side window control but it would go up if i reached over and used the switch on the passenger door.I took the main control switch apart and found the problem so i ordered a new one and all is good as this time..Who knows what will go wrong next week. I've had to many problems with the 08 and i got it with '0' miles on it... I only have 79000 miles on it and only drive it about 10 miles a week now...anyway Tony let us know what you find without taking it to a Stealership.....Good Luck.
Thanks Cherokee. They talk quite a bit about the DDM and (Driver Control Module) in the service manual, and apparently there is one for each door. That was why I was thinking that way, but you can only troubleshoot it by a diagnostic scan which puts me in the dealerships clutches again. I agree, the BCM I would think would pertain to both doors, but who knows. I like you, have had more than my share of problems with electrical system, specifically battery with this car. The 2005 apparently was the only version that required the shifter to be put in Reverse before you shut the car down, or it leaves all the electronics live...big battery drain. Also the feature that wakes the car up whenever you get close to it caused a lot of issues. Anyway, I'm going to the dealer this morning. I'll post the outcome, assuming we get it fixed.
Thanks,
Thanks Cherokee. They talk quite a bit about the DDM and (Driver Control Module) in the service manual, and apparently there is one for each door. That was why I was thinking that way, but you can only troubleshoot it by a diagnostic scan which puts me in the dealerships clutches again. I agree, the BCM I would think would pertain to both doors, but who knows. I like you, have had more than my share of problems with electrical system, specifically battery with this car. The 2005 apparently was the only version that required the shifter to be put in Reverse before you shut the car down, or it leaves all the electronics live...big battery drain. Also the feature that wakes the car up whenever you get close to it caused a lot of issues. Anyway, I'm going to the dealer this morning. I'll post the outcome, assuming we get it fixed.
Thanks,
I don't have a service manual so i have no ideal where the DDM's are located at?Does it show the location in the manual?...Thanks
I don't have a service manual so i have no ideal where the DDM's are located at?Does it show the location in the manual?...Thanks
Just an update. The Stealership (stolen term from Cherokee) let me know today, confirmed it is a bad DDM (drivers door module) and they want $900 to fix it. No thanks, I paid the diagnostic fee and I’ll figure this out for myself. But anyone with any advice on that part or job, I’m all ears
I don't have a service manual so i have no ideal where the DDM's are located at?Does it show the location in the manual?...Thanks
This is getting more confusing as I go. Diagnostics say the DDM is bad. But I can't find a part number for a DDM. In digging into the service manual it looks like the DDM is actually part of the window regulator. (see the pics) Can anyone confirm that is the case? You have to buy a new window regulator in order to get the DDM? From the Service Manual Drivers Side Door Panel Window Regulator Kit
Just an update. The Stealership (stolen term from Cherokee) let me know today, confirmed it is a bad DDM (drivers door module) and they want $900 to fix it. No thanks, I paid the diagnostic fee and I’ll figure this out for myself. But anyone with any advice on that part or job, I’m all ears
May I ask - what did they charge you for the diagnostic?
This is getting more confusing as I go. Diagnostics say the DDM is bad. But I can't find a part number for a DDM. In digging into the service manual it looks like the DDM is actually part of the window regulator. (see the pics) Can anyone confirm that is the case? You have to buy a new window regulator in order to get the DDM? From the Service Manual Drivers Side Door Panel Window Regulator Kit
Tony pop your inside button off and disconnect it and add 12 volts to the blue wire(I think) and see if the lock in the B Pillar works,if not that would be your problem..Maybe?
May I ask - what did they charge you for the diagnostic?
They charged me $120 for the diagnostic scan. They did confirm a bad DDM, but as I mentioned before that DDM is part of the window regulator. Cost $280 on Amazon. I went ahead and ordered it and pulled the old one out. Less than 1 hour with help from a YouTube video. Now if I can just get it all back together when the new part comes in. 😄
PS, this was the same window module the same dealership replaced 2 years ago when the window motor went bad. $800 then. Ouch!