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While preparing my car for winter storage, I noticed the rear deck lid doesn’t full seal along the pillar on the passenger side. After much troubleshooting, I determined the struts are bad. When the deck is fully opened, the space/gap on the drivers side is 5-1/2 inches, the passenger side is 6-1/4. While looking at the struts, I see they have clips, I’m assuming for the rear defroster. On the top of the struts, there is a release button to disconnect the clip. On the bottom of the strut, there is no release to disconnect the clip.
Has anyone replaced their struts that can offer assistance? Gap when lid is closed and latched Drivers side height (hatch fully opened) Passenger side height (hatch fully opened)
Last edited by Susan Johnson; Nov 4, 2018 at 06:08 PM.
FOLLOW UP #2: The problem I was having turned out to NOT be the struts. One of my hinges was bent. Don't know what caused this as I baby this car. Took it to the dealer and they replacedthe hinges and now everything lines up perfectly! Total cost was $170 (parts AND labor).
I’m putting this out there in case this problem should happen to anyone else. Thanks everyone for all your help!
I've replaced the hood struts, but not the hatch. I took a look and mine has clips at the ball & socket on both ends. The lower is under a rubber boot. Both ends also have connectors for the defroster.
At the bottom is a rubber boot. Slide it up. Unplug the defroster wires top and bottom by pulling gently. Using a small screw driver or the point of a pocket knife pop the metal clip at the very ends of the pistons so they can be removed from the ball socket. Remove the piston. The new ones go in the reverse.
DO THEM ONE AT A TIME.
And remember that the hatch is really, really heavy. Prevent injuries, have someone help by holding the hatch up when you remove the pistons. Don't fool yourself and think you're going to prop it it up with a broomstick or 2x4. You yank on a piston and guaranteed the prop falls. Only thing stopping the hatch at the point is your neck. Be smart.
I lifted the boots on the bottoms of the struts. No problem there. I see that there is a push-button release on the top defroster wires, but not in the bottom ones. How to I release the bottom wires without the push-button release?
I lifted the boots on the bottoms of the struts. No problem there. I see that there is a push-button release on the top defroster wires, but not in the bottom ones. How to I release the bottom wires without the push-button release?
Lift up on the bottom defroster connector using a small flat screwdriver. It will slide off the metal defroster tab.
As mentioned, use a prop stick to hold up the hatch to replace the struts.
Once old struts are removed, If required, you may need to unscrew the upper and lower plastic ends of the old struts, slip the defroster male connector tabs off, and re-install on the new struts, then replace the plastic strut ends for the new struts.
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FOLLOW-UP: I replaced the struts, but apparently I was wrong. The deck lid still does not sit flush (see original post). I know it's NOT the rubber bumpers on the deck as you can see the alignment is out before the lid is closed (about 10" from latching).
Does anyone one have any insight on what's happening / causing this issue?
Have you checked the hinges on the halo? The hatch seems pretty straight forwards, 4 rubber bumpers, the 2 attachment point for the struts, 2 hinges, and 1 latch is pretty much everything.
All the weather seal on the hatch where it meets the seal on the halo in place?
Check the alignment all around. The hatch bumpers possibly can have the opposite effect. ie: The driver back can raise or lower the passenger front etc.
If that doesn't do anything, you may want to look at the hatch hinges. They may have shifted slightly over the years.
My hatch doesn't exactly sit flush with the body panels all around either. They are not far off, but I have adjusted the bumpers and actually raised the quarter panel height slightly by removing the screws and adding rubber spacers between the panel and the hatch tub sides. There is a slight bit of adjustment available in that area.
Have you checked the hinges on the halo? The hatch seems pretty straight forwards, 4 rubber bumpers, the 2 attachment point for the struts, 2 hinges, and 1 latch is pretty much everything.
All the weather seal on the hatch where it meets the seal on the halo in place?
What exactly ami I looking for on the hinges? All bolts are tight and there doesn’t appear to be any ‘wear’ marks where a hinge may have shifted (?)
I have adjusted the bumpers and actually raised the quarter panel height slightly by removing the screws and adding rubber spacers between the panel and the hatch tub sides. There is a slight bit of adjustment available in that area.
Can’t be the bumpers as you can see the alignment is out while the deck is opened (approx 10” from being fully closed).
Can’t be the bumpers as you can see the alignment is out while the deck is opened (approx 10” from being fully closed).
I can see your point on that one. Just thinking out loud, but is it possible that the strut is just a bit longer on that side? The plastic ends on the struts are put on the threaded portion of the strut rod, so there may be some movement to shorten them up by a tiny bit on both ends by screwing in those ends. I made sure that the ends were bottomed out before putting the struts on. If there is a big difference, the strut rod thread end can be cut shorter using a hacksaw.
That may sound drastic, but aftermarket struts, or even OEM replacements may be a bit longer after the initial years.
FOLLOW UP #2: The problem I was having turned out to NOT be the struts. One of my hinges was bent. Don't know what caused this as I baby this car. Took it to the dealer and they replacedthe hinges and now everything lines up perfectly! Total cost was $170 (parts AND labor).
I’m putting this out there in case this problem should happen to anyone else. Thanks everyone for all your help!
Last edited by Susan Johnson; Nov 16, 2018 at 07:37 PM.
Maybe a gust of wind, I don’t know for sure (?). Even the dealer was at a loss, he’s never seen this happen before. I do take the car to shows and of course the deck lid is open. I can’t see any one touching the car with such force to bent the hinge, most people are very respectable. I’ve never forced the lid closed, and no one has acces to the car but me.
The hinges are thin and light, so who knows.
At the bottom is a rubber boot. Slide it up. Unplug the defroster wires top and bottom by pulling gently. Using a small screw driver or the point of a pocket knife pop the metal clip at the very ends of the pistons so they can be removed from the ball socket. Remove the piston. The new ones go in the reverse.
DO THEM ONE AT A TIME.
And remember that the hatch is really, really heavy. Prevent injuries, have someone help by holding the hatch up when you remove the pistons. Don't fool yourself and think you're going to prop it it up with a broomstick or 2x4. You yank on a piston and guaranteed the prop falls. Only thing stopping the hatch at the point is your neck. Be smart.
This sounds eerily familiar to what I did to myself on several occasions replacing struts :-)
Replacing Rear deck struts
