When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks for the great video on the starter solenoid and how it works. I can't get out to the shop now because it's raining BIG TIME but as I was out there last night I noticed this in the fuse box in the engine compartment. If you notice I have two relays that seem to have a brown tint or my have been over heated. Could this be the cause? Are these relays starter related?
The burnt relay next to the post is the fuel pump relay, and although is still working, would swap that 8866 out with the wiper pump relay (since you never use the wipers isntead. Hell, would pull the crank relay in the fuse box, and swap it out with another 8864 that is not being use much like the rear defogger #40.
The first is on the bottom side of the BCM (run crank and show as a dash line) and the other is 43 in the engine fuse box. Relay in the engine fuse box 42 looks fine (at least not burnt), but would still pull the upper fuse box off to just give the lower blocks a check to make sure that the corresponding pin on the lower block did not get pushed down when the upper fuse block was pulled and re-installed during the lower beam TBS jumper wire install.
Thanks Dano! I'll swap out that relay next to the post ASAP as I don't need a fuel pump problem too. But the one next to it (#46) is called a "headlamp washer". Is that the one you talking about? Heck I didn't even know that the C6 had that option anyhow. I'll be sure to pick up a relay at the dealership if they carry them knowing it's factory instead of going to the local parts house and getting a possible cheap Chinese knock off.
Would swap it out with 34 (horn) since I never us the horn anyways, but 36 or 46 would be good future swaps for the fuel pump relay for swaps later on if the fuel pump relay starts to look like it getting burnt up down the road again and need to do more swaps.
Hence to test the used ones, just stick them in 34 one at a time and see if the horn will honk.
To add, the fuse box/relay check are just checks to make sure that the car is sending power to the A terminal of the starter solenoid in the first place to fire it (hence test light from ground, to it, to see if it has power to begin with). If the starter solenoid termite A is getting power when the car is trying to start the car, then it's the starter solenoid that needs to be replaced for $25 instead.
Hi Dano,
Sorry about getting back to you so late on this but just have had a full plate on top of more full plates. I finally got out to the shop and swapped the relays around and all's well as I've been driving it around and have started it multiple times. What's the strange part, I've had no starting button issues as of the last few days. Why? I don't have a clue. But I did buy that 5 pack of relays you told me about.(Pretty darn cheap for five of them) and when I get those I'll just throw the two that looked burnt and file 13 them and throw them in the FUBR box. Again thank you for all your help and also everyone else that has chimed in on this problem.
Not sure I've got the problem fixed by no means but it sure has stopped it for the time being!
I just wrote a post on this a moment ago. I have an 08 base vert I purchased new and currently have around 130K on it. I have experienced the same problem and used the same remedy since the car was new. I attribute the problem to a computer glitch. I have also experienced the inability to open the trunk lid and had to put the car in accessory mode to overcome the problem. If the problem becomes repetitive I do the old computer reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a short time, which seems to solve the problem for a while.
I just wrote a post on this a moment ago. I have an 08 base vert I purchased new and currently have around 130K on it. I have experienced the same problem and used the same remedy since the car was new. I attribute the problem to a computer glitch. I have also experienced the inability to open the trunk lid and had to put the car in accessory mode to overcome the problem. If the problem becomes repetitive I do the old computer reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a short time, which seems to solve the problem for a while.
Being me, I would disconnect the battery, pull the BCM connectors to give them all a good cleaning, touch of dielectric grease, and reconnect the connectors.
From there, would pull the starter button to give its connector a quick cleaning, and pull the Starter button apart to give it a good internal cleaning as well.
The face toggle plate of the starter button pulls forward off the housing by putting outwards pressure on both side middle of the outer case at the same time, to allow the toggle side tabs to clear the housing slots for them. Once you have the front toggle off, you have the spring and metal internal rocker piece, as well the its contact points to the board as well. If pulling the starter button apart is not up you alley, then just replace it since the paint on it only last a few years until it chips away anyways.
I have a 2005 C-6 Z51 with close to 70K and am having a starter button issue.
What is happening at times, when I hit the starter button and nothing happens. Then I'll hit the accessory and then hit the starter button again she'll fire right up. It has done this few times and you never know when it's going to do it. I've searched the forums knowing this might be a common problem but now of course I can't find a thing. I never have been stranded as it seems when I mess with it a few times it always seems to start up right after going from start to ignition and the to start again.
But before I just replace the switch and not knowing what's causing this I'm asking you fellow C6 guru's for some help on this. I'm normally in the C-4 forums as I have two low mileage C4's (a drop-top and coupe) but recently bought this beautiful Le Mans C-6.
I have a 2005 C-6 Z51 with 67,000 miles weekend/holiday driver that does EXACTLY the same thing. (Random times when I press the starter button the check engine light comes on and I get nothing) I have been able to do a "soft reboot" sometimes by holding down the start button and it seems to reset everything. Sometimes that doesn't work and I have to take the battery cables off, tough them together and immediately put them back on and the car 100% of time will then start right up. I have had it at my dealership and they said it was the battery. I told them it wasn't but they insisted on replacing it so I paid for a new battery and within a month it did it again. I took it back and they suggest maybe I should replace the entire steering column! I hardly ever drive this car as I bought it new and will most likely not budget to buy another one. Just frustrating that every time I do drive it I have to wonder if it is going to start or am I going to have to lift the hood and perform my "work around". Not the experience I would like out of my car that otherwise I love so much.
[QUOTE=Dano523;1598091688]Elvismerle , are you getting the "service column lock" in the DIC problem?
Thanks for your reply. I just joined this forum yesterday so I am trying to learn all of the lingo as quickly as I can. I get the symbol that looks like a little engine which I believe to be the check engine light. It stays illuminated and disappears after I take the battery cables off and put them back on. I have never noticed my steering column to be locked. I did pay attention today and when I push the starter button I do hear the noise during the little delay from the time the button is pushed until the starter engages. It appears this may be soothing to do with the column lock? This has been happening for the last 3 or 4 years but I drive it so seldom that I have always just been content to perform the battery cable work around every 3 or 4 months it happens.
Unfortunately in my state we have to get the emission inspection done each year to renew our license. The inspection station says I have to drive my car approximately 50 miles after I disconnect the battery cables before the computer can get an accurate reading. Looks like no more short drives to work. I need to road trip!
Appreciate any input. This is the 3rd Corvette I have owned and I love them.
Had same issue, mine was starter solenoid had melted, probably due to my headers.Put a whole new starter on instead of just the solenoid. Not worth the price difference, new starter was $99 on Rock auto and solenoid was about $29.
Last edited by mcandrew67; Oct 3, 2018 at 07:20 AM.
Appreciate the input. I ordered the Steering Lock Column Lock Bypass. Some it seems think that fixed the problem. If not I will look at the solenoid next. Thanks everyone!
