Supercharging
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 7,090
Likes: 1,546
From: Florida
2006 to 2013; better range is 2008 to 2013.
2005 can be done but because of its unique (E40) ECM, the tuning will be more difficult and you'll need to work around certain sensors on LS2s.
2005 can be done but because of its unique (E40) ECM, the tuning will be more difficult and you'll need to work around certain sensors on LS2s.
Last edited by BlindSpot; Sep 1, 2018 at 08:21 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
2006 and up.
Hence 2005 had a weaker differential, and when you looking at 600 Plus HP that the LS motor is going to make with a S/C the stronger the diff, the better off you are.
Hence on the 2006 diff and upwards, ribs where added inside the differ to strengthen the case to begin with.
So on the weaker 2005 diff, you can put enough pressure on the pinion gear against the ring gear that is causes the case to crack the case apart with enough traction on lauch.
As for the later diffs, you still not out of the woods, since you get into wheel hop conditions where the tires is spinning, and the bites, it too can put enough pressure on the diff to crack the case as well.
As for types of super chargers, you have the TVS root types that puts the motor at max torque right off throttle, and then the centrifugal type S/Cs that give more of a mid to high range increase power hit isntead. For street driving/road course work where you are grunting the motor out of a corner, the TVS-23 is the better choice since you are already on boost/torque from idle up. For drag/rolling racing type use where you are going to be playing rev ranger with the motor for that type of use, then the centrifugal type S/Cs would be better isntead.
As for top end power that some will say that the centrifugal will produce more than a TVS blower , with the TVS2675 on the market, it will hold it own against any centrifugal SC on the market for not only top end power that you want to throw at the LS motor, but will have higher HP , and torque from idle to mid-range RPMs as well.
As for LS2 or LS3, LS3 block is stronger, has more displacement, and since it has lower stock compression to start with, you can throw more Boost at the LS3 to produce more power safely instead. As for how much power on a stock motor, again all depends on the type of driving you are doing. If for road course work with say TVS 2300, about 650hp is all you want, since your going to be on boost for longer periods, and a hell of lot more of them in a short period. If for strip use with a centrifugal unit since you will only be on boost for a couple of seconds, and not over and over again within a min, then draw the line about 750hp on a stock motor.
Also to add, if you are planing on anything over 550hp with S/C at the crank, either convert the car over to E85, or add in a meth kit.
One last thing, and before you strap in a S/C to a vet, work from the tires inwards, back towards the motor, so the car is ready for the added power.
Hence 2005 had a weaker differential, and when you looking at 600 Plus HP that the LS motor is going to make with a S/C the stronger the diff, the better off you are.
Hence on the 2006 diff and upwards, ribs where added inside the differ to strengthen the case to begin with.
So on the weaker 2005 diff, you can put enough pressure on the pinion gear against the ring gear that is causes the case to crack the case apart with enough traction on lauch.
As for the later diffs, you still not out of the woods, since you get into wheel hop conditions where the tires is spinning, and the bites, it too can put enough pressure on the diff to crack the case as well.
As for types of super chargers, you have the TVS root types that puts the motor at max torque right off throttle, and then the centrifugal type S/Cs that give more of a mid to high range increase power hit isntead. For street driving/road course work where you are grunting the motor out of a corner, the TVS-23 is the better choice since you are already on boost/torque from idle up. For drag/rolling racing type use where you are going to be playing rev ranger with the motor for that type of use, then the centrifugal type S/Cs would be better isntead.
As for top end power that some will say that the centrifugal will produce more than a TVS blower , with the TVS2675 on the market, it will hold it own against any centrifugal SC on the market for not only top end power that you want to throw at the LS motor, but will have higher HP , and torque from idle to mid-range RPMs as well.
As for LS2 or LS3, LS3 block is stronger, has more displacement, and since it has lower stock compression to start with, you can throw more Boost at the LS3 to produce more power safely instead. As for how much power on a stock motor, again all depends on the type of driving you are doing. If for road course work with say TVS 2300, about 650hp is all you want, since your going to be on boost for longer periods, and a hell of lot more of them in a short period. If for strip use with a centrifugal unit since you will only be on boost for a couple of seconds, and not over and over again within a min, then draw the line about 750hp on a stock motor.
Also to add, if you are planing on anything over 550hp with S/C at the crank, either convert the car over to E85, or add in a meth kit.
One last thing, and before you strap in a S/C to a vet, work from the tires inwards, back towards the motor, so the car is ready for the added power.
Last edited by Dano523; Sep 2, 2018 at 08:06 AM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 779
Tires in-ward is great advice, I think the idea of a blown vette sounds better in theory to most, when you actually have one and realize all the other systems that need to be highly modified for best relatively safe results the money sure does jump out of your wallet real quick like.....cooling that bad boy down....that's gonna cost a few extra G's....fuel system.....well sky's the limit on that, but easily another few G's on the low end......you start getting into forging the bottom end.....$$$$......ask me how I know lol....I have a boosted ZO6 so the solutions to my problems are a little more in depth and even more extra G's............but I believe the post earlier answered your question best. "What would be the best 2000's vette to SC"......."ALL OF THEM" is correct.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,409
Likes: 129
From: Fairview Heights IL
Tires in-ward is great advice, I think the idea of a blown vette sounds better in theory to most, when you actually have one and realize all the other systems that need to be highly modified for best relatively safe results the money sure does jump out of your wallet real quick like.....cooling that bad boy down....that's gonna cost a few extra G's....fuel system.....well sky's the limit on that, but easily another few G's on the low end......you start getting into forging the bottom end.....$$$$......ask me how I know lol....I have a boosted ZO6 so the solutions to my problems are a little more in depth and even more extra G's............but I believe the post earlier answered your question best. "What would be the best 2000's vette to SC"......."ALL OF THEM" is correct.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 779
thats what happened with the guy who had these, realized no way those would support his F1X, needs the 1700’s also, I think they installed them for one test to confirm so basically brand new
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 163
From: Concord NC
2006 and up.
Hence 2005 had a weaker differential, and when you looking at 600 Plus HP that the LS motor is going to make with a S/C the stronger the diff, the better off you are.
Hence on the 2006 diff and upwards, ribs where added inside the differ to strengthen the case to begin with.
So on the weaker 2005 diff, you can put enough pressure on the pinion gear against the ring gear that is causes the case to crack the case apart with enough traction on lauch.
As for the later diffs, you still not out of the woods, since you get into wheel hop conditions where the tires is spinning, and the bites, it too can put enough pressure on the diff to crack the case as well.
As for types of super chargers, you have the TVS root types that puts the motor at max torque right off throttle, and then the centrifugal type S/Cs that give more of a mid to high range increase power hit isntead. For street driving/road course work where you are grunting the motor out of a corner, the TVS-23 is the better choice since you are already on boost/torque from idle up. For drag/rolling racing type use where you are going to be playing rev ranger with the motor for that type of use, then the centrifugal type S/Cs would be better isntead.
As for top end power that some will say that the centrifugal will produce more than a TVS blower , with the TVS2675 on the market, it will hold it own against any centrifugal SC on the market for not only top end power that you want to throw at the LS motor, but will have higher HP , and torque from idle to mid-range RPMs as well.
As for LS2 or LS3, LS3 block is stronger, has more displacement, and since it has lower stock compression to start with, you can throw more Boost at the LS3 to produce more power safely instead. As for how much power on a stock motor, again all depends on the type of driving you are doing. If for road course work with say TVS 2300, about 650hp is all you want, since your going to be on boost for longer periods, and a hell of lot more of them in a short period. If for strip use with a centrifugal unit since you will only be on boost for a couple of seconds, and not over and over again within a min, then draw the line about 750hp on a stock motor.
Also to add, if you are planing on anything over 550hp with S/C at the crank, either convert the car over to E85, or add in a meth kit.
One last thing, and before you strap in a S/C to a vet, work from the tires inwards, back towards the motor, so the car is ready for the added power.
Hence 2005 had a weaker differential, and when you looking at 600 Plus HP that the LS motor is going to make with a S/C the stronger the diff, the better off you are.
Hence on the 2006 diff and upwards, ribs where added inside the differ to strengthen the case to begin with.
So on the weaker 2005 diff, you can put enough pressure on the pinion gear against the ring gear that is causes the case to crack the case apart with enough traction on lauch.
As for the later diffs, you still not out of the woods, since you get into wheel hop conditions where the tires is spinning, and the bites, it too can put enough pressure on the diff to crack the case as well.
As for types of super chargers, you have the TVS root types that puts the motor at max torque right off throttle, and then the centrifugal type S/Cs that give more of a mid to high range increase power hit isntead. For street driving/road course work where you are grunting the motor out of a corner, the TVS-23 is the better choice since you are already on boost/torque from idle up. For drag/rolling racing type use where you are going to be playing rev ranger with the motor for that type of use, then the centrifugal type S/Cs would be better isntead.
As for top end power that some will say that the centrifugal will produce more than a TVS blower , with the TVS2675 on the market, it will hold it own against any centrifugal SC on the market for not only top end power that you want to throw at the LS motor, but will have higher HP , and torque from idle to mid-range RPMs as well.
As for LS2 or LS3, LS3 block is stronger, has more displacement, and since it has lower stock compression to start with, you can throw more Boost at the LS3 to produce more power safely instead. As for how much power on a stock motor, again all depends on the type of driving you are doing. If for road course work with say TVS 2300, about 650hp is all you want, since your going to be on boost for longer periods, and a hell of lot more of them in a short period. If for strip use with a centrifugal unit since you will only be on boost for a couple of seconds, and not over and over again within a min, then draw the line about 750hp on a stock motor.
Also to add, if you are planing on anything over 550hp with S/C at the crank, either convert the car over to E85, or add in a meth kit.
One last thing, and before you strap in a S/C to a vet, work from the tires inwards, back towards the motor, so the car is ready for the added power.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 779
Last edited by 73DBG; Sep 6, 2018 at 02:08 AM. Reason: Sp
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 7,090
Likes: 1,546
From: Florida
I do not agree with this. FI mods can go from mild to wild. A small A&A (V3 Si-Trim) kit on an LS3, tuned well, can produce 550-570 hp at a modest 6 lb. boost. That's what I did, and I drove it around Phoenix in the dead of summer (as high as 115* ambient air temps) and never saw more than 215* with a stock cooling system. The only change was a 160* Tstat and tweaking the fan in the tune. I did the install and the tune, learned how to get the fan correct and cooling was not an issue. It's a completely different story if the goal is 700 hp to 1200 hp and beyond and trying to drive that around on the street. Without understanding the OP's end goal, this blanket statement isn't accurate.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 779
My apologies, let me make the statement more accurate.....Almost all F/I set-ups will experience cooling issues(except for maybe one guys) and I'm glad to hear his blower set up is cooling effectively with a completely stock cooling system. I'm not really sure how the 160 thermostat plays in to helping with cooling? Also I'd suggest you do some research on this matter, don't take my statements as fact without comparing it to others. A simple search on the forum for "cooling issues" will provide you with tons of reading material, and if you do this search I'd love to know how many threads you find where people say "My F/I build has completely stock cooling system" and it works perfectly, or "Only thing changed for cooling purposes was the fan settings and 160 thermostat" and it works perfectly. Vs. "Here's specifically what I did to help with coolant temps.....list of mods/upgrades" "These were my idle temps in traffic before the changes vs after the changes/upgrades.