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The last couple of times I've driven on the interstate, i had some vibration in my steering wheel at around 70 mph. I've never felt before. It will vibrat for about 3 seconds, stop for about 3 seconds, then repeat. The first thought I had was tires and alignment. Checked my tires and they are still good. Haven't had alignment checked, but took it out on some other roads and drove similar speed with no vibrations. Any ideas?
I haven't done anything with it since I bought it a few months ago. It didn't vibrate when I drove the interstate until recently and it doesn't vibrate on other roads.
With the rotational speed of the tires, that's where I'd start. I'd find a shop that has the capacity to do those things for you and eliminate the tires (since it's probably the cheapest thing to do).
Wouldn't a balance issue affect it on all roads and not just the interstate?
Road surface can contribute to steering wheel vibration. I agree with others, get a good balance and go from there. The reason the 'shake' comes and goes is because your front tires are not exactly the same circumference. In a distance of a few hundred yards, one wheel can rotate 1/2 rotation less or more than the other. So slight imbalances in each wheel can cancel the other ..... or amplify it.
It depends what speed you're driving. I had the same exact condition you explained above, but it only happened on the interstate (also right around 70mph). Maybe it's because the highway is generally straight and smooth which allows one to be more in tune...and feel what's happening to the car.
Match mounting tires on wheels is a process where a tire's installed position on the wheel is specifically selected to help minimize the final combination's force variation and/or imbalance. One match mounting procedure aligns the tire's measured high point of radial force variation with the measured low point of the wheel's radial runout. The other simply aligns the tire's lightest spot with the wheel's heaviest spot. Original Equipment (OE) tire suppliers are required to mark the tire's "high point" while OE wheel manufacturers mark the wheel's "low point." This helps the vehicle manufacturer match mount combinations that maximize new car ride quality while reducing the amount of balancing weight.
We have found that the only way to accurately match mount replacement tires on used original or new aftermarket wheels is to use Hunter tire balancers which have the ability to measure wheel runout and tire force variations under load before the tire and wheel are installed on the vehicle. Using these machines, a colored dot might be positioned anywhere on the wheel relative to each wheel's runout measurement. In the end, the markers have little, if any, relevance when replacement tires are installed.
Match mounting refers to positioning the tire on the rim such that overall runout (and the road force number) is minimized. When I buy aftermarket rims, I always mount them on the car and check them for runout ( marking high and low spots) before I have tires mounted. I've even gone so far as to have brake rotors balanced too. They are big and heavy and can contribute to vibration issues.
Does the car sit a lot? How long between drives? I noticed mine does exactly what you're saying at about 70-75mph after I haven't driven it in awhile. I read on here, or maybe even in the owner's manual (don't quote me) that if it sits for too long the tires will get flat spots & they work themselves after the tires get up to temperature. I notice if I don't drive my GS for a couple weeks that's when I feel the pulsing vibration on the interstate.