Flitemdic

I've read the threads, watched the videos, and now I need suggestions from the collective group knowledge.

Got the assembly out of the car, noticed one thing right away. Picture A shows the black retainers over the clear lens tabs. No one comments about how to get those tabs out from under the clip. I thought they would gently flex- right up until I broke one.

Then, everyone talks about heating things up to make the seal pliable. I heated at 210 for 15 minutes and although the seal flakes off, I can't even get a thin knife underneath the lens to pry it up.

That's where I stopped. I could use the help of the group of any of you have tips or tricks. Thanks

BMF_C6

I used my heat gun (bought a cheap one at Harbor Freight), heat the tabs being very careful not to melt and with a gloved hand hold them until they harden back stiff.......don't worry about the broke ones......it truly don't understand WTF they are for anyways.......

I heated at 225 for 10-15 minutes but found that using the heat gun was the way to go, once you get a blade in you are golden.......this is not an easy thing to do and I swore I was going break it many times but just take your time and heat it and pull like a ****!!! just work your way around and finally the lens will come out......that is just half the battle!!!!

Now you have to get the rubber out of the groove - another good reason for the cheap heat gun.......get some large needle nose pliers and heat and work it so you can get it pinched in between and start rolling your pliers so that the rubber wraps around......heat carefully - the plastic will melt!!!! ---- just keep rolling and winding and getting all the old rubber out..........once all clean put the new rubber in mount your new lens.... I used painter tape to protect the lens and some more cheap clamps from Harbor Freight to clamp it all together...........then you can re-heat those worthless tabs and put them back the way they were.

Heat is your friend and your foe when separating, don't pick a hard corner to start.......there is one corner that has more showing than the others......just work it and get a blade in and start heating and prying.........you don't want to damage your light fixture but even on some areas that the channel may be a little flattened or roughed up you will be able to smooth it out with a file and sand paper when cleaning everything up getting ready to do you new install. Knowing that I was never going to do this again, I also used clear 100% silicone and sealed up around the outside also just to make sure there would be no moisture getting in!! I then used multi layers of blue painter tape and covered the lenses to protect them from any scratches during the installation.........only uncovering the lenses when I was 100% done.......

This is not for the faint of heart and was hard *** work but well worth it..........

Brian71

I would heat mine at 275-300 degrees for ten minutes. The tab you mentioned will bend a little if heated enough. I found you have to work in one area of the lens with a screwdriver. I had around 10 minutes then I had to put the lens in the oven.
It takes a lot of patience.
The tab that you broke can be put back on with a soldering gun.
R. Sebrings website has excellent step by step instructions.

Flitemdic

Thanks, guys! Off to harbor freight in the AM, and checking out those step by steps, too. Good tip on the tabs.

pewter99

I gave up on mine and gave it to my buddy to put in his powder coating oven....he baked it for like 30 min at 250 and then he worked at getting the lens off...I tried everything before giving up....apparently its hit or miss on difficulty.

They say to remove the studs on the bottom that mount the light in the car but I did that and then I had to make several adjustments to them after reinstalling as the lights sat to low and basically couldn't raise them high enough without adjusting those studs with a 4mm socket...also if those are out of adjustment your body gaps will be jacked up ...nowhere did I see this mentioned in any instructions unless I missed it but learn from my mistakes...

pewter99

I didn't need a heat gun to remove the adhesive from the channel just pry it up and use needle nose pliers it came out fairly easy...about 10 mins for each side.....

clamps....if you buy anything at Harbor Freight get the clamps....the little spring clips are worth ****...get the sliding ones you can squeeze the trigger to tighten....they work great

BMF_C6

Exactly the ones I was talking about ..... they are cheap like $3 each or so, so get 6 of them, they slide for the rough adjustment then you screw down the tops screw adjusting the pressure.

Dutch08

I did this myself and I was going to give you my advice, but this write up is perfect. I could not have a explained it better myself. My only suggestion is getting the new lens on can be a pain with the new sealant. I used 8 squeeze type clamps were I removed the plastic cover so the hard metal edge would grip the edge lip of the lens and base. About 1 minute after you get all the clamps on the new lens will be all the way down into the groove in the base, no effort required. I kept the clamps on overnight, and installed the lenses the next day.

I used these:

RLSebring

Do yourself a big favor and go here www.c6c7vette, look at lens replacement tab. I have a video for removing and reinstalling the lights and the best write for removing the lens from the housing. Literally 10's of thousands have did the job this way over the last 10 years I've been selling lens.

For those clear tabs... Use a pair of side cutters and clip them off so they are not in the way.

info@umnitza.com

here is a video that all our customers have used, heat guns do not work, anyone telling you to use a heat gun hasn't done enough of these to understand that.

We did discover that if you get the lenses off and start the process of the removal of the old sealant but leave it til the following down, it is easier once it completely cools off to remove it. OR alternatively, if you want to put it in a freezer, you can remove the sealant more easily.


Also, you can see some additional information here: