VERY fortunate to have this issue manifest while under 90 day warranty period. Lottery ticket time.

Only concern is there're no codes, tech won't be able to do much given the state of techs these days.
Hopefully, dealer has a seasoned crackerjack C6 tech.
Otherwise issue is on record, which works to your advantage if it isn't rectified.

G/L & update.

 

I believe I read a few that had this problem found out it was the "ignition switch / start button" being bad that caused this issue.. The fact that it goes into accessory mode after shutting off may indicate the button as being the problem..Like mentioned above the ECM being bad was also mentioned as a possible cause...WW

 

IF going into ACC mode from run, puts the problem as either the starter switch, or the BCM.
Hence ECM does not control the modes of the car of off, ACC or Run mode, and would not cause the car to go into ACC mode from run mode.


The starter button is easy to pull from the bezel, as well apart to check its contact points and even solder joint on the board that may be the problem.

Let me check and should have photo of know to pull a starter switch apart, but if you button paint has wear, then may as well just replace it if you don't want to paint the rocker button to ghost it isntead. Hence got tired of replacing my starter and door switch buttons as the paint kept peeling/wearing off switch even if you looked too hard at them, so ended up pulling them apart to rubberized painting the starter and door button switches isntead.



Attachment 48342590

 

As for pulling the starter switch apart, just need to use small jewelers screw drivers middle both sides to force the housing outwards, and the two small sides of the rocker studs will unlock from the house to the front face rocker will pull straight outwards. IN side the rocker cover will be a toggle piece with some spring, and under it will be the board that you can pull out the housing case. So board contacts get checked on the toggle piece and board, board gets checked for cold solder joints, and to put the rocker back together, postion the toggle piece correctly, make sure that springs are in correctly, and push the rocker cover straight in to lock is middle side tabs back in the case.

If it not the starter button, nor the wires and connectors from the switch to the BCM, then could be a cold solder joint on the BCM board that needs to be resolder isntead. Hence BCM board is easy to pull from the BCM case, and not all the hard to go through the board to clean and look for cold solder joints that may need to be re-solders. This saves you from having to replace the BCM, then flash it with SPS, which ends up being hundreds of dollars instead.

As for new starter button if that the only problem, they only go for around $30 if you don't want to have to tear yours apart to clean and fix it instead.
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-ignition-switch-push-button-2005-2012.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=p aid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_goog le_pla&adpos=1o3&scid=scplp25-258014-1&sc_intid=25-258014-1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxKO0t8Xy3AIV1bbACh1h fAbVEAQYAyABEgIwCvD_BwE

 

 

Myself, after I replace the second starter button and it started to flake the paint off in about a year as well, and thats when I just pull the switch apart to just ghost paint the front rocker cover with rubberized paint isntead. The LED still shine through for Run and ACC mode, but the main green glowing light for the main button does not.

I bring this up since the starter buttons, and even the door buttons that paint chips off too are pretty cheap right now, and may be wise to pick a set up for replacements down the line if you want the OEM looking starter button to replace when the paint starts to chip off the replacements as well.

 

Mine shut off while driving four times one day and turned out it was a loose ground from the starter. Tightened it back up and never had an issue again.

 

Not making sense, since the terminals to the starter solenoid are all positive wires, and the ground of the starter is it bolted to the bell housing instead.

Hence top bolt with single wire is solenoid positive to starter motor, the bottom terminal with nut is the two connectors is the tie in point of the positive battery and alternator wires, and the round push in connector is the start trigger wire to the solenoid. The only ground point you have in the below photo is the bolt to the engine blockabove the starter, which is the ground from the battery cable and wiring harnness to the engine block.




Now if the bottom terminal nut of the starter solenoid is loose, then that would cause problems with the charge from the alternator to the battery, and the battery not charging to cause battery low voltage problems isntead. Same goes for the engine block bolt ground point as well.

 

The ground bolt to the block from the starter was loose and kept wiggling around, then would shut the car off. Tightened it back up and no more issues.