2005 Harmonic balancer
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 23
Likes: 5
2005 Harmonic balancer
Hi guys,
I bought a 2005 corvette this past Thursday. I’ve done some reading about this common problem and I’ve noticed my belts chirp for about 20 minutes and then stop after the car is warmed up. My harmonic balancer does wobble, but from my understanding they all do. I am wondering if mine is shot or not.
Heres a video for reference:
I bought a 2005 corvette this past Thursday. I’ve done some reading about this common problem and I’ve noticed my belts chirp for about 20 minutes and then stop after the car is warmed up. My harmonic balancer does wobble, but from my understanding they all do. I am wondering if mine is shot or not.
Heres a video for reference:
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,949
Likes: 134
From: middle of nowhere WI
Hi guys,
I bought a 2005 corvette this past Thursday. I’ve done some reading about this common problem and I’ve noticed my belts chirp for about 20 minutes and then stop after the car is warmed up. My harmonic balancer does wobble, but from my understanding they all do. I am wondering if mine is shot or not.
I bought a 2005 corvette this past Thursday. I’ve done some reading about this common problem and I’ve noticed my belts chirp for about 20 minutes and then stop after the car is warmed up. My harmonic balancer does wobble, but from my understanding they all do. I am wondering if mine is shot or not.
I don't think that they all do, but it seems like it's an issue on the LS2/LS3 motors. My balancer wobbled and the belts squeaked. A replacement set of belts was only a temporary fix, so I had the one on my '07 replaced at an independent corvette shop. No more wobble, no more squeal...
Some here will adamantly tell you that the balancer is supposed to wobble
... Some will say to run it that way... I say if you can get it replaced, do it. Just don't use another GM part, they're known to fail. There are several acceptable replacements out there. If you're not running a supercharger, you'll probably be best off to run the standard size, not the smaller one. If you're going to change the cam in the motor, the perfect time to do it is when you swap out the balancer...Costs will vary depending on where you are and who does it, mine was $900 total, parts (ATI balancer, new bolt, new seal, new belts) and about 4 hours labor. The shop I used has done a lot of them!!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,397
Likes: 22
From: Rockledge Florida
St. Jude Donor '07 thru '14, '24
My 2005 would make a noise for about 10 or 15 minutes after start, and I could see a little wobble so I decided to replace the damper it with an ATI balancer, new seals, belts, bolt, and also replaced the water pump (66,000 Miles).
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 4,362
From: Chirper Island
Is there any downside to letting it chirp as long as the belt doesn't fail? Besides the obvious annoying noise? Or is this a replacement so when you are sitting at a light you don't feel embarrassed because your car sounds horrible?
None of mine have ever failed or even made any noise (knock-wood). That's 320,000 miles (two cars). The one I just bought had it replaced last year (due to noise).
None of mine have ever failed or even made any noise (knock-wood). That's 320,000 miles (two cars). The one I just bought had it replaced last year (due to noise).
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 664
Likes: 320
From: Houston, Texas
You need to replace it, this is a known issue with our LS2's, I also have an 05, did the replacement myself, it wasn't that hard just had to pull the radiator and that gives you room.
Bought mine from Oreily's for ~ $215 and the ARP bolt and flywheel lock on Ebay for ~ $75, it's a good time to replace the belt and idler pulleys also. Don't let it get so bad that it throws the outer pulley and does a lot more damage.
JMO
Bought mine from Oreily's for ~ $215 and the ARP bolt and flywheel lock on Ebay for ~ $75, it's a good time to replace the belt and idler pulleys also. Don't let it get so bad that it throws the outer pulley and does a lot more damage.
JMO
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 23
Likes: 5
You need to replace it, this is a known issue with our LS2's, I also have an 05, did the replacement myself, it wasn't that hard just had to pull the radiator and that gives you room.
Bought mine from Oreily's for ~ $215 and the ARP bolt and flywheel lock on Ebay for ~ $75, it's a good time to replace the belt and idler pulleys also. Don't let it get so bad that it throws the outer pulley and does a lot more damage.
JMO
Bought mine from Oreily's for ~ $215 and the ARP bolt and flywheel lock on Ebay for ~ $75, it's a good time to replace the belt and idler pulleys also. Don't let it get so bad that it throws the outer pulley and does a lot more damage.
JMO
You didn’t have to drop the steering rack or anything like that?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 5,463
Likes: 1,138
From: Chino CA
You have to move the steering rack out of the way. You cannot get the HB bolt out with the rack bolted up. I just unbolted it and moved it to the side. I did not remove my radiator.
Last edited by HBsurfer; Oct 13, 2018 at 11:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 23
Likes: 5
Is there any downside to letting it chirp as long as the belt doesn't fail? Besides the obvious annoying noise? Or is this a replacement so when you are sitting at a light you don't feel embarrassed because your car sounds horrible?
None of mine have ever failed or even made any noise (knock-wood). That's 320,000 miles (two cars). The one I just bought had it replaced last year (due to noise).
None of mine have ever failed or even made any noise (knock-wood). That's 320,000 miles (two cars). The one I just bought had it replaced last year (due to noise).
Nobody has said how how long they let it go before it failed on them.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 664
Likes: 320
From: Houston, Texas
You can't get to the HB without moving the rack - didn't mention it because that is a known. I was having to replace not only the HB but also the pressure hose of the power steering pump and while there threw another water pump on so I dropped the front plastic off (this is very easy!), pulled the lower radiator bracket and radiator which gives you full access to front of the engine. Had to lower the engine cradle 1/2" or so - there is a good write up on this forum for this. Had to loosen my right bank headers to be able to drop the starter to get the flywheel lock on for torquing the ARP bolt <<<< that was the hardest part - I really thought something was going to snap before I got my torque wrench to pop.........
As far as driving it with a chirp that goes away - I don't see a problem with that - my belt chirp was constant and actually getting worse - the inner rubber that connected the inner & outer sections of HB was very dry rotted and slowly separating, I didn't have a choice.
As far as driving it with a chirp that goes away - I don't see a problem with that - my belt chirp was constant and actually getting worse - the inner rubber that connected the inner & outer sections of HB was very dry rotted and slowly separating, I didn't have a choice.
Last edited by BMF_C6; Oct 14, 2018 at 09:30 AM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 664
Likes: 320
From: Houston, Texas
Just wondering if it’s nessesary to change immediately. I’d hate to have it go and do further damage. I have one more day of driving it before I store it for winter and will likely replace it come spring. I’m just not sure if mine is moving a lot or with in tolerance.
Nobody has said how how long they let it go before it failed on them.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 60
From: Springfield IL
I've seen no difference in failure rates between the gen 3 and gen 4's. I've replaced a dozen or more alone. Always use ATI pulleys and normally pin the crank at the same time in case the customer decides to boost it later down the line.