LS2 runs hot, no leaks, no squeaks
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
LS2 runs hot, no leaks, no squeaks
I live in Arizona. Temps in the 110+ consistently. Daily driving to and from work, about 40 miles roundtrip. However, the car is running at 230*F fairly consistently, coolant temp.
What do I check next?
((edit))
2007 C6 3LT Z51 LS2
.
- Already emptied and refilled with fresh 50/50 dexcool
- Already cleaned debris out of radiator and condensor heat exchangers
- Nothing is leaking
- Coolant tank is full and remains full (overflow tank is right at the line)
What do I check next?
((edit))
2007 C6 3LT Z51 LS2
.
Last edited by mellojoe; 07-10-2018 at 06:13 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2017
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Posts: 3,031
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I have an LS3 and 230 is not that bad for down here with AC on in traffic, once I get moving it will settle down to 220, not unusual for these motors. Hell the red line doesn't start till 260 or so........lol.
#3
Racer
Did you flush it, use distilled water. I used some facet water n got algae in the system, no more city water for me.
also how is the drive , combo , only one type? Speeds etc
also how is the drive , combo , only one type? Speeds etc
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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I live in Arizona. Temps in the 110+ consistently. Daily driving to and from work, about 40 miles roundtrip. However, the car is running at 230*F fairly consistently, coolant temp.
What do I check next?
((edit))
2007 C6 3LT Z51 LS2
.
- Already emptied and refilled with fresh 50/50 dexcool
- Already cleaned debris out of radiator and condensor heat exchangers
- Nothing is leaking
- Coolant tank is full and remains full (overflow tank is right at the line)
What do I check next?
((edit))
2007 C6 3LT Z51 LS2
.
What is the oil temp?
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Drive is mostly highway, 75mph. Pockets of traffic that are 5 lanes of 30mph.
I can't find where I wrote down the Oil and Trans temps. And its currently haboob / dust-storm season here in Phoenix, so I'm carpooling with the wife in her SUV (i drive, she drinks coffee XD ) but that means I can't check on Oil and Trans temps right now. I could have swore I wrote them down ... I'm getting old.
#6
Oh, that's good to know. At least I'm not completely alone in this.
Did not flush. Just a drain and refill.
Drive is mostly highway, 75mph. Pockets of traffic that are 5 lanes of 30mph.
I've only owned the car about 4 months now. So this is my first summertime experience with her. Still, though, 230*F seems really high, especially as others on this site report fairly steady 190 to 210 max (I've searched threads for awhile, anything related to cooling systems).
I can't find where I wrote down the Oil and Trans temps. And its currently haboob / dust-storm season here in Phoenix, so I'm carpooling with the wife in her SUV (i drive, she drinks coffee XD ) but that means I can't check on Oil and Trans temps right now. I could have swore I wrote them down ... I'm getting old.
Did not flush. Just a drain and refill.
Drive is mostly highway, 75mph. Pockets of traffic that are 5 lanes of 30mph.
I've only owned the car about 4 months now. So this is my first summertime experience with her. Still, though, 230*F seems really high, especially as others on this site report fairly steady 190 to 210 max (I've searched threads for awhile, anything related to cooling systems).
I can't find where I wrote down the Oil and Trans temps. And its currently haboob / dust-storm season here in Phoenix, so I'm carpooling with the wife in her SUV (i drive, she drinks coffee XD ) but that means I can't check on Oil and Trans temps right now. I could have swore I wrote them down ... I'm getting old.
#8
Race Director
I wouldn't say 230 is normal. I'm in 110° traffic a lot here in Vegas and I've never seen anything over 220° and as soon as it hits that the fan speeds up and it starts cooling off.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
#11
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Port St. Lucie West Florida
Posts: 4,115
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I have an 07 LS2 and live in Florida . Usually driving around town it’s 200-210. When there is traffic it may climb to 220 but as soon as I start moving, it cools back down. I have 30k miles. It’s usually in the 90’s
Last edited by enventr; 07-11-2018 at 05:00 AM.
#12
Burning Brakes
1: 230* isn't that bad in 110* heat.
2: Don't change the thermostat, it's a waste of money.
3: You may want to do a full flush and fill and make 100% sure to get rid of all the air in your system. (My guess is that is your current issue)
4: How cold does it get there in the winter? You may even consider upping your water ratio. Maybe 60-40 or 70-30.
2: Don't change the thermostat, it's a waste of money.
3: You may want to do a full flush and fill and make 100% sure to get rid of all the air in your system. (My guess is that is your current issue)
4: How cold does it get there in the winter? You may even consider upping your water ratio. Maybe 60-40 or 70-30.
#13
Race Director
I've only owned the car about 4 months now. So this is my first summertime experience with her. Still, though, 230*F seems really high, especially as others on this site report fairly steady 190 to 210 max (I've searched threads for awhile, anything related to cooling systems).
If not that may be contributing to high op temps.
Been reported in AZ & TX due to excessive heat fan connector gets brittle, eventually breaking.
No fan cooling even if ECM's calling for it.
Carefully inspect wiring & connector to fan.
Make certain fan's working, if it isn't not an expensive or difficult repair, DIY even less.
The following users liked this post:
Yokesc5 (07-14-2018)
#14
Safety Car
While doing a Radiator Flush, I've heard you should do it backflow to really clean it, not just the drain and fill.
Anyone knows the method for backflow?
#15
So on heater cores, you remove the two lines to the heater core, and flush water through the core both ways, to flush out any rust partials that may be trapped in it.
As for the LS motors since they are all aluminum (including the heater core), the distilled water flush alone is resolve most of your problems. Trust is, when I do the distilled water flushes since replacing the T stat is part of the mix, will leave the T stat out of the distilled water flush, and the install it right before I go to add the new mixed dexcool at the end.
Now if I go to do a flush and the intial dexcool coming out of the system is a ***** show to begin with, then take some extra steps.
Step one is to pull the radiator hose off the bottom of the radiator, remove the T stat, as well the heater core lines, so I can break out the garden hose to start flushing the system that way to begin with, including reverse flowing through the heater core as well. Once I get clean that way, put the hose back on, break out the distilled water, and flush that way with the motor heat. Once the distilled water flush is coming out clean (may take a few distilled water flushed with running the motor cyles), then is time to install the T stat, make sure the system is buttoned up, fill with the Dexcool mix, then use vaccum on the tank to burp any air still in the system.
As for the opt problem, would day to say that there is either crap still in the system that was not flushed out, made the mistake not replacing the T stat at flush, still has air in the system,maybe even has a problem with the raditor fan not coming on, or just a ton of crap in the A/C heat exchange or radiator external passages that needs to be hosed out instead.
On the later, most of the time you can just spray water from the nose of the car/back of the raditor to flush debris out such, but somethings you can get a lot of debris between the A/C heat exchanger and the raditor, and you need to pull the heat exhanger forward to be able to garden hose out the debris that way instead.
#16
Racer
Did you check your fans for proper operation,get a factory manual.
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes, fan runs. I've verified that it runs and everytime I turn off the car, I can still hear it running for several minutes. Fan seems to be in good physical shape, too. No broken blades, etc.
#18
Racer
As others have suggested, flush it with distilled water, maybe go 30/70 water/coolant... may bring it down 5-10 degrees. FYI, mine in normal driving in summer here in PA & at DE beaches it's 210-215, with headers, when outside temp is >90 then gets to 220, 225 in stop-&-go traffic. You still should be ok, though...your coolant temp sender can also be the culprit & not recording temps perfectly.
#19
This may not be the problem what so ever, but do yourself a favor and check the electrical connector on the fan. It melts on the majority of C6's. I bought my C6 in Chandler last year and mine was melted causing my car to run hot because the fan wouldn't always run.
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mellojoe (07-18-2018)